Converting 3x10 to 1x10 - Is it worth it?

Ybot321
Ybot321 Posts: 8
edited June 2016 in MTB workshop & tech
Hey guys,

So I've been running a Fuji Nevada 1.1 29er as my XC and mess around bike and I have enjoyed every pedal on the beauty. I've noticed recently that I never use the big or small ring as much on the front because I don't really need to. So I've been looking into converting it to a 1x10 drivetrain bike. But - and there always seems to be a but - I'm not sure whether it is worth it or not and I need your help!

1. Will losing the two rings, the derailleur, gear shifter and cables lose weight that is noticeable and make a difference?

2. How do you undergo a conversion, do you need to buy a new ring or is it as simple as remove a few and tada!?

3. How has it affected you and your riding? Do you like it?

Thanks all,
Toby.

Comments

  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Personally it's worth it, 3 of my 4 bikes are 1x, but it does depend on your usage. You can't use the ramped and pinned current chainwheel without issues, even with a single specific ring you would need a chainguide, but if you get a narrow wide you won't. So remove shifter cable and mech, remove the current rings, fit a narrow wide using single ring specific chainring bolts ( or fit a metal bash!).
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • Ybot321
    Ybot321 Posts: 8
    The Rookie wrote:
    Personally it's worth it, 3 of my 4 bikes are 1x, but it does depend on your usage. You can't use the ramped and pinned current chainwheel without issues, even with a single specific ring you would need a chainguide, but if you get a narrow wide you won't. So remove shifter cable and mech, remove the current rings, fit a narrow wide using single ring specific chainring bolts ( or fit a metal bash!).

    Thanks man, I'll be popping into the bike shop today to see what they have. Thanks for the advice!!
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    A bike shop will be pricey, the parts online will cost less than £20.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • Ybot321
    Ybot321 Posts: 8
    The Rookie wrote:
    A bike shop will be pricey, the parts online will cost less than £20.

    Ah okay, thanks.
  • Ybot321
    Ybot321 Posts: 8
    The Rookie wrote:
    A bike shop will be pricey, the parts online will cost less than £20.

    Can you link me to some parts that you suggest? Thanks
  • ade555
    ade555 Posts: 216
    What you looking for is narrow wide chain ring, also need to get single speed/ring bolts, most likely you will need 104 bcd bolt spacing but please post on here what type of crank you have. Your rear derailleur does it have clutch?

    Something like this

    Look at this on eBay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121809426133

    and

    Look at this on eBay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/131562276799

    Also check superstar components


    Video on how to do it

    https://youtu.be/YY59XNlk4e0
  • daff
    daff Posts: 81
    I've just done exactly this - and having completed two 20 mile rides since installing, I can honestly say it was worth it.

    I bought an 11 42 Sunrace cassette and coupled it with a superstar components 30 tooth N/W ring. Really easy to install and after a bit of fettling, shifting is pretty good. Cost me £38 for the cassette and £19 for the chain ring

    I was a bit dubious, particularly living in mid Wales as we have some nice big hills, but I tried to work out the best ratios for my normal rides and it seems to work well. Hills are no more of a struggle than they were to an unfit 40 something year old with a double or a triple and I also like the simple aesthetics of no front mech
  • Ybot321
    Ybot321 Posts: 8
    ade555 wrote:
    What you looking for is narrow wide chain ring, also need to get single speed/ring bolts, most likely you will need 104 bcd bolt spacing but please post on here what type of crank you have. Your rear derailleur does it have clutch?

    Something like this

    Look at this on eBay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121809426133

    and

    Look at this on eBay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/131562276799

    Also check superstar components


    Video on how to do it

    https://youtu.be/YY59XNlk4e0

    Thanks man, much appreciated for the links.
    My crank is the Shimano Deore Octalink. 4 bolt, 104mm. I'm not sure about the rear derailleur but I don't think so.
    daff wrote:
    I've just done exactly this - and having completed two 20 mile rides since installing, I can honestly say it was worth it.

    I bought an 11 42 Sunrace cassette and coupled it with a superstar components 30 tooth N/W ring. Really easy to install and after a bit of fettling, shifting is pretty good. Cost me £38 for the cassette and £19 for the chain ring

    I was a bit dubious, particularly living in mid Wales as we have some nice big hills, but I tried to work out the best ratios for my normal rides and it seems to work well. Hills are no more of a struggle than they were to an unfit 40 something year old with a double or a triple and I also like the simple aesthetics of no front mech

    Sounds great! Some friends recommended me a 32 tooth here in the Suffolk land. Love to ride in Wales soon, looks amazing. Was it an easy install or difficult?
  • ade555
    ade555 Posts: 216
    Fitting is simple in all honesty as longest you have few tools for removing the cassette, you most likely will need to set your B screw, indexing rear should be fine as you still use 10 speed cassette. Only think I would advice is get a new chain if yours done few miles is well but then you have new chain ring,cassette and chain

    Little bible about rear derailleur

    http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-hel ... adjustment

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