Fox talas seals for older model
ade555
Posts: 216
Comments
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Which of the many seals?
The main dust seal will depend on stanchion diameter, there are lots of sellers on eBay for example once you know that.Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0 -
Wow, they're really old. You must have drunk a lot before buying them.
Mojo and TF Tuned will have seal kits.Transition Patrol - viewtopic.php?f=10017&t=130702350 -
RockmonkeySC wrote:Wow, they're really old. You must have drunk a lot before buying them.
Mojo and TF Tuned will have seal kits.
Nah done worse thing in pass, a bit of silly bid but to late now need to wait and see when they turn up. You never know it might be little gem0 -
Enter their serial number here
http://www.ridefox.com/help.php?m=bike&ref=topnav
it should come back with model and year of manufacture which will help.0 -
Dirtydog11 wrote:Enter their serial number here
http://www.ridefox.com/help.php?m=bike&ref=topnav
it should come back with model and year of manufacture which will help.
Thanks for link, forks still not here so can't check just yet0 -
Forks have arrived, from quick look they don't look bad but then I had a closer look at the side where you put air in and looks like there is a bit of ware at the front of the stanchion just above wiper seals and that side is completely dry, they leak oil from the right hand side around seals again, would post image but can't get the lower off :shock:
Is it just let air out, undo lower bolts, tap the shafts in then pull apart? as is just not happening0 -
Wiper seals won't be a problem, if you buy the new FOX ones from Mojo they will be the latest flangeless ones. Talas I air seals are NLS from what I remember.0
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Can't get to that stage just yet, can't remove lower, soon as I try to pull them apart the lock up in extended position.0
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lower come off now but oh dear stanchion are absolutely F.... :shock: on one side below seals, looks like they just run dry and plenty dirt got in destroying seals, foams and bushing.
Not sure now what to do with them, seller advertise as need refurbish and leaking oil, but I think they only good for scrap.
Option please0 -
Send them back or take it as a lesson in not bidding drunk.I don't do smileys.
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Parktools0 -
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This place will do replacement stanchions for around £60.00 each.. whether it would be worth it though?
http://regensuspension.co.uk/stanchion-wear/0 -
Not worth it!
Cheapest seals you can get, polish the worst of the marks with wet and dry (use it oiled) and rebuild them, the wear is below the seals so won't damage them.Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0 -
What about the internal bushes, there are damaged on that side is well, I think they will make more damage to stanchions if I run them. If you seen them before they have some sort of material on inner side which some of it pealed off, anyone replaced them before?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fox-Forx-32mm ... GKWd1InBzA0 -
Either bodge them to last as long as possible or raise a Paypal complaint!Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0
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Well seller has refunded me and I can keep them. In all honesty a bit of surprise :shock:0
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That's a common problem with Fox forks of that age.
They're a terrible fork anyway so I wouldn't spend any money on them.Transition Patrol - viewtopic.php?f=10017&t=130702350 -
RockmonkeySC wrote:That's a common problem with Fox forks of that age.
They're a terrible fork anyway so I wouldn't spend any money on them.
I did found some review about them, your maybe right compare to today fork standards but are they that bad???
http://www.mtbr.com/cat/older-categorie ... 15crx.aspx0 -
I clean them up best I could, removed seals and oiled them to move stanchions up and down but they still feel very sticky, not sure if there is even point getting cheap set of seals like them to even try it
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Swift-F32-32m ... SwnDxUfF960 -
Little update
I striped them again as I just don't give up, I decided to strip talas side, reason been once I pulled or push the lower shaft felt sort of sticky, after removing talas I re-inserted empty stanchion in to lowers, moving them up and down felt smooth, I was thinking result, only I didn't notice about the IFP , missed that part completely in guide, I realized when I pulled the talas out with a loud pop sound. question is where can I find IFP tool? will ring local shops if they can recharge it maybe.
Looking on net my understanding is that the talas side can be inflated using needle but also stiffness is due to swollen seals.0 -
Anyone have any experience with the actual talas system? I know from other forums that some actually run them with out ifp inflated and they did prefer how the shock felt, today has been busy day sanding, feeling with laqure and more polishing to make them lot smoother, once seals will turn up will be able to mount and see, if they still leaking oil will be bin time.
Question about talas, first generation have rod with 2 little holes that goes to lower talas chamber, if I'm not mistaken in that chamber there is positive and negative side, on top cap I have travel adjustment but for some reason I can't drop travel they always extended to 125mm.
Any advice would be welcome.0 -
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New set of seals has been fitted can't compare swift to fox one so not sure but they work at least for now. Fork feels a bit stiff, when you sit on bike but once you push on them they sort of work, never be like new set but I will give them a try, still didn't figure out why the travel adjustment don't work, there a plenty guides on net but all for talas 2 which you need to set timing on them but can't find nothing for talas 1, pushed my bike geometry out but it feels good for me, maybe will try them to see how they work on ruff terain till I get hands on another set.0
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I managed to speak with Mojo who offered great help to get to bottom why I can't adjust travel, once I striped talas I missed placed or lost 2 ball bearings that goes on to the spiral shaft bit, with out them travel adjust rod just spins freely and always in full extended position, so they manage to find the correct size bearing and will post it.
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Well all sorted now, travel adjuster works again after fitting 2 ball bearings, I did lower forks to 110mm travel that way stanchion damage is below seals, damper works and when you adjust it actually makes difference, IFP chamber inflated to 150 psi and makes the forks lot more smooth to compress,you can remove seal form IFP chamber and have one big positive chamber but I decided to try them like they should be, you can inflate IFP using inflating needle just needs 2 pair of hands. Such a shame they have so much damage to stanchion other wise would be perfect for me. I did learn a lot how they work and what individual componten does and how it effects the fork.0