Bike chain or Derailleur problem

CARETAKER46

Hi ,
I have recently had a problem, now it is occurring regular when i start to ride my bike the chain is still on the Chain ring and cassette, but the when i pedal it just goes round like it is on a high gear where you going to ride the hill, but the bike wont move, as there is no pressure.

If i change the gear it is still the same problem, as you can pedal and the chain just keep going round , but the bike will not move.

I then have to have press the rear Derailleur and you can start riding your bike, as you can feel the pedal pressure. I noticed it happens when i start to ride the bike, and once you ride the bike it ok, as it will keep going. I had few occasion when i stopped near the give way or traffic light this problem occurred again, but not all the time.

So the chain is ok, but i do not know if it to do with the rear Derailleur.

Please confirm your thoughts

Bike is Mountain Bike, Specialised epic 2004 - M5

https://imageshack.com/i/plbn4hcmj

drlodge

Sounds to me like the freewheel is slipping, likely the pawls are getting stuck.

keef66

Is this a 2004 bike running the original chain and cassette?? If so, they are probably overdue to be replaced.

If the chain and cassette are new-ish, then as DRLodge suggests, the freehub mechanism may be at fault. Depending on what type it is, it may be serviceable, or it may be simpler to fit a replacement.

cooldad

Likely a freehub, strip it and see - clean and grease.

CARETAKER46

Hi All,
Sorry for the late reply.

I will have to get it checked out the Free hub, as i kept thinking it was derailleur.

This morning going to work and the bike chain link folded, as i do not how, got it free and rode my bike to work.

You guys are well appreciated for advising me- 5 star.

CARETAKER46

http://s50.photobucket.com/user/caretak ... ort=3&o=19

The picture on the above link i have serviced the free hub. Where the pawls the goes and oiled the Pawls. However the part on the bike wheel, where the free hub came off, this is not serviceable except the sealed bearing, as the sealed bearing is on the drive side and the brake disc side.

There was another bearing inside the free hub.

I will have to see after 2 weeks, as i am not riding my for 2 weeks.

CARETAKER46

Hi Guys,
Just an update, as i rode my bike for 2 days and fingers crossed it has worked, as it has not stopped the bike from just pedalling on it own.

Can you buy the pawls and spring on it own from UK ?

Can you service the Mavic wheel fixed Hub,which is on the mavic wheel ?

The problem I have is my cassette cogs they are slightly rattling and the cassette is tightened up or is it meant to be like this.


Much appreciated with your replies.

CARETAKER46

Dear All,
Just an update since i serviced the rear hub, my 9 speed cassette slightly rattles, is this normal, as i did the following below,

I have taken the back wheel out, taken the skewer out, then loosen the cassette and the lock ring and then taken off the cassette from Hub.

I popped off the cover from the Non drive side.

I never had to use Mavic hub tool, as the only tools i used was the Allen key, Chain whip, Shimano cassette cog tool,

I then used the 5mm and 10mm ALLEN KEY (Hex key) and loosen the anchor bolts and taken off the Anchor.

I then slowly took the Hub off, as I do not want to lose the springs.

Cleaned all inside, the wheel, Hub, Pawls and then applied Mineral oil and refitted the Hub.

The cassette tend to rattle slightly, but I cannot remember if this was happening before taken the wheel off and servicing the free Hub.

Any ideas, replies much appreciated.

drlodge

When you say the cassette rattles, do you mean as if the cassette lock nut is not properly tightening up the cassette sprockets? If that's the case I might suggest a spacer is missing.

CARETAKER46

Hi Drlodge,
Thank you for your reply.

I have tighten up the cassette up ,as tight as I could. When I rode the bike, I noticed the cassette rattles slightly.
The cassette was taken off in one go, however the large 9th cassette cog and the 6th cassette cog were all fixed together, as one complete and the 1st , 2nd and the 3rd cogs , As they were singular cogs, and then you have then the lock ring to tighten up. I did not see any spacers.

I

The Rookie

The largest cog is first, smallest ninth by convention....you don't drive a car away in 5th!

Photo, but there will usually be a spacer between the block and the first single gear, the smallest two gears have built in spacers.

If 6th and 7th and close up together that is where the spacer should be!

CARETAKER46

Hi Rookie,
Thank you for your reply.

i got your point, so the small cog will be the 9th gear and the cassette Largest cog is the 1st Gear , However the Largest cog (1st Gear) which goes in first on the free hub, as these 6 cogs were fixed together. The other 3 smaller size cogs (7th ,8th and 9th) were separate.

When i took the cassette out, i did not see any extra spacer.

What i can do is to take the cassette off and take pictures again to see if anyone can identify.

CARETAKER46

Hi Rookie,
What do you mean by here will usually be a spacer between the block and the first single gear

The Rookie

You don't need to take it off to photograph it. Just take it from behind showing the gears and gaps between them.

