FSA & Shimano Bottom Brackets
My bike currently has a FSA MegaExo Sealed BB in it and I've got a Shimano HollowTech II chainset coming off Ebay.
I've read that the FSA BB should work with the Shimano chainset, is this right? Or should I buy a £15 Ultegra BB so I know the parts are designed to work together?
I've read that the FSA BB should work with the Shimano chainset, is this right? Or should I buy a £15 Ultegra BB so I know the parts are designed to work together?
I've added a signature to prove it is still possible.
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Yes, it'll work but the crank may need 'persuading' in and out.0
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Went the Ultegra BB option in the end cause I know it'll work.I've added a signature to prove it is still possible.0
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I had one of those crappy FSA BB's and cranksets on my Whyte. The FSA BB's last about 3 to 4 months. Terrible quality. Throw away the BB and crankset. Put a Hollowtech BB in there (it's a 68mm English thread) and get a Shimano crankset. The FSA MegaExo 4000 BB is for a different size shaft (19mm) than the Shimano cranksets.
The upgrade cost me less than £100 and I no longer need to replace a £30 BB every 3 months.0 -
I just replaced a mega exo bb with an Ultegra bb to be used with an FSA chainset (24mm I believe). It needed a slightly more persuasive tap but it worked fine afterwards, no issues at all.
The Ultegra option saves you £20 and last a hell of a lot longer than the crappy Mega Exo BBs.0 -
I sized up the axles against the opposing BBs and there was a size difference but can't remember which way round. Had to make sure I bought the right BB as the Ultegra BBR60 I bought looked smaller cause of the outside diameter being smaller to save weight, needs a new tool as the plastic adapter supplied soon got chewed up.I've added a signature to prove it is still possible.0
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LiamW wrote:I just replaced a mega exo bb with an Ultegra bb to be used with an FSA chainset (24mm I believe). It needed a slightly more persuasive tap but it worked fine afterwards, no issues at all.
The Ultegra option saves you £20 and last a hell of a lot longer than the crappy Mega Exo BBs.
100% correct. They are both nominally 24mm but there is a difference in size that is why the FSA is a tighter fit. To measure the difference you will need a good micrometer.0 -
It all depends on which FSA MegaExo crankset / BB that you have got - there are two the BB6000 and the BB6200 and I have both. The BB6000 is what most people have. I "accidentally" bought the BB6200 crankset when PlanetX sold them very cheaply.
The BB are both the same diameter but the cranksets are different.
The BB6000 nds crank attaches in the same way as the Shimano HT2 nds crank i.e. a allen key preload in centre and two opposing allen key bolts to lock it onto the shaft. You can replace the MegaExo BB with a HT2 BB for this crank. It is a tight fit but some gentle persuasion will fit it ok.
The BB6200 nds crank attaches with a single central allen key bolt. This is tensioned to 54nM and is also self-extracting.
I have found that this crank is not compatible with HT2 because the distance between the outside face of the BB is critical to the fit. HT2 bearing shells are deeper than the BB6200 and I was not happy when I tried to fit it.
BB6200 should last longer than BB6000 as it is stainless steel and seems to be well sealed externally.
Unfortunately the first BB6200 BB I had did not last long because it was fitted to a Px Pro Carbon and, although these have an aluminium shell in the BB there are holes where the chainstays join and water gets in - so it sat in water and rusted from the back.
I have now sealed these holes with silicon sealant and hope the BB lasts long enough to justify its £35 price.
I got caught in one of the flash floods last week(in Poynton nr Stockport) and cycled through water up to 1/2 metre deep and on examination the BB was unaffected.0 -
paulbnix wrote:This is tensioned to 54nM and is also self-extracting.
Yeah - I just got a Whyte with FSA Gossamer Pro EVO-386 crankset and noticed 54nM - my torque wrench had a fit at that and I guess I would need to buy a car torque wrench to be able to remove the crankset now... Seems mighty tight!0 -
apreading wrote:paulbnix wrote:This is tensioned to 54nM and is also self-extracting.
Yeah - I just got a Whyte with FSA Gossamer Pro EVO-386 crankset and noticed 54nM - my torque wrench had a fit at that and I guess I would need to buy a car torque wrench to be able to remove the crankset now... Seems mighty tight!
You don't need a torque wrench to remove it, a decent breaker bar possibly. But you would need one to reinstall it with certainty. 54Nm is quite high.0 -
keef66 wrote:apreading wrote:paulbnix wrote:This is tensioned to 54nM and is also self-extracting.
Yeah - I just got a Whyte with FSA Gossamer Pro EVO-386 crankset and noticed 54nM - my torque wrench had a fit at that and I guess I would need to buy a car torque wrench to be able to remove the crankset now... Seems mighty tight!
You don't need a torque wrench to remove it, a decent breaker bar possibly. But you would need one to reinstall it with certainty. 54Nm is quite high.
Yes - it was re-installing that was my concern, wouldnt trust myself doing that on a carbon frame although I am guessing that the BB shell itself is metal. Thats a helluva lot of torque to estimate!0 -
I have a normal bike torque wrench that goes up to 25Nm so I tighten it to that plus a couple of extra clicks. Seems to be just fine.
You are not putting massive torque on the BB as the end of the shift is tapered and there is a wavy spring washer under the NDS crank.
I have a set of Allen keys that fit a standard socket set and they make removal easy.0 -
OK - I guess 54Nm isnt as tight as maybe it sounds then!0
