Garmin cadence sensor (magnet-less)
Chaps, I have bought one of the Garmin magnet-less cadence sensors and the blinking thing keeps falling into a slumber like a drunken man after a day at the races. I can get it to pair and have then ridden fine with it...but the next day I switch on the Garmin 500, give the crank a few spins, nothing. Give it a few more...nothing. Go mad for 5 minutes, nothing. The solution seems to be to take the battery out, put it back in, re-pair the 500/sensor (which takes a few minutes) and then all is fine. However, I expect to just get my bike out, a few spins and then ride off.
I know Garmin are good with warranty but, before I resort to that, am I missing an easy trick to wake the thing up before a ride? Many thanks.
I know Garmin are good with warranty but, before I resort to that, am I missing an easy trick to wake the thing up before a ride? Many thanks.
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The battery terminals aren't a bit corroded are they? Just thinking that if taking battery out and then refitting resolves it it might just remake a decent connection for a while, which then deteriorates after being left overnight.“You may think that; I couldn’t possibly comment!”
Wilier Cento Uno SR/Wilier Mortirolo/Specialized Roubaix Comp/Kona Hei Hei/Calibre Bossnut0 -
Not a bad idea Dabber but the thing is only a week old. Does sound like a connection issue though, thinking about it. Might have a little play...0
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i had a new 520, the new cadence sensor would take forever to pair and i needed to dis/con the battery like you.
i replaced the battery, a 2032, with a new one - all has been good for the last 3 months.
tbh of the 3 ant devices the unit pairs with, the Cadence is the one that always take the longest to wake up, this is exactly the same with my daughters 520 as well.0 -
Mine was bad news out of the box as well. I just changed the battery and It was AOK (and has been for about 9 months since). If that doesn't work, suggest just sending it back for an exchange.Cannondale Synapse Carbon Ultegra
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Just to close this off as the issue appears to be all fixed.
Thanks to the tip-off from Dabber, I checked the battery and then placed a small piece of paper on the +ve side, effectively forcing the battery towards the internal contacts on the -ve side (actually, the + & - contacts are on the same side of the battery in this design, with the -ve being central and the +ve being off to one side). The sensor has now been in place for a couple of days and, whenever I turn the cranks a few revolutions, the green lights flash indicating the unit has woken up. The little trick there is not to spin too quickly or slowly, just at a comfortable pace for a hand.
The 500 unit worked well with the sensor last night and the results were consistent and plausible.0 -
Great, Glad to hear you've managed to fix it.“You may think that; I couldn’t possibly comment!”
Wilier Cento Uno SR/Wilier Mortirolo/Specialized Roubaix Comp/Kona Hei Hei/Calibre Bossnut0 -
Slightly related... I replaced the HR monitor battery some while back, the old one was working fine but quite old so thought a fresh battery would be a good idea. I just could not get the HRM working again. Found out the new battery was as flat as a pancake. Ordered a new battery, tested it for voltage before installing and it worked fine.
These devices don't like dodgy batteries or a general lack of juice.WyndyMilla Massive Attack | Rourke 953 | Condor Italia 531 Pro | Boardman CX Pro | DT Swiss RR440 Tubeless Wheels
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When I replaced my old GCS10 sensor for the new sensors a few years back, the cadence sensor wouldn't work out of the box. Turned out the battery it came with was flat.I ride a bike. Doesn't make me green or a tree hugger. I drive a car too.0