Spyre barrel adjuster problem

kingofthetailwind

I'm having problems adjusting the rear TRP Spyre on my GT. The brake lever has gradually bottomed out against the bars. I've used the pad adjustment to get the pads as close to the rotor as possible but there's still way too much travel in the lever. So I want to increase the cable tension, but barrel adjuster at the caliper won't work. When I try to screw it out to increase tension it rotates the cable housing and then the barrel spins back to where it was before I started screwing it out. It will screw in OK. I've tried unclamping the cable, pulling it as tight as I can and reclamping the cable but it's still not taking up enough slack.

Any ideas what the problem could be?

sungod

if the ferrule/housing is binding or has seized in the adjuster preventing use of the adjuster, you need remove it, fix whatever is causing it, then re-assemble

kingofthetailwind

Fitted a new housing and cable. The adjuster moves more freely now, but still isn't having any effect on cable tension! I'll maybe try and fund an inline adjuster.

sungod

unless the adjuster is broken, all that an inline adjuster will do is add complication and risk of poorer braking

it sounds like you are not getting enough tension when clamping the cable

when you fit new outer etc. it needs to be fully seated, which takes a lot of force, otherwise the cable tension soon drops (sometimes misinterpreted as 'cable stretch')

set adjuster at maximum tension, pull hard on lever a few times and wiggle the outer to get it fully seated at each end, then set adjuster at minimum tension, loosen cable and reclamp under tension, repeat if necessary

sandyballs

Some of the barrel adjusters have a plastic body over a splined metal inner. When you get to the outer limit the plastic is no longer in contact with the splines and so will not turn the inner metal body. The Spring between the two will cause what you are experiencing with the plastic spinning back into place. Also when you are pulling the cable tight are you also manually moving the lever arm to take up the slack if not you are simply leaving all the movement still in the system.

Ensure that the barrel adjuster is fully wound in, undo the cable clamp and whilst moving the lever arm to apply the brake reclamp taking up the cable slack. Use adjuster as required. Hope all that makes sense.

kingofthetailwind

Sandyballs wrote:

Some of the barrel adjusters have a plastic body over a splined metal inner. When you get to the outer limit the plastic is no longer in contact with the splines and so will not turn the inner metal body. The Spring between the two will cause what you are experiencing with the plastic spinning back into place. Also when you are pulling the cable tight are you also manually moving the lever arm to take up the slack if not you are simply leaving all the movement still in the system.

Ensure that the barrel adjuster is fully wound in, undo the cable clamp and whilst moving the lever arm to apply the brake reclamp taking up the cable slack. Use adjuster as required. Hope all that makes sense.

I had read somewhere not to actuate the arm before clamping the cable as this can reduce braking force - the caliper needs to be able to use it's full range of movement. But then I read the actual TRP instructions and it does say to actuate the arm slightly. I had to actuate it a lot to get enough cable tension. But it seems to have worked. Still a little too much lever throw but it's not bottoming out. And it's easily locking the rear wheel now.

Even fully wound in, arm actuated, cable clamped, and then wound out the adjuster is still having next to no effect. Weird, but at least it's working now.

Thanks for the replies all.