Why So Hard To Get A Clincher Tyre On

deejaysee
deejaysee Posts: 149
edited June 2016 in Road general
Whenever i get a puncture (which is 6 times in 6 months) i absolutely dread having to get my tyre back on.
I can literally spend hours trying.
Its that last quarter or so, its so tight there is absolutely no way its getting on.
In the mean time i'm scratching the s**t out of my rims

Any tips because its utterly ridiculous
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Comments

  • singleton
    singleton Posts: 2,523
    There are some combinations of wheel and tyre that are very, very hard to put on - what are your wheels and tyres?
    I've fitted various michelin and continental tyres to Fulcrum and shimano wheels without too much difficulty.
  • bobmcstuff
    bobmcstuff Posts: 11,435
    /\ wot he said - I can get 4Seasons onto my Zondas no bother but onto my Miche wheels it's a nightmare.

    Also some tyre levers are better than others, I have one set which always seem to result in me pinching the inners but my park tools ones are really good.
  • pblakeney
    pblakeney Posts: 27,346
    If a tyre is difficult to put on a rim then I break it in by putting it off and on again a few times in the luxury of my front room. They do get easier and I'd rather struggle at home than by the roadside.
    The above may be fact, or fiction, I may be serious, I may be jesting.
    I am not sure. You have no chance.
    Veronese68 wrote:
    PB is the most sensible person on here.
  • deejaysee
    deejaysee Posts: 149
    Wheels are the standard Giant PR-2 and either the standard tyres or my Conti 4 seasons.
    Both are a total nightmare to get on

    It got to the point last night where i just gave up i got so fed up.
  • paul2718
    paul2718 Posts: 471
    Consult YouTube to see if perhaps you're missing something.

    In general make sure that where the tyre is already on the rim, the beads are touching in the deepest part of the rim, and then pull from each side right around the wheel until you reach the part of the tyre still to fit. Hard to explain clearly.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=88MVtTIH4us

    Paul
  • blueturtle
    blueturtle Posts: 33
    All tyres and wheels are manufactured to a standard size.Unfortunately there are tolerances within this standard size plus or minus.Your problem is to find a wheel/tyre combination compatible with each other. A search on the internet should help to sort this issue out. As an interim measure if you spread talcum powder on side wall of tyre this will aid the fitting and removal of tyre (it acts as a lubricant).
  • singleton
    singleton Posts: 2,523
    I don't need to use tyre levers to get a tyre on - only to get it off...
  • bobmcstuff
    bobmcstuff Posts: 11,435
    Singleton wrote:
    I don't need to use tyre levers to get a tyre on - only to get it off...
    Don't on my Zondas - did yesterday with my Miche though...
  • photonic69
    photonic69 Posts: 2,836
    deejaysee wrote:
    Wheels are the standard Giant PR-2 and either the standard tyres or my Conti 4 seasons.
    Both are a total nightmare to get on

    It got to the point last night where i just gave up i got so fed up.

    I've the same rims and I have had no trouble with Conti Grand Prix GTs nor the original fitment tyres. In fact the originals were so slack I barely needed levers at all. Turbo tyre is an easy fit too. Can't see Giant changing rim size that dramatically. My rims are 3 year old. I know Gatorskins can be an issue.

    Are your tyres wire bead or folding. Wire can be harder as less flexi. Technique plays a huge part. Do you part inflate the tube before seating tyre? I part inflate by mouth to get a shape in the tube but I have to release air when squeezing tyre around the rim and into the "well" before getting last 1/4 on. Seems to work for me.


    Sometimes. Maybe. Possibly.

  • jermas
    jermas Posts: 484
    You could try tyre mounting lubricant (I haven't) but it should make it easier. Plastic non scratching levers might be better if you are using metal ones- schwalbe ones are ok.
    Maybe try puncture sealant. I haven't had to fix a puncture roadside for at least 30,000 miles since starting using it. Very occasionally have to fix at home though (slow leak). It's a bit of a hassle getting it into the inner-tubes (with removeable valve cores) but once done you don't notice it whilst riding. This is what I use. There's a cycle specific version but I've not tried it. http://okosales.co.uk/products/off-road-products/oko-puncture-free-off-road-in-bottles/
  • deejaysee
    deejaysee Posts: 149
    Tyres are folding.
    Will try and seat one side of the tyre into the deep part of the rim method.
    Having one side seated properly in the rim would make it tighter

    Makes sense
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,667
    Some are harder than others but it sounds like you are just not doing it right.

