Switching hyraulic brakes over to right hand front?

skooter
skooter Posts: 264
edited April 2016 in MTB workshop & tech
I made a bit of a gaff when I ordered some XT brakes but ordered left front and right rear as I live in Spain but want to change to the UK style of front right and rear left brakes..
The brakes are not on the bike yet so just as you would buy them?

So I hold the brake unit upwards with the caliper is on the floor unscrew the lever connector and pull out the pipe out, do the same on the other unit with the help of a 3rd pair of hands keeping the pipe upright.
Then remove the olive's replace new olives swop the levers over then push home the pipe into the lever and screw up then repeat the other side.

Is that about right?
Cheers

Comments

  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    Pretty much but I would have a blled kit handy just in case.
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  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    You pump the Pistons out before doing the swap, the. When you push them back you push any air that got into the hoses back up into the reservoir.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • Antm81
    Antm81 Posts: 1,406
    Epic bleed solutions have a good tutorial, it's pretty easy, I managed to remove the hose from my lever and run it though the internal routing on my frame without needing a bleed.
  • jimothy78
    jimothy78 Posts: 1,407
    Bear in mind that if they're new brakes, you'll probably want to shorten the hoses while you're at it - so check the lengths you need to remove first, and do that at the same time.
  • skooter
    skooter Posts: 264
    Thanks for your help.

    The reason I'm doing this is I have a problem with the routing on my Caad 10 disc frame and when I got it from evans they said I could fit either mechanical or hydraulic brake so I might have to take it to evans and ask how you feed the rear brake pipe through. But I only want evans to look at the rear brake which they will bleed but I dont want a £25 charge for bleeding both when I can do it myself.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    You usually feed an inner cable through and then slide the outer up along it through the frame using the inner as a guide., with hydraulic brakes this will definitely mean a bleed is required.

    Those CAAD X frames were very tempting, I nearly bought one to reframe my commuter.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • Antm81
    Antm81 Posts: 1,406
    The Rookie wrote:
    You usually feed an inner cable through and then slide the outer up along it through the frame using the inner as a guide., with hydraulic brakes this will definitely mean a bleed is required.

    Those CAAD X frames were very tempting, I nearly bought one to reframe my commuter.

    Not necessarily, depends on the design, if it's a straight run and holes in the frame are large enough, you don't need a guide, I just used fed the hose up the downtube and then fished it out at the top, fitted a new olive and barb and reconnected, worked perfectly.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Hence usually.

    The CAADX almost certainly will as the rear brake hose routes into the chainstay and via the BB and out by the headtube.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • skooter
    skooter Posts: 264
    The Rookie wrote:
    You usually feed an inner cable through and then slide the outer up along it through the frame using the inner as a guide., with hydraulic brakes this will definitely mean a bleed is required.

    Those CAAD X frames were very tempting, I nearly bought one to reframe my commuter.

    [url]105r5fa.jpg[/url]

    Here's the frame which I got from evans at £369 which I thought was a great price including forks it weighs 1540g

    I will have to bleed the brakes.

    Its the cable bracket that fits into the frame under the BB thats set up for mechanical disc there seems to be no way of securing a hydraulic cable not unless Cannondale do a hydraulic bracket and a mechanical bracket.
  • skooter
    skooter Posts: 264
    Antm81 wrote:
    Epic bleed solutions have a good tutorial, it's pretty easy, I managed to remove the hose from my lever and run it though the internal routing on my frame without needing a bleed.

    I did shorten a hydraulic hose a few weeks back with great results and no re -bleed.
    But I have never just swopped right to left levers on the own.
  • Antm81
    Antm81 Posts: 1,406
    The Rookie wrote:
    Hence usually.

    The CAADX almost certainly will as the rear brake hose routes into the chainstay and via the BB and out by the headtube.

    You didn't say usually though did you, said it would definitely need a bleed
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    If he has to use the inner as a guide he will definitely need a bleed...read what I wrote!
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.