You have the block of 6 gears you put on first, usually there will be a spacer and then 7th gear, are 6th and 7th gears crammed together with no space in between?
Check out the example on this sheet but I don't know which cassette you have of the dozens of 9 speed available from different manufacturers and in different gear ranges - so this is just an example - but one of the most common MTB cassettes you'll find.
http://si.shimano.com/php/download.php? ... u-2076.pdf

CARETAKER46

Hi Rookie,
thank you for your reply and interest in the post. Much apprciated.
Rear Back the model is CS- M960 shimano .

http://si.shimano.com/php/download.php? ... 0-2153.pdf

Please see image on photobucket i have uploaded to see if you can fault find.

http://s50.photobucket.com/user/caretak ... j.jpg.html

cooldad

That's not really the back but it looks fine from there. There is always a little bit of 'rattle' in the cogs.

CARETAKER46

Thanks Cooldad.

Just got a problem with a Cassette slightly rattling and tyre problem which is slightly wobbling.

However i went to a mechanic for his opinion and he said may be a spacer missing and the tyre or the tube may have not fitted properly, so this is why this is wobbling.

CARETAKER46

Just and update for you guys,
I have given it to Halfords bike mechanic for service and to have a look at it for Wheel wobbling slightly, Cassette, adjust the gears, changed the gear cable, which was frayed and lubricate where needed.

I needed to do it, as i ride the bike to work everyday and i could not figure it, so i just gave it to the Halfords mechanic, as near my work place.

mattyfez

If the tyre is slightly wobbling, it is possible that it is not sat on the rim properly.

Tyres never sit properly on my wheels at first due to the shape of the rim bed, so I put them to almost maximum pressure, say 45 psi on a tyre that has a max of 55psi, then hit a few curbs to knock them into place, and then they 'pop' into position.

Then recheck the pressure to how you want.

FishFish

Although trivial you should move the chain stay protector back away from the gears and the chain as it has obviously chaffed them at some point.

CARETAKER46

Update, when I spoke to the Halford mechanic and he told me the same information as mattyfez mentioned, as the tyre Mus t of not sat in properly on the rim, so this is why you got a wobble. He applied liquid/grease ,so it moves easily and find the rim it self once it has filled it with air. He did still have the wobble, so he placed the tyre on the radiator and he said it is one of the tricks of the trade ,as when the heating comes on the heat will try and bring the tyre to it natural position.

I never knew it was the tyre at fault, as I kept thinking it will be the wheel buckle ,so I need the spoke adjusting by tightening and loosening.

I had my specialized pro tyre, which was at the centre the wheel was getting bold and the side wall start to appear cuts, where you can see the tube slightly popping out and when you ride the bike you can see the rear tyre wobbling.

So I replaced the tyre, by deflating the tube, took the old tyre out 26x2.00 and replaced it with 26x2.3 specialized pro butcher purchased from ebay. However when I changed the tyre I inserted the tyre first on one end of the wheel, then tube followed , first inserting the presto valve first and then the tube all the way round. I slight inflated the tube with air ,so it does not get trapped when I am inserting the 2nd part of the tyre on the rim.

However I never noticed anything wrong when I was inserting the tube and the wheel,as everything looked perfect, but when I rode my bike, it still had the wobble. So this is why I had to give the bike to the mechanic,as I did not know what was causing the wobble.

He also sorted my cassette by adding a spacer, as this was slightly rattling.

I will be picking my bike up tomorrow so I will see how it goes ,As he said the wobble in the tyre is sorted out and the rattle on the cassette.

CARETAKER46

FishFish wrote:

Although trivial you should move the chain stay protector back away from the gears and the chain as it has obviously chaffed them at some point.

So do you mean I need to adjust the rear mech to avoid chain touching the chain stay protector , as it has been chaffed meaning damaged the chain stay protector.

cooldad

No move the protector.

CARETAKER46

Ah I know what you mean, my chain stay protector must of moved or must of slide across slowly toward the cassette and it is chewing the chain stay protector. So I need to move it towards the chainring side so it is between the cassette and the chainring, so it does not catch the cassette or chainring.

I had to check the picture , as I never realised it was towards the cassette and chewing away the chain stay protector.

Thankyou for noticing it and mentioning it ,as I have very caring forum advisors.

Much appreciated guys.

CARETAKER46

Just an update, i got my bike and the tyre and the cassette is sorted.

Bleed the brakes and the bikes feel more smoother feel really chuffed.

He did a good job and he used mineral oil and grease to do the hub.

He told me he did a Gold service.

Let see how the bike ride through this winter.

Tyre is really pumped up, as i never had it that pump up, so it does make a difference when riding the bike.

I will need to purchase the air pressure monitor to check tyre pressure, as i have pump the dial/display i dont think it works and it is difficult to tell on the mini pump.