Fork fitting.
Kitz
Posts: 63
Hi all, few questions about fitting forks. Considering doing the job myself due to the fact that the ones I want are a lot cheaper online and I'm not sure how I feel about taking internet parts to be fitted by my LBS.
So:
Will any frame take a tapered or a straight 1 1/8 steerer? Is it the headset that takes either the straight or tapered option?
Headsets- will I need a new one? I'd probably like to upgrade it at the same time. How much of a pita are they to remove/replace/re-fit? What do I need in terms of measurements for a tapered fork?
Tools- anything special I need?
Steerer tube cutting- I guess this is the part I'd be most worried about. Getting it straight, getting it exactly the right length. Any tips?
Cheers!
So:
Will any frame take a tapered or a straight 1 1/8 steerer? Is it the headset that takes either the straight or tapered option?
Headsets- will I need a new one? I'd probably like to upgrade it at the same time. How much of a pita are they to remove/replace/re-fit? What do I need in terms of measurements for a tapered fork?
Tools- anything special I need?
Steerer tube cutting- I guess this is the part I'd be most worried about. Getting it straight, getting it exactly the right length. Any tips?
Cheers!
0
Comments
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What frame have you got? You need the right steerer to suit your frame and headset.Transition Patrol - viewtopic.php?f=10017&t=130702350
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2015 Saracen Kili flyer 1210
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RockmonkeySC wrote:What frame have you got? You need the right steerer to suit your frame and headset.
Says this in the description:
CNC Taper 1 1/8" to 1.5" headtube
Tapered steerer it is then!0 -
As its currently a tapered steerer you can use a plain steerer fork with a crown race adaptor like the hope (or cheaper alternative) to use your current headset. Apart from weight there is no 'upgrade' from a headset that works to another that works, headsets can last a long time (my commuter uses an OE Carrera headset that is now 10 years old).
Your new forks need a steerer that is at least long enough, cutting isn't too hard I use an old 28.6mm seatpost clamp and then a sacrificial headset spacers to cut alongside (it gets marked up by the blade), or get a plumbers pipe cutter.
You don't need any other special tools, fitting the star fangled nut needs a little care, just use a long M6 bolt and keep it straight as you tap the nut in.Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0