First ride

Ibaz
Ibaz Posts: 37
edited May 2016 in Road beginners
Hi all.
I originally joined because I wanted to start riding again but all I've managed to post up to now is about fixing my wife's MTB.
But anyway...
I've just bought my first road bike. A 2013 Trek Alpha 1.5.
I know it's an entry level bike (but hey I'm a beginer.)
I took it out for the first time yesterday and i noticed a couple of things. Advice on any of the below would be welcome.
Harsh ride. Tyres are just over 100psi is this too hard?
They are the standard Bontrager 23c tyres, but the bike came with a set of Schwalbe Durano at 25c would they help?
The bike also came with a pair of Shimano R451 brake calipers - would I gain any thing by fitting them? The brakes seem ok, but I was hoping for more in the stopping department.
Next, my wrists ache like mad. Hoping I just need to man up or is it more likely to be the setup/position?I was mostly riding over the lever goods, not brave enough for the drops yet.
The bike also seems to be very twitchy - great in a straight line but all over the place when I go to signal. Some will be me but it seems a lot worse than when I last ride (a Reynolds 531 framed Claude Butler, 25 years ago)
Thank you!

Comments

  • Ibaz
    Ibaz Posts: 37
    Muppet duplicate post :shock:
  • kajjal
    kajjal Posts: 3,380
    Until you get used to the handling, road bikes can be a bit unstable.

    Fitting 25mm tyres will soften up the ride a bit, 23mm tyres are real bone shakers.

    I think the bike has normal rather than long drop brakes so 105 or better brakes would be an improvement.
  • pilot_pete
    pilot_pete Posts: 2,120
    Wrist ache is more than likely fit/ set up. Get a picture side on of yourself on the bike with hands naturally on the hoods. A proper bike fit starts at the pedals and works up your body to saddle and then out to hands.

    It is a bit complicated to explain it all in one post, but if the ball of your foot is over the pedal spindle and the underside of your knee cap is over the pedal spindle (drop a plumb line) with the pedal full forward and pedal arm horizontal with the ground, that is the first adjustment.

    Then you want an angle of around 35 degrees between ankle bone, knee and hip when the pedal arm is at the bottom of the stroke. Once you have this and the knee is still over the pedal spindle as previously, then you are getting close to your 'back end' being in the right position. This will require adjustments to cleats on shoes, saddle up and down and fore and aft.

    Now in your natural riding position on the hoods take a look at the angle between your torso and arms. You want roughly 90 degrees with a slight bend at the elbows. Then look at your wrists. Are they 'straight' in the natural position when you hold the hoods or are they 'cocked' either way off line? Now hold the drops in the natural position. Again, are your wrists in line or cocked? The idea is to get the wrists straight in these positions to prevent pressure.

    These adjustments will require stem up and down (adding or removing spacers) or even a different length stem to adjust for reach, and then handlebar rotation (to get the drops grip correct) and rotation of the levers around the bars to get the hoods position correct.

    It does help if you can get someone who knows what they are doing to take the measurements and do the adjustments if you are not sure. Where abouts are you? If you are within travelling distance of J17/18 of the M6 I can have a go for you. I only charge a decent bottle of red! ;-)
  • Ibaz
    Ibaz Posts: 37
    Pilot Pete Thank you
    That would be superb.feeling well out of my depth at the minute.
    I'm about 90 minutes from you can we arranged somthing for a beer weekend please?
    Cheers
    Ian
  • pilot_pete
    pilot_pete Posts: 2,120
    Ian

    You have PM.

    Pete
  • Ibaz
    Ibaz Posts: 37
    A big thanks to Pete for doing a bike fit for for me. I did a short 10 mile ride this morning and what a difference.
    Thank you!
    :D:D
  • seanorawe
    seanorawe Posts: 950
    Wrists can also hurt depending on what STI levers you have. I couldnt get on with any older Sora or Tiagra levers. But 105,ultegra or any other sram STI's were much better. This obviously is assuming your saddle is not tilting down too much. As for 23mm tyres, I always hated them, 25 as a minimum for me. The plumb line for the knee over pedal spindle you have to be careful with. Its a good starting point for most people. I was unlucky and found this starting point to be way off. A decent bike fit by a knowledgeable fitter would be money well spent depending on your desire to continue cycling. Or tons of research and trial and error. Good luck and happy cycling my friend.
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