    It's the side you are trying to get in that you need in the centre of the rim

    You pull it on most of the way around, but then push the final bit on with your thumbs.

    You should not need levers to put a tyre on.
  • singleton
    singleton Posts: 2,523
    Some people seem to find different techniques easier / harder.
    The most common option seems to be to hold the wheel with the unfitted side of the tyre facing you, and use your thumbs to push the tyre up and onto the wheel. Another option is to turn the wheel round so the unfitted tyre is facing away from you, then use your fingers to pull the tyre up onto the rim.

    I generally use the first option with my thumbs - but you may find the other option easier.
  • dj58
    dj58 Posts: 2,223
    deejaysee wrote:
    Wheels are the standard Giant PR-2 and either the standard tyres or my Conti 4 seasons.
    Both are a total nightmare to get on

    It got to the point last night where i just gave up i got so fed up.

    Are they the rim brake or disc brake PR-2 wheels, I think you will find it is the tyre that is a tight fit on those rims. I had no problem fitting Panaracer or Specialized tyres to the rim brake PR-2. Have you considered on of theses
    http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/category/ ... -11-44397/
  • sheffsimon
    sheffsimon Posts: 1,282
    Carbonator wrote:
    Some are harder than others but it sounds like you are just not doing it right.

    It's the side you are trying to get in that you need in the centre of the rim

    You pull it on most of the way around, but then push the final bit on with your thumbs.

    You should not need levers to put a tyre on.

    ^^ This

    I have some thin work gloves with rubber coating that I use, and just roll the last bit on with my palms.

    Always risky using tyre levers for that last bit.

    Michelin always seem easy to fit, as do Schwalbe Ultremos, especially on Zondas.
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,667
    Oh, and start at the valve! :twisted:
  • photonic69
    photonic69 Posts: 2,836
    Carbonator wrote:
    Oh, and start at the valve! :twisted:

    NO! Start opposite the valve. The valve area is bulky and you can't get this down into the well of the rim. You'll get more slack the other way.


    Sometimes. Maybe. Possibly.

  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,667
    PhotoNic69 wrote:
    Carbonator wrote:
    Oh, and start at the valve! :twisted:

    NO! Start opposite the valve. The valve area is bulky and you can't get this down into the well of the rim. You'll get more slack the other way.

    Ah ha, someone bit :twisted:

    No its not, and yes you can.
    You just push the valve up into tyre (no silly retaniing nut obviously) :wink:

    Its much easier to sort the valve out first when its easy to push it into tyre and out of the way.
    Having it in the way at the end is over complicating the part that the OP finds the hardest!

    You are more likely to pinch the tube between the rim and/or get it trapped if you have the valve holding it there as you are trying to get the last bit of tyre to 'snap' on.
  • CiB
    CiB Posts: 6,098
    PhotoNic69 wrote:
    Carbonator wrote:
    Oh, and start at the valve! :twisted:

    NO! Start opposite the valve. The valve area is bulky and you can't get this down into the well of the rim. You'll get more slack the other way.
    No. Start at the valve, but don't finish opposite it; try to end up at about the 3 o'clock position.

    I get where OP's coming from having had some tyre & wheel combo's that leave you with shredded red palms trying to get the last bit on, but they always fit in the end. And some tyres fall off & fall back on with minimal intervention once they're started.

    My thoughts, for tight tyres...
    Inflate the tube slightly to make it circular, about the same size as the tyre.
    Start at the valve, and push it up once you've got the tyre started so that the beads slip below the valve in the rim.
    Keep going a bit at a time and keep pushing the tube in with the round end of the tyre lever as you go, so that it's in properly and not twisted or trapped under the last bit of tyre.
    Work it round to finish at the 3 o'clock area.
    At the end let a bit more air out of the tube but leave enough for it to have some shape, then continue work in small increments rolling it on with thumbs & palms.
    Keep the opposite beads in the well of the rim as much as poss.
    If it won't go on after a couple of minutes, put it down & walk away then come back to it. It'll probably go on after a bit more grunting.
  • photonic69
    photonic69 Posts: 2,836
    PhotoNic69 wrote:

    NO! Start opposite the valve......


