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Hydraulics for CX - TRP Hy/RD any good?

PuttyKneesPuttyKnees Posts: 381
edited August 2016 in Cyclocross
I've finally had enough of fettling BB7s. I just got my cx bike sorted ready for a spin and some catastrophic failure of two pad spreaders means I'm now ready to make the jump. I'd quite like to avoid getting a completely new groupset - everything is OK as it is, so looking at the mech/hydro hybrids. I recall there were quite a few problems when the TRP hy/rd first came out - have these been resolved? Can anyone recommend them for racing?

Or come to think of it - Hope V Twins?

Posts

  • bendertherobotbendertherobot Posts: 11,684
    Trp Hy Rd should be as good as the Twins. But, they aren't cheap. It's a shame they're always pretty much £200 the pair. But if you already have shifters, it's the best option.

    That said. IF your shifters are in good condition and you could get £100 for them then £300 should get you most of the way to RS685 or Sram Rival. What's your existing setup?
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  • glynrs2glynrs2 Posts: 4,143
    I got a pair of TRP Hy-Rd for my Cannondale CAADX and they are very good indeed. However, that was upgrading from some very sketchy Promax Render R callipers, so not surprised by improvement.
    Got them from here for £135 for the pair and they came very quickly.
  • passoutpassout Posts: 4,425
    They have been working well for me - not up to the stnadard of the full hyros on my MTB but still good.
    'Happiness serves hardly any other purpose than to make unhappiness possible' Marcel Proust.
  • comsensecomsense Posts: 245
    I'm happy enough with my experiences. I had an absolute life or death braking situation on a wet and greasy road and that convinced me they were good enough......

    How about you get a single Hy/Rd and keep the good BB7 on the back - I have that exact setup on my 2nd bike whilst I have 2 x HY/RD on the good bike. Had to take the 2nd bike on a 200K sportive with lots of dangerous descending recently and was happy enough - never missed the back Hy/Rd.
  • bendertherobotbendertherobot Posts: 11,684
    Much also depends on what the full hydros you have. TRP Hy Rd aren't as good as my Shimano SLX but they are staggeringly good so that's a bit unfair. But they are the best non hydro I've tried and are, IMO, easily as good a my old Avid Juicy 3's. (this may be damning with feint praise!)
    My blog: http://www.roubaixcycling.cc (kit reviews and other musings)
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  • meanredspidermeanredspider Posts: 12,337
    comsense wrote:
    How about you get a single Hy/Rd and keep the good BB7 on the back - I have that exact setup on my 2nd bike whilst I have 2 x HY/RD on the good bike. Had to take the 2nd bike on a 200K sportive with lots of dangerous descending recently and was happy enough - never missed the back Hy/Rd.

    Exactly what I have on my road bike. I've never done CX but, on loose surfaces, I brake a lot more at the rear on other bikes.
    ROAD < Scott Foil HMX Di2, Volagi Liscio Di2, Jamis Renegade Elite Di2, Cube Reaction Race > ROUGH
  • PuttyKneesPuttyKnees Posts: 381
    Thanks all - I currently have SRAM apex shifters - doubt I could get much for them. I was thinking of upgrading the shifters as well, but it seems a bit much if a partial upgrade will do.
  • kafkathedogkafkathedog Posts: 242
    I have got these:
    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Juin-Tech-R1-Hydraulic-Cable-Pull-Disc-Brake-Set-Black-Cyclocross-CX-Road-/262221428521

    I haven't raced on them yet but so far they have been brilliant on my Sunday rides and commutes so can't see why they wouldn't be any good for racing (unless you need self adjustment that the TRPs have)

    I haven't needed to adjust yet but there is a neat little screw which does the job so should only take seconds.

    They are much better than the TRP (mechanicals) I had on my Giant.

    Worth a look...
  • meanredspidermeanredspider Posts: 12,337
    Yes - that's the only watch-out with Hy-Rd: they need some free-play in order to self-adjust. This means some lever travel before they bite. Personally, I really like this and always set my brakes like that in any case. Others maybe like some instant bite in which case a manually adjusted brake might feel better.
    ROAD < Scott Foil HMX Di2, Volagi Liscio Di2, Jamis Renegade Elite Di2, Cube Reaction Race > ROUGH
  • @PuttyKnees
    I'm looking for a cheap pair of Apex shifters if you do upgrade
  • bendertherobotbendertherobot Posts: 11,684
    I've asked Juin Tech for a review copy. They seem quite happy but it's up to the UK distributor. They've given a nudge.

    Fingers crossed!
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  • redveeredvee Posts: 11,921
    GlynRS2 wrote:
    Got them from here for £135 for the pair and they came very quickly.

    Was watching that auction and now the BIN price is £148 but the original price might have had postage to add on.
    I've added a signature to prove it is still possible.
  • thegibdogthegibdog Posts: 2,106
    I'm in the process of overhauling a CX bike I picked up second hand a couple of years ago. It came with old Tiagra 9sp levers and Hope V-Twin / X2 brakes which need some tlc. At the moment I'm weighing up four options:

    1. Service the Hope brakes (or more likely get them serviced, I have no experience of hydraulics)
    2. Get some hydraulic levers to go with the X2s (assuming this would be ok?)
    3. Get completely new hydraulic levers & brakes
    4. Get some mechanical brakes (probably TRP Spyres)

    I'm leaning towards option 4, mainly due to my lack of experience with hydraulics and my complete lack of success with getting the Hopes working well. I'm not sure if it's the levers, the V-Twin, the hydraulic fluid or the X2s that's making the braking rubbish!

    Edit: Option 5 could be switching to flat bar with hydraulics & trigger shifter, which would be a cheap option with the best braking.
  • bendertherobotbendertherobot Posts: 11,684
    I've asked Juin Tech for a review copy. They seem quite happy but it's up to the UK distributor. They've given a nudge.

    Fingers crossed!

    And they are incoming! I've asked for green ones. Because, well, green.
    My blog: http://www.roubaixcycling.cc (kit reviews and other musings)
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  • carrockcarrock Posts: 1,103
    I have just fitted a HY/RD to my Crux- also with SRAM APEX

    Be aware that these brakes are designed for Shimano which has a different pull ratio. The brake lever comes all the way back to the bars

    You cant adjust the pull ratio so the only way round it is to re route the cable which involves filing a new channel on the lever arm.

    I have done this and the lever travel is now normal although the brake is still bedding in. Hopefully should be better than the BB7
  • bendertherobotbendertherobot Posts: 11,684
    The lever throw is long on whatever brakes you use. I'm not aware that they are longer on SRAM than Shimano though?
    My blog: http://www.roubaixcycling.cc (kit reviews and other musings)
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  • I have replaced the BB7s with HyRds on my PX XLS, with no issues re cable pull, on SRAM Rival levers.

    Best upgrade I ever made, far less fiddling, and I managed to find a pair 2nd hand for £100. Nuke proof pads in there and they are great.
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