KMC Z51 Chain - how to install?
annoyingtwit
Posts: 127
I've bought a KMC Z51 chain, which is still coming through the post.
I've just noticed on the ebay listing that it doesn't come with a missing link. How do I install it? Do I remove links and then put them back together with my chain tool? Or, do I need a missing link for this chain?
I've just noticed on the ebay listing that it doesn't come with a missing link. How do I install it? Do I remove links and then put them back together with my chain tool? Or, do I need a missing link for this chain?
0
Comments
-
Hi,
You just need the quick link that matches the speed, so 7 or 8 speed in your case?0 -
AnnoyingTwit wrote:I've bought a KMC Z51 chain, which is still coming through the post.
I've just noticed on the ebay listing that it doesn't come with a missing link. How do I install it? Do I remove links and then put them back together with my chain tool? Or, do I need a missing link for this chain?
you can just cut it to length then re-rivet it together with your chain tool. you don't need a missing link.
They weren't around when everything was 7 speed...0 -
Just because they didnt have the quick link back in the day, why would you stay in the stone ages and not want to take your chain off with ease?0
-
Thank you for the replies.
I've ordered some quick links. Though, I'm curious to try the reconnect with the chain tool method. I'm going to use the chain tool, but clearly and permanently mark the place where I reconnected the chain. That way, I can re-break the chain there, and insert a quick link at some time in the (probably near) future.
This is for a bike that I'm practicing bike maintenance on. So, experimentation is more important than the result. (The bike cost me £65 some time ago, and I've spent about that much on new bits for it - so far.)0 -
AnnoyingTwit wrote:Thank you for the replies.
I've ordered some quick links. Though, I'm curious to try the reconnect with the chain tool method. I'm going to use the chain tool, but clearly and permanently mark the place where I reconnected the chain. That way, I can re-break the chain there, and insert a quick link at some time in the (probably near) future.
This is for a bike that I'm practicing bike maintenance on. So, experimentation is more important than the result. (The bike cost me £65 some time ago, and I've spent about that much on new bits for it - so far.)
If you are going to use the chain tool method use a new pin to reconnect . old used pins can easily fall out0 -
Hmmm.... I don't have a new pin, I only have the chain. My new chain, freewheel, and derailleur are sitting in Argos waiting for me to pick them up, and I really wanted to give this work a go tonight. I'll