    Just saying what works for me. As usual YMMV :-)


    Sometimes. Maybe. Possibly.

  • drlodge
    drlodge Posts: 4,826
    Start at the valve for clinchers (pushing the valve up to ensure the inner tube isn't pinched), opposite the valve for tubeless.
    WyndyMilla Massive Attack | Rourke 953 | Condor Italia 531 Pro | Boardman CX Pro | DT Swiss RR440 Tubeless Wheels
    Find me on Strava
  • Richj
    Richj Posts: 240
    as others have said some wheel/tyre combo's I have found are just impossible. I have Miche wheels and an old Michelin Pro3 folding tyre for the turbo, I nearly broke my tyre lever trying to get it on. Strangely changing the rim tape did help a little bit but it was still very hard. The same tyres came off Easton rims and I never had an issue and the same for Mavic, always worked a treat.
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,667
    CiB wrote:
    PhotoNic69 wrote:
    Carbonator wrote:
    Oh, and start at the valve! :twisted:

    NO! Start opposite the valve. The valve area is bulky and you can't get this down into the well of the rim. You'll get more slack the other way.
    No. Start at the valve, but don't finish opposite it; try to end up at about the 3 o'clock position.


    Thanks for the back up, but why 3 o'clock?
    Whats the difference between 3, 4,5 or 6?

    Its probably not going to be exactly 6 anyway, its just where you end up.

    I would deflate the tube fully once it was in too. Its not going to twist drastically once it is put in straight, and if its not fully deflated it will hold the tyre near the rim.

    OP, if you are having one puncture a month I would try to find out why this is.
    Its not normal to have that many IMO.

    If I were getting that many and they were all legitimate I would either get more puncture resistant tyres or self sealing tubes.
  • drlodge
    drlodge Posts: 4,826
    More than likely its something embedded in the tyre. You need to find out what's causing the punctures and eliminate the cause.
    WyndyMilla Massive Attack | Rourke 953 | Condor Italia 531 Pro | Boardman CX Pro | DT Swiss RR440 Tubeless Wheels
    Find me on Strava
  • the_hundredth_idiot
    the_hundredth_idiot Posts: 813
    Campag Ventos and Gatorskins. That makes me sob and my thumbs is damn near disclocated before I've succeeded. I dread having to do it in the cold and rain. Thank the gods I only need to do it about once every two years!
    Never be tempted to race against a Barclays Cycle Hire bike. If you do, there are only two outcomes. Of these, by far the better is that you now have the scalp of a Boris Bike.
  • lostboysaint
    lostboysaint Posts: 4,250
    That's a clue to get rid of the shit tyres!!
    Trail fun - Transition Bandit
    Road - Wilier Izoard Centaur/Cube Agree C62 Disc
    Allround - Cotic Solaris
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,667
    The Hundredth Idiot wrote:
    Campag Ventos and Gatorskins. That makes me sob and my thumbs is damn near disclocated before I've succeeded. I dread having to do it in the cold and rain. Thank the gods I only need to do it about once every two years!

    Hardly the worse thing about having bought Gatorskins though 8)
  • darkhairedlord
    darkhairedlord Posts: 7,180
    Put one side on fully, then half of the other side working from the bottom up. Pinch the tyre at the bottom between the palm and four fingertips to get the bead I'm the well. Pinch the top of the tyre and give it a good shake to get the wheel to drop right down over the bottom bead. Now simply twist the bead onto the rim working evenly with both hands. For the last bit a gob of spit can help it slide in. No levers are required.
  • darkhairedlord
    darkhairedlord Posts: 7,180
    Don't forget to align the logos to the valve.
  • 6wheels
    6wheels Posts: 411
    No one has mentioned... wipe the bead with some fairy liquid mixed with water, makes fitting easier.

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