Noob CXer needing guidance and suggestions on new build

myusername

Hello all! I am very happy to find this forum. The MTB and now Cycloross community is truly my "comfort zone"!

This forum sub section will be my new favorite forum to spend time in as I had only posted once in the forum when I joined Bikeradar last year after my ankle fusion surgery. I will add a link to that thread as an edit (if I can) after I post THIS new thread. I am just going to copy and paste what I have put up in another bike forum so if you have seen it already please forgive me.

Being that this is my first cross bike build I am appealing to those pro's and enthusiasts who have had personal experience. I am looking for some guidance to what would be the best value in a titanium cx frame for my new build. That and any other suggestions you good folks have regarding all parts EXCLUDING most of the Shimano 6800 group (pretty well set on FD RD cassette and shifters) that I intend to use on the new build.

Of course I know that saddles are a personal preference but what I am seeking is info on cyclocross specific things like headsets, stems, brakes (although I have been advised to go with Canti /Mini-V brakes for practicality and cost saving over disc brakes) and Speedplay pedal (thanks JOM!) like the Zero or SYZR changing from the SPD pedals I have always used going back to my MTB days in the early to mid 90's. The pedal and probable custom crankset will be a requirement due to the leg discrepancy (left leg 1in shorter than right) from the ankle fusion.

I welcome suggestion especially about reliable parts. As far as wheels and tires I am very much open to suggestion having lack of knowledge regarding what would be the best value QUALITY set for riding gravel and dirt rail trails mostly but ya never know when the woods and hills will be calling me back to my MTB days

Most of the time I have been riding this https://www.novaparks.com/parks/washing ... ional-park and will continue to ride it being that it is a literal stone's throw from my back yard. When I'm out with my niece on her new road bike I just bought her for her birthday I might want to have a cheap set of Kenda road tires and wheelset to throw on the CX bike an preserve the CX tires for ME!

I have a very capable http://archive.trekbikes.com/us/en/2006 ... 21/details for my road bike but if Im going to spend between 2 and 3k on a new build it might as well be a cross bike that will be the best of both worlds. Or just go with a budget cross build, strip the Trek for parts for my budget build cross bike and invest the dough in a 2016 badass road bike build? UGG! that's enough. I am one blabby SOB. Please forgive me for being a fence walker. Regards,

Matt

ugo.santalucia

Why titanium? It's such a small market that of CX frames in titanium... possibly Planet X pick and flick or whatever is called is the only reasonably priced one, or maybe something from Van Nicholas, but why titanium? It makes no sense.

For the groupset, I would source an old 9 or 10 speed Shimano one and pair it with a 9 speed MTB derailleur for extra mud clearance and cassette range. I have this set up and can use big cassettes, which are handy to go up steep banks. Road derailleurs are always clogged and when they do they snap off the mech hanger

trek_dan

Ti canti frame would be a custom built job, not sure there are any available on the market. I'd just look at alloy, also I'd really be considering SRAM (something like Rival 22 hydro with discs) if your planning on doing some mountain bike style routes. Personally I'm more than happy on Cantis but a full hydraulic disc setup should be pretty maintenance free.

myusername

ugo.santalucia wrote:

Why titanium? It's such a small market that of CX frames in titanium... possibly Planet X pick and flick or whatever is called is the only reasonably priced one, or maybe something from Van Nicholas, but why titanium? It makes no sense.

For the groupset, I would source an old 9 or 10 speed Shimano one and pair it with a 9 speed MTB derailleur for extra mud clearance and cassette range. I have this set up and can use big cassettes, which are handy to go up steep banks. Road derailleurs are always clogged and when they do they snap off the mech hanger

thanks for your reply but I rely don't want to start having to defend my reasons why I intend on using a particular frame material or certain drivetrain group. Lets say there is NO CHANGING MY MIND on what frame material or what type of drivetrain I intend on using. It was misleading to say I was a noob. I think some people take that to mean noobs know NOTHING about what they are trying to get info on. That being said I have already spent too much time trying to defend my reasons.

myusername

trek_dan wrote:

Ti canti frame would be a custom built job, not sure there are any available on the market. I'd just look at alloy, also I'd really be considering SRAM (something like Rival 22 hydro with discs) if your planning on doing some mountain bike style routes. Personally I'm more than happy on Cantis but a full hydraulic disc setup should be pretty maintenance free.

Oh sure I know by the amount of research I've done for the past few weeks that going with a disk brake system would be the easiest way to go. It seems that 90% or more of cyclocross bikes (whether they are custom built or mass manufactured) are equipped with either mech or hydraulic disc brake systems. I have also found that deciding to put a great deal of my investment into the frame (being that the frame is the cornerstone of a new build) that going with a canti brakes would be as effective as a disc brake system for the riding I intend on doing. I am a tech/mechanic by trade so maintenance is not a concern of mine. Here again is something I do not want to defend as it was suggested to me by a professional as a viable option due to the fact I will probably not be able (physically) to race because of my injury .

I did test ride a SRAM Rival equipped bike but being that my road bike has a mostly Ultegra drivetrain it is what I am comfortable with AND the shift method used with a SRAM group is awkward. (for me) Like being an American and all of the sudden driving on the RIGHT side of the road in Britain. I just doesn't feel NATURAL to me. Thanks for your reply,

Matt

ugo.santalucia

myusername wrote:

thanks for your reply but I rely don't want to start having to defend my reasons why I intend on using a particular frame material or certain drivetrain group. Lets say there is NO CHANGING MY MIND on what frame material or what type of drivetrain I intend on using. It was misleading to say I was a noob. I think some people take that to mean noobs know NOTHING about what they are trying to get info on. That being said I have already spent too much time trying to defend my reasons.

