Conversion to 1x11

costica88
costica88 Posts: 12
edited April 2016 in MTB buying advice
Hello fellow riders,

I imagine this subject has already been discussed to death, but still was hoping to get some input from more experienced riders. I currently have a Canyon Nerve 7.9(specs below) and would like to transform it into a more capable trail bike. I ride mostly trail and AM from time to time.

I am contemplating whether a conversion to 1x11 would make sense for a more aggresive trail riding style? Is my current setup too underwhelming?

Looking forward for your feedback. Thanks!

Rear Shock FOX Float CTD Performance BV
Fork FOX 32 Float 29 CTD Evolution, Air Suspension, Tapered Steerer, 15mm Thru-Axle
Fork/Shock Travel 120mm
Headset Cane Creek Serie 40
Handlebar Easton Haven Carbon 740mm
Stem Ritchey WCS Trail 70mm
Brakes XT M8000
Shifters Shimano SLX SL-M670, 10-Speed, 2-Way Release, Rapidfire Plus System
Front Derailleur Shimano SLX E-Type 3x10
Rear Derailleur Shimano Deore XT Shadow +, 10-Speed, Long Cage
Cranks Shimano SLX FC-M672, Hollowtech II Design
Chainrings 40/30/22 Tooth
Cassette Shimano CS-HG 62, 10-Speed, 11-36 Tooth
Rims DT Swiss Spline M1900, Alloy
Hubs DT Swiss Spline M1900, IS (6-Bolt) Brake Mount
Spokes DT Champion Spokes, DT Pro Lock Nipple
Tires Schwalbe Rocket Ron 29" x 2.25“ Front // Racing Ralph 29" x 2.25“ Evolution Rear

Comments

  • oodboo
    oodboo Posts: 2,171
    If your gears are worn and or your chain/cassette is due for replacing then consider it. It does simplify your riding as it's less to think about.
    I love horses, best of all the animals. I love horses, they're my friends.

    Strava
  • costica88
    costica88 Posts: 12
    oodboo wrote:
    If your gears are worn and or your chain/cassette is due for replacing then consider it. It does simplify your riding as it's less to think about.

    Thanks! That is what I was also thinking. The weight reduction and ease of use would make the riding more fun.
  • jimothy78
    jimothy78 Posts: 1,407
    Why not try out a 1x10 system first to see how you get on with it, and what (if any) extra gears you would need, before you splash loads of cash on 11speed.

    Sunrace do an 11-42T 10-speed cassette, which you can pick up for about £45. With a narrow-wide chainring for about £20 (which you can keep even if you eventually decide to go to 11-speed), that's all you'll need to give it a go - you can use your existing rear mech and right shifter, and save yourself a couple of hundred quid!
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    I'd agree, you have the choice of the MS3 which is cheaper, or for a bit more the much lighter MX3 (you may think it ideal and not bother changing!).
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • costica88
    costica88 Posts: 12
    jimothy78 wrote:
    Why not try out a 1x10 system first to see how you get on with it, and what (if any) extra gears you would need, before you splash loads of cash on 11speed.

    Sunrace do an 11-42T 10-speed cassette, which you can pick up for about £45. With a narrow-wide chainring for about £20 (which you can keep even if you eventually decide to go to 11-speed), that's all you'll need to give it a go - you can use your existing rear mech and right shifter, and save yourself a couple of hundred quid!

    I see your point. I would also have to invest in a single-ring crank, since I am currently running 3x10. My biggest fear would be how I would be able to cope on climbs. But I am rarely changing to the small ring on the crank, so maybe I'm just overreacting.

    Thanks for the advice!
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    No need to change the crank, the single ring goes in the middle position!
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • kickaxe
    kickaxe Posts: 446
    The Rookie wrote:
    No need to change the crank, the single ring goes in the middle!

    Just wondering, where does it go on a double? Inside?
    -Cube Acid 29" 2013
    -A new Giant Trance 3 2015!
  • jimothy78
    jimothy78 Posts: 1,407
    Kickaxe wrote:
    The Rookie wrote:
    No need to change the crank, the single ring goes in the middle!

    Just wondering, where does it go on a double? Inside?

    No - if you're fitting a single ring onto a double-specific crankset, then it goes where the outer (larger) ring was. The chainline (distance from the centre of the frame to the chainring) isn't ideal in this situation, but tends to work just fine.
  • kickaxe
    kickaxe Posts: 446
    I'd have to have a look at mine, but makes sense. Also the bcd is more conventional for a 32t on the outer position
    -Cube Acid 29" 2013
    -A new Giant Trance 3 2015!
  • jimothy78
    jimothy78 Posts: 1,407
    Kickaxe wrote:
    I'd have to have a look at mine, but makes sense. Also the bcd is more conventional for a 32t on the outer position

    Exactly - most narrow/wide manufacturers have now accepted the "standard" set by Shimano ages ago at 104mm BCD for their outer/middle rings. There are notable exceptions, but I'm certainly not aware of any which are designed to replace a Granny ring!

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