New Wheel - Freehub/Cassette Wobble - Whats Acceptable?

wolfsbane2k

Hi.
Just received my "replacement wheel", aka £35 of junk, under warranty from Decathlon for my Triban 500SE, and it's got what I would describe as a shocking amount of cassette/freehub wobble on it - so much so that it's unbalancing the wheel, and causing the pedals to move approx. 3 degrees when coasting. The original wheel had almost no freehub wobble on it, just a completely knackered cup on the freewheel.

I'm of the opinion that this is "unacceptable" under the SOGA - however I can't find any specific tolerances that I would match this against, and since it's been built by a "trained cycle maintainer", if DC decided to decline, I'm not sure how I would "prove" it's unacceptable.

Any ideas/specifications greatly appreciated.

Bobbinogs

This is really easy, there should be no play in the cassette whatsoever.

Just be sure that this isn't a beginner's issue though, like not tightening the QRs properly or omitting a 10sp spacer on an 11sp hub, or not setting the cassette properly and/or not tightening the lockseal enough, etc.

buckmulligan

That's not entirely true. Certain freehubs are designed to have a bit of play in them which ultimately manifests itself as wobble in the cassette. See my post from many years ago here:

viewtopic.php?f=10004&t=12924257

How is the cassette wobble causing the pedals to move under coasting? Either way, if it's notably worse than the old one then it's probably just poor manufacturing tolerances. I'd send it back again and keep your fingers crossed for one that's better. I doubt a big chain-store like Decathlon would put up much resistance.

wolfsbane2k

Bobbinogs wrote:

This is really easy, there should be no play in the cassette whatsoever.

Just be sure that this isn't a beginner's issue though, like not tightening the QRs properly or omitting a 10sp spacer on an 11sp hub, or not setting the cassette properly and/or not tightening the lockseal enough, etc.

Thanks for the response. It's not "play" - aka lateral movement, it's full on freehub wobble due to off-axial manufacturing issues, as in it looks like https://youtu.be/6C9_dvfQNP8?t=1m22s ( not my video)

DC staff built the wheel, transferring all that stuff, and a at 8sp, so would expect them to do it "properly".

wolfsbane2k

BuckMulligan wrote:

That's not entirely true. Certain freehubs are designed to have a bit of play in them which ultimately manifests itself as wobble in the cassette. See my post from many years ago here:

viewtopic.php?f=10004&t=12924257

How is the cassette wobble causing the pedals to move under coasting? Either way, if it's notably worse than the old one then it's probably just poor manufacturing tolerances. I'd send it back again and keep your fingers crossed for one that's better. I doubt a big chain-store like Decathlon would put up much resistance.

Aye, I'm aware that "some" play is normal, but this is just awful. I'll video it tonight and upload for prosperity.
Of course, I've just realised that I've said "I would expect a trained person to put the wheel on properly", but they did forget the flipping rim tape, so this morning's commute was rudely abrupted and since I don't have any at home, today became a PT day... :evil:

I'll check again once the kids are in bed.

wolfsbane2k

Stripped it down last night, didn't notice anything wrong in the way it was put together, and put it back together to ride today, feels better but still there - probably a 1-2 mm lateral "rock" as it rotates, and can physically see the chain moving with it , again 1 or 2 mm when compared to the FD but can't get the video to upload.
Didn't really notice it while riding, so will just closely monitor the situation.

Thanks for reading and commenting.