tiagra 4700 FD adjustment

chatlow
chatlow Posts: 848
edited May 2016 in Workshop
I've gone from Sora 9 speed to a §0 speed setup with Tiagra 4700 shifters. I've therefore lost the barrel adjustment. I need to get the cable a little tighter as it's not quite pulled the FD enough to reach the big ring.

Any ideas on a fix for this? My bike has internal cabling.

Comments

  • Bobbinogs
    Bobbinogs Posts: 4,841
    Surely to add a little more tension in the absence of any inline adjustment then you just need to shift to the small ring, slacken off the nut at the FD (holding the cable) and then pull the cable through a little bit more...tighten the nut and that's it.

    Not sure if there is a clever way for 4700 but I can't see how the above wouldn't work (albeit a little imprecise).
  • arlowood
    arlowood Posts: 2,561
    Bobbinogs wrote:
    Surely to add a little more tension in the absence of any inline adjustment then you just need to shift to the small ring, slacken off the nut at the FD (holding the cable) and then pull the cable through a little bit more...tighten the nut and that's it.

    That would seem to be the logical approach to the problem but I've seen comments elsewhere that suggest with the new design for the Shimano FD's now (6800 and 5800 first now 4700) I don't think it's possible to get sufficient tension in the cable by just pulling with a set of pliers.

    I think the OP might need to consider installing an in-line barrel adjuster on hid FD cable eg

    http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/shim ... prod131355

    Instruction video here for installation:-

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2zUhwdXj7wc
  • chatlow
    chatlow Posts: 848
    so after a bit of fiddling i fixed the issue. Rather than remove a section of cabling and fitting an adjuster which I will rarely use, I slackened off the cable, then pulled the FD towards the outer ring so it pivots back on itself at the joint. Then reattached a the cable at the same tension. As the FD then goes back to it's original position it tightens the cable even more.

    Took a few attempts to get it perfect and a little messing with the limit screws, but it's good.

    The only thing that's bugging me now (and I expected some possible issues with this) is that when it goes from big ring to small, i need to double tap the shifter so it quickly moves back past the in between trim and lands perfectly on the small ring. If I don't do this then because the crankset is 9 speed and everything is 10, the chain wants to land a little before the small ring and takes a second to align itself again. Won't cause a problem, just a bug I'd like to sort.
  • Semantik
    Semantik Posts: 537
    chatlow wrote:
    so after a bit of fiddling i fixed the issue. Rather than remove a section of cabling and fitting an adjuster which I will rarely use, I slackened off the cable, then pulled the FD towards the outer ring so it pivots back on itself at the joint. Then reattached a the cable at the same tension. As the FD then goes back to it's original position it tightens the cable even more.

    Took a few attempts to get it perfect and a little messing with the limit screws, but it's good.

    The only thing that's bugging me now (and I expected some possible issues with this) is that when it goes from big ring to small, i need to double tap the shifter so it quickly moves back past the in between trim and lands perfectly on the small ring. If I don't do this then because the crankset is 9 speed and everything is 10, the chain wants to land a little before the small ring and takes a second to align itself again. Won't cause a problem, just a bug I'd like to sort.

    Yep, had this same problem too. A 10 speed chainset was the only way to sort out the problem.

    Though some people on the following thread swore their front shifting was fine with the same setup.
    Perhaps their definition of 'fine shifting' is not the same as mine or yours.

    viewtopic.php?f=40004&t=13060637
  • trailflow
    trailflow Posts: 1,311
    chatlow wrote:
    so after a bit of fiddling i fixed the issue. Rather than remove a section of cabling and fitting an adjuster which I will rarely use, I slackened off the cable, then pulled the FD towards the outer ring so it pivots back on itself at the joint. Then reattached a the cable at the same tension. As the FD then goes back to it's original position it tightens the cable even more.

    Took a few attempts to get it perfect and a little messing with the limit screws, but it's good.

    The only thing that's bugging me now (and I expected some possible issues with this) is that when it goes from big ring to small, i need to double tap the shifter so it quickly moves back past the in between trim and lands perfectly on the small ring. If I don't do this then because the crankset is 9 speed and everything is 10, the chain wants to land a little before the small ring and takes a second to align itself again. Won't cause a problem, just a bug I'd like to sort.

    What you did is correct. You need to move the FD cage over the big ring then clamp the cable. Then release the FD cage back down to the inner ring position. You can use the low limit screw (inner screw) to do it (screwed all the way in so the outer edge of FD cage positions itself inline with the outer ring - then clamp the cable - then unscrew the low limit) or some people prefer to jam something in FD cage.

    a barrel adjuster should really be used to make fine further adjustments but not to acheive the initial tension. The method above is the best way to do that. a barrel adjuster can also be used to fine tune the feel at the lever of the inner ring trim.

    The quick double tapping of the downshift lever is normal and is necessary even 10 or 11 speed chainrings. As the cage will rub still on those set ups.

    Worth a try to see if your inner ring can be reversed to lessen the gap.
  • dgunthor
    dgunthor Posts: 644
    i always fit an inline adjuster as with a new cable it's going to need more tension at some point
  • dgunthor wrote:
    i always fit an inline adjuster as with a new cable it's going to need more tension at some point

    Out of interest, did you have any issue with chain rub?

    I recently installed 4700 RD, FD and shifters and even when trimming the FD, I get contact when on the big chain ring and in the 8th, 9th and 10th sprockets on the cassette (i.e. the 3 biggest).

    There is a black plastic insert in the FD that sticks out past the metal that doesn't help. I wonder if this is there to stop the chain contacting the metal or if it's just in the way?