Cassette cog lockring

its_woody_uk

I recently purchased a Cannondale Supersix and have decided to replace the stock wheels (Shimano RS11) with some Fulcrum Quattros.

I'm a mechanical novice but have looked at YouTube and it looks a reasonably simple task. My problem is, try as I might I cannot shift the lockring. Does anybody have any ideas?

Do I need to take it to a real man?

keezx

Buy a Shimano lockring key and chainwhip (not expensive), and watch youtube how to do it.

its_woody_uk

Keezx wrote:

Buy a Shimano lockring key and chainwhip (not expensive), and watch youtube how to do it.

I've tried that Keezx. Chainwhip 2 o'clock, lockring and spanner 10 o'clock but I just can't get it to move.

cougie

Get some extra leverage on it. Length of tubing? I find a garden hoe over the spanner makes it much easier.

arlowood

I've always gone down the route of using a lockring removal tool that can take a socket set square drive lever bar. Something like this



Available as above from Amazon

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Icetoolz-casse ... ng+remover

But similar types can be had from other sources.

You can then attach the removal tool like a normal socket spanner and that should give you more that enough leverage and will also be a safer way to apply the removal force than something like an open-ended spanner. Too many damaged and bruised knuckles when the open-ender slips as you apply pressure

drlodge

cougie wrote:

Get some extra leverage on it. Length of tubing? I find a garden hoe over the spanner makes it much easier.

Use a 12" adjustable spanner here, anything less won't cut it. These things can be on pretty tight and worse if corrosion has set it.

keef66

drlodge wrote:

cougie wrote:

Get some extra leverage on it. Length of tubing? I find a garden hoe over the spanner makes it much easier.

Use a 12" adjustable spanner here, anything less won't cut it. These things can be on pretty tight and worse if corrosion has set it.

+1 to this. I have a mahoosive adjustable spanner that I use for very little else. It holds the lockring tool securely and gives the neccessary leverage.

Or the socket handle.

I tend not to tighten them as much as the oft recommended 40 Nm though. I never think the threads look up to it...

dj58

arlowood wrote:

I've always gone down the route of using a lockring removal tool that can take a socket set square drive lever bar. Something like this



Available as above from Amazon

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Icetoolz-casse ... ng+remover

But similar types can be had from other sources.

You can then attach the removal tool like a normal socket spanner and that should give you more that enough leverage and will also be a safer way to apply the removal force than something like an open-ended spanner. Too many damaged and bruised knuckles when the open-ender slips as you apply pressure

This is the method I use as you can use a breaker bar or some other extension with it, the centre locating pin prevents the tool slipping out of the lock ring. I also have the Shimano lockring tool that can be used with a 1/2" square drive torque wrench and only tighten up to the low end 30Nm of the quoted torque figures.

slowbike

I use a (car) torque wrench on mine - gives you the leverage - then you can apply the force without worrying about slipping and scraping your knuckles on the spokes ...

but just check - you are undoing it anti-clockwise aren't you ...

crankycrank

If your cassette lockring tool allows it run your QR skewer through it and tighten just enough so the tool can't back out when applying pressure with the spanner. No worries of it popping out and stripping the LR teeth or your knuckles.

grenw

Never had a problem taking one off but if you're not careful then they can cross thread very easily when tightening up. Maybe yours is one of those?

fenix

They do have arrows on don't they so you'd be a bit of a muppet to get that wrong.

I always used to have the lockring tool that let you have the QR semi tightened in the wheel - no dramas in the tool slipping in the lockring then. The newer version with the long pin isn't too bad either.

its_woody_uk

Thank you for all the advice. A huge spanner and keeping the QR skewer inserted did the trick!

its_woody_uk

The bike was the smoothest running bike I've ever been on until I got my mucky paws on it. Now annoyingly after replacing the wheels the gears are screwed and the chain is noticeably noisy when peddling. Needs indexing do you think?

crankycrank

It's not unusual to have to index and re-set your limit screws with different wheels. Just a mm or two difference in where the cassette sits away from the dropout can have a big effect.

Kitz

May be a daft suggestion, but is the free hub on the new wheels designed for the same number of gears as the old wheels? If not you may need a spacer. A lot of the newer hubs are made for 11 speed which need a spacer to take a 10 speed cassette. If that's wrong the gears will be all kinds of messed up and sounding awful!

Also, how in the world did you get the cassette off with the QR still in? Where did the bit in the middle of the lock ring tool go? I find if you put the chain whip and tool at 9 and 3 o'clock and just apply your weight to them equally it'll go.

its_woody_uk

Hi Kitz - the hubs were like for like, so I just need to work out how to tweak things I guess.

As for the other, the lock ring is just a hollow bolt rather than a tool, so the QR just slid through.

AK_jnr

If the limit screws and hanger are all ok I imagine a small tweek on the barrel adjuster by the RD will sort it. In simplest terms, turn the adjuster the opposite way you want to move the chain. Chain up the cassette = adjuster towards you. Chain down = adjuster away.
Thats obviously as long as you have the bike on its wheels and not upside down. Lol.