gear ratio and new components

ade555
ade555 Posts: 216
edited June 2016 in MTB workshop & tech
Hi

I'm hoping that someone can put me strait on gear ratio, at the moment I had single chain ring at 34t with cassette 11-34, is a bit of straggle on steep or long climbs but only off road and I can do it on road, also do lot of riding with family or even by my self locally that is most of pathways, roads ect. nothing difficult and running out of gears on straight bits, due to hard work on trails I went back to fitting granny ring on front ( call me lazy), I due replacement on cassette and chain anyway so looks like the 9 speed system will go now.

If I fit 36T chainring with 11-36 to have better speed on nice flats straight runs and good climbing gear or would I have to go to sunrace one for 11-40/11-42???

I don't like to spend money if I don't have to so need to get this right :D

Ade

Comments

  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    Google gear calculator.
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  • ade555
    ade555 Posts: 216
    cooldad wrote:
    Google gear calculator.


    I had a look but don't make much sense to me :?
  • cycleclinic
    cycleclinic Posts: 6,865
    Your current low gear ratio is 1:1. Fit a 36T chainring and 11-36T cassette for the same cadance in 36:11T you will be going faster but have to deliver more power. Your low gear will still be 1:1 so no better. A 36t with a sunrace cassette 11-40T will give you a lower low gear and higher top gear.

    Given you are asking the question I think the gear calculator would not help as if you understood how work work out a gear ratio then you would not have posted.
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  • ade555
    ade555 Posts: 216
    Looking on chart not much different but how is it in real life?

    Gear Ratios for these gears
    34 35 36
    11 3.1 3.2 3.3 11
    12 2.8 2.9 3.0 12
    13 2.6 2.7 2.8 13
    14 2.4 2.5 2.6 14
    15 2.3 2.3 2.4 15
    16 2.1 2.2 2.3 16
    17 2.0 2.1 2.1 17
    18 1.9 1.9 2.0 18
    19 1.8 1.8 1.9 19
    20 1.7 1.8 1.8 20
    21 1.6 1.7 1.7 21
    22 1.6 1.6 1.6 22
    23 1.5 1.5 1.6 23
    24 1.4 1.5 1.5 24
    25 1.4 1.4 1.4 25
    26 1.3 1.4 1.4 26
    27 1.3 1.3 1.3 27
    28 1.2 1.3 1.3 28
    29 1.2 1.2 1.2 29
    30 1.1 1.2 1.2 30
    31 1.1 1.1 1.2 31
    32 1.1 1.1 1.1 32
    33 1.0 1.1 1.1 33
    34 1.0 1.0 1.1 34
    35 1.0 1.0 1.0 35
    36 0.9 1.0 1.0 36
    37 0.9 1.0 1.0 37
    38 0.9 0.9 1.0 38
    39 0.9 0.9 0.9 39
    40 0.9 0.9 0.9 40
    41 0.8 0.9 0.9 41
    42 0.8 0.8 0.9 42
  • ade555
    ade555 Posts: 216
    Your current low gear ratio is 1:1. Fit a 36T chainring and 11-36T cassette for the same cadance in 36:11T you will be going faster but have to deliver more power. Your low gear will still be 1:1 so no better. A 36t with a sunrace cassette 11-40T will give you a lower low gear and higher top gear.

    Given you are asking the question I think the gear calculator would not help as if you understood how work work out a gear ratio then you would not have posted.


    I had a look at them calculators/charts, but on them numbers I'm looking 3.1to 3.3 and climbing gear still around 1.0 unless I go to 40t cassette then drops to 0.9 and the main question how them numbers corresponds to life riding or should I say it would I notice the difference.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    The number reflects how many times the back wheel turns for one turn of the cranks, so a 1 means the rear wheel goes round once for every crank revolution, 0.9 is an easier climbing gear than 1.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • ade555
    ade555 Posts: 216
    The Rookie wrote:
    The number reflects how many times the back wheel turns for one turn of the cranks, so a 1 means the rear wheel goes round once for every crank revolution, 0.9 is an easier climbing gear than 1.


    Thanks

    Would the be much difference if we only talking about changing gear ratio by 0.1.

    For some reason I have this stuck in my head that @0.1 difference I will not notice it or make much easier
  • drlodge
    drlodge Posts: 4,826
    ade555 wrote:
    The Rookie wrote:
    The number reflects how many times the back wheel turns for one turn of the cranks, so a 1 means the rear wheel goes round once for every crank revolution, 0.9 is an easier climbing gear than 1.


    Thanks

    Would the be much difference if we only talking about changing gear ratio by 0.1.

    For some reason I have this stuck in my head that @0.1 difference I will not notice it or make much easier
    It depends. 0.1 is 10% of 1.0 so that's quite a lot.
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  • kickaxe
    kickaxe Posts: 446
    ade555 wrote:
    The Rookie wrote:
    The number reflects how many times the back wheel turns for one turn of the cranks, so a 1 means the rear wheel goes round once for every crank revolution, 0.9 is an easier climbing gear than 1.


    Thanks

    Would the be much difference if we only talking about changing gear ratio by 0.1.

    For some reason I have this stuck in my head that @0.1 difference I will not notice it or make much easier

    That's a pretty tiny difference, will at most take a ride or two to get used to, nothing dramatic...
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  • kajjal
    kajjal Posts: 3,380
    To give a comparison i use 2 x 10 with 24/38 and 11-36 due to wanting top end speed and very low gears for long steeper climbs.

    This is a range of 0.66 up to 3.45. It just depends what you need, no point struggling uphill or lacking speed if a single chainring doesn't give you what you need.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    10% is about one gear on an MTB cassette, so think of it has having that gear one gear lower than your current lowest gear.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.