check out my bike fit......

kingrollo

See below the first 2 pics in the high vis jacket- is the one where I had a pro bike fit done - that position is fine (for me) - I am trying to replicate that position on my commuting\winter bike.

I think I am pretty close - but the 2nd bike (giant) doesn't feel quite as good as the kouta - any tips, I really can't go spending another £150 on another pro fit .....

napoleond

You look very upright but arms a little straight/ stretched.

However, it looks ok but it's impossible to tell from photos really.

ravey1981

Probably obvious but have you used a tape measure? If the seat tube angles are the same measure centre of bb to top of saddle, transfer that measurement. Make sure saddle is slid forward/back to the same point on each bike. You can then triangulate the position on the stem/bar clamp from the bb and a fixed point on your saddle. This is how I transferred my setup from one bike to another... Obviously this relies on seat angle being the same. Other things affect feel too, different makes of bars have a different reach to the hoods etc. Sometimes you can have everything the same and it just feels different though....

kingrollo

ravey1981 wrote:

Probably obvious but have you used a tape measure? If the seat tube angles are the same measure centre of bb to top of saddle, transfer that measurement. Make sure saddle is slid forward/back to the same point on each bike. You can then triangulate the position on the stem/bar clamp from the bb and a fixed point on your saddle. This is how I transferred my setup from one bike to another... Obviously this relies on seat angle being the same. Other things affect feel too, different makes of bars have a different reach to the hoods etc. Sometimes you can have everything the same and it just feels different though....

Pretty sure the angles aren't the same ! - but yes the basic measurements are pretty damm close - my instinct is to raise the saddle on the giant (2nd bike) as I 'feel' to low....

I just posted them up here in case I had missed anything obvious...

sloppyschleckonds

One thing to look at is your left knee distance from the stem/ elbow.
Maybe seatpost up a bit and back a bit?

debeli

King Rollo, I feel for you but you will not hear what you need to hear by posting a few still images on a cycling forum.

The answer is closer to hand. If you have access to a tape measure, a plumb line, a spirit level and a little patience, you can replicate one set-up on the other bicycle.

Start by replicating the seat height (giving some thought to variation between different pedal/cleat types).

Then replicate the fore-aft movement of the saddle and the tilt of the saddle - often horizontal, but worth checking.

Now you have merely to replicate the horizontal distance and drop to your bars. So many bars are available these days in so many shapes that you may want to use a particular hand position as your 'constant' - i.e. on the hoods as in your photos.

Different bicycles do feel different to ride - and a lot of the apparent difference is fairly subjective.

The tape measure, the plumb line and the spirit level do not lie. You can achieve the same geometry this way, and maybe chuck out a few quid on this or that longer/shorter/fatter stem.

It will always feel different - it is a different bicycle, but getting people to look at snaps online will avail you little.

giropaul

Start from the centre of the bottom bracket as your fixed point. Set saddle height and set- back from that. Then reach and difference in height saddle to bars.
Make sure your cranks and bars are the same dimensions, otherwise adjust accordingly.

darkhairedlord

As debeli says, use a plumb and spirit level. Put the bike on a flat surface and measure the height from floor to the bb. Then measure floor to saddle and subtract bb height. Take price of cardboard and cut a slot 80mm wide and slide along the saddle before marking off with tape. Measure the distance back from a vertical datum running through the bb. Measure height of bars where they meet the stem and subtract bb height. Measure horizontal distance here from the bb. Transfer all measurements to the second bike. Use the same bars on both bikes. Something as simple as different shifters will put you on a different position.

StillGoing

As long as the crank arms are the same length on both bikes, going from centre of BB to top of seat is correct. If they are differing lengths, go from the pedal at bottom of the rotation to the top of the seat. For replicating the saddle position fore and aft, back the bike up to a wall and measure from the wall to the front of the saddle. Transfer this distance to your other bike. Same goes for the bars.

In the last set of pictures, your saddle looks too low judging by the angle in your leg at full extension.

Alex99

philthy3 wrote:

As long as the crank arms are the same length on both bikes, going from centre of BB to top of seat is correct. If they are differing lengths, go from the pedal at bottom of the rotation to the top of the seat. For replicating the saddle position fore and aft, back the bike up to a wall and measure from the wall to the front of the saddle. Transfer this distance to your other bike. Same goes for the bars.

In the last set of pictures, your saddle looks too low judging by the angle in your leg at full extension.

What these guys/gals have said is the way to go (work from the BB with a plumb line etc...). I'd just add that unless you've got the same model saddle on both, then that can be a major source of variation. Where would you measure to on each saddle? Where exactly do you sit on each saddle and with what pelvic rotation? It could be cm's difference, so just keep that in mind.