Sram crank stuck

mtblad
mtblad Posts: 14
edited August 2016 in MTB workshop & tech
Hi i have just recived my new X5 crank to go on my bike as my old oneis tatty and batterd.

The original crank has never been replaced and i cannot get the thing off. I have used a rubber and a wooden mallet, ive tried using a block. I probably could hit it harder but if i do im worried in case i damage something like a bb but im getting to the point where i need this out at all costs.

The silver axel is stuck probably dur to rust in the splines , my fault for not regularly greeasing it and keeping it clean.

Has anyone got any ideas or shall i just smash the crap out of it . Thanks http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/xxmarkyxxmark/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps7daw0yyn.jpeg.html

Comments

  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Not sure what I'm looking at? Have you undone the bolt holding the crank on? Do you have a crank puller?

    What are you hitting?
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • mtblad
    mtblad Posts: 14
    Hi yes just trying to show the axel thats stuck, yes the bolts removed , i am actually tapping the axel thats pointing out.
  • rockmonkeysc
    rockmonkeysc Posts: 14,774
    I've got a similar SRAM Crank. It does take a good whack with a plastic mallet to shift it. A wooden or rubber mallet probably won't shift it.
    A bit of penetrating fluid might help if you didn't grease it when you fitted it.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Looks like an internal BB to me?
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    It does.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Glad it's not just me.....I thought I was being crazy (or crazier than normal).
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • mtblad
    mtblad Posts: 14
    I've got a similar SRAM Crank. It does take a good whack with a plastic mallet to shift it. A wooden or rubber mallet probably won't shift it.
    A bit of penetrating fluid might help if you didn't grease it when you fitted it.


    Hi thats what i was thinking , if I absolutely hit it with all of my Guns will it damage the BB or not?

    Bare in mind i have a brand new crank to go on so damaging the axle is not a concern.

    Ive got a wooden mallet and not had much luck with it the thing is rusted to bits. I was thinking about going hardcore and pulling a metal one out if ive got no other option.

    Thanks for your help.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Well what sort of crank do you have, if it's designed for an external bottom bracket you need to replace that one anyway, if you beat the hell out of a internal BB then you'll damage the bearings which are the only things preventing sideways movement.

    Have you even conformed the cranks and BB are compatible, given you don't seem to understand what you have right now.......
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • mtblad
    mtblad Posts: 14
    I have a sram X5 crank GXP and i have been told of a bike mechanic that the bottom bracket wont need replacing unless its already damaged.

    Yes they are compatible the crank i am taking of is the one that came preinstalled on my bike and never has been removed.

    I am prettty sure GXP press fit is external accoridng to chain reactions anyways.
  • JBA
    JBA Posts: 2,852
    That's a push fit GXP bottom bracket in your photo.

    The crank set should come out fairly easily. As your's seems to be stuck try holding a flat piece of metal across the end of the axle and give it a few whacks with a hammer.
    “Life has been unfaithful
    And it all promised so so much”

    Giant Trance 2 27.5 2016 ¦ Sonder Broken Road 2021¦ Giant Revolt Advanced 2 2019 ¦ Giant Toughtroad SLR 1 2019 ¦ Giant Anthem 3 2015 ¦ Specialized Myka Comp FSR 2009
  • me-109
    me-109 Posts: 1,915
    I've not seen that silver ring on the outside of the bearings before. Anyway, I'd screw the crank bolt back in to give a bit more to hit without deforming the end of the crank. Even if you don't need the old cranks it's more to hit.
  • mtblad
    mtblad Posts: 14
    I got it of in the end thanks to all of yours advice and banged the crap out of it . Thanks a lot , very happy. Will be using this forum again.

    Some one mwntioned on here to use a sheet of metal or flat metal, i looked around shed and found nothing untill i seen a hand spade as that has A amooth metal surface. I put the spade against the axel and smashed it 3 times it came loose. Then i used the rubber mallet and hit the axel out and it shot out.

    Just gived the bb a bit of a clean got the rust off regreased , checked for smoothness, checked the washers and no problem even after the abuse it got of the battering so thumbs up sram.

    Thanks for all your help much appeciated.
  • If you leave the outer cap in place (10mm Allen) the crank will pull itself off while you are undoing the the 8mm Allen screw which actually holds the crank (this 8mm screw is behind the 10mm cap but accessible)
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Holy pointless thread resurection Batman!
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.