Fine. You have to ask Monty dog, he gets titanium frames made to measure from China at very good prices and rate them. It seems to me the sensible way to go, if you want a titanium frame with Cantis without spending the earth

trek_dan

If you'd already made your mind up exactly what you want then why ask?

fenix

If you're taking it into the mud I don't think Speedplay Zeros like it very much, Syzrs are better but much more expensive.
(I don't get this if you're talking about Cantis for cost savings ?)

It might be that most CX bikes are coming with discs but the split between cantis and discs at this years worlds seemed to be about 50/50 so discs aren't the be all and end all.

Stems and headsets - well they're not exactly cutting edge - get what floats your boat.

Tyres - depends on what terrain you're riding.

myusername

Fenix wrote:

If you're taking it into the mud I don't think Speedplay Zeros like it very much, Syzrs are better but much more expensive.
(I don't get this if you're talking about Cantis for cost savings ?)

It might be that most CX bikes are coming with discs but the split between cantis and discs at this years worlds seemed to be about 50/50 so discs aren't the be all and end all.

Stems and headsets - well they're not exactly cutting edge - get what floats your boat.

Tyres - depends on what terrain you're riding.

first of all thank for the reply. The suggestion to go with Cantis rather that discs (thought I mention it) was from a professional on another site. He said that they were considerably less expensive than disc brakes.

If you read my previous post I mentioned and included a link to where I intend on riding the W and OD trail where I live. Won't be riding in mud very often due to my injury.

fenix

I'm from Britain. If you go offroad here - you WILL be in mud. Even if you stay on the road - you'll probably be in mud at some point.... :-)

Chris James

I'm not sure that cantis are that much cheaper than mechanical disc brakes - Avid Shorty Ultimates and TRP Spyres are around the same price, for example.

If I was set on a titanium frame then personally I would look for a frame in my budget and buy the brakes to suit. You are making things hard for yourself if you fix on cantis right from the start.

I work on the principle that riding cross destroys your bike so favour the cheap and cheerful, so I would go for your second suggestion of a budget build and save your cash for a posh road bike.

For a bit of gravel riding, rather than cyclocross racing, then I can't see why the requirements would by any different to road riding / touring. The cycle path you linked appears to be totally paved so I would have thought your would want road tyres rather than CX tyres. Proper CX tyres roll more slowly on tarmac, and they tend to have no puncture protection so are only worth buying if you need grip for of road riding. If you go with a clincher wheelset then it is simple to change tyres anyway.

Chris James

Incidentally, if you are SURE you aren't going in any mud then mini v's give awesome braking compared to cantis. It also avoids any prospect of brake judder.

If you do go for cantis then I recommend you either have a beefy fork with a large crown diameter, or a fork with a mounting hole to allow you to fix an uphanger at the crown to avoid judder.

myusername

Chris James wrote:

I work on the principle that riding cross destroys your bike so favour the cheap and cheerful, so I would go for your second suggestion of a budget build and save your cash for a posh road bike.

For a bit of gravel riding, rather than cyclocross racing, then I can't see why the requirements would by any different to road riding / touring. The cycle path you linked appears to be totally paved so I would have thought your would want road tyres rather than CX tyres. Proper CX tyres roll more slowly on tarmac, and they tend to have no puncture protection so are only worth buying if you need grip for of road riding. If you go with a clincher wheelset then it is simple to change tyres anyway.

Chris you are making a lot of sense. Being a MTB'er from way back the itch I have to to go off-road again is a powerful one. I don't believe I will ever be able STAND on any bike that I ride again (a big reason being my leg discrepancy). That is why I initially decided to build a cross bike and not a full suspension MTB. My 2006 Trek Pilot 2.1 is in great shape and will be even sweeter after I install the new Conti GP 4000 II's I just got yesterday.

The W and OD trail has miles of gravel, dirt and even a MTB course (down close to a rock quarry that is just off the paved path) that you see in that link. If you were to go deeper into the site I think your will find a map of the MTB-ing course/trails. The beauty of that place is it has a great variety of trails and paths both paved and unpaved.

Maybe I should just put together (and again it is about the BUILD for me) the best value cx/gravel bike I can. Look I KNOW there are some great deals both new and used to be had because of the new popularity of cx/gravel bike. I can't mention it enough about wanting to build it myself.

Then I will build a "posh road bike" as you said after I get back into my true riding shape. It is going to take me some time to rebuild the strength in my leg after my ankle fusion

Chris James

Yes, it is satisfying building your own bike. I built up my cross bike for the same reason. Even if the bike is full of value bits rather than top of the range stuff then it is nice to know that you selected every bit for a specific reason. Also, if you buy a nice frame and hang some cheaper parts on it then you an always upgrade the bike over a period as the cheaper parts begin to wear.

Pross

Are you having the frame custom built? I would suggest Sturdy Cycles for a custom built frame, very bespoke and top bloke but I don't think he builds with titanium yet. If you do have a change of heart and consider steel have a look at his website - the paint jobs are superb too.

Edit realise you're not in the UK now such not much use sorry!

myusername

Pross wrote:

Are you having the frame custom built? I would suggest Sturdy Cycles for a custom built frame, very bespoke and top bloke but I don't think he builds with titanium yet. If you do have a change of heart and consider steel have a look at his website - the paint jobs are superb too.

Edit realise you're not in the UK now such not much use sorry!

Thanks so much for the suggestion. I will look him up and make certain I give him a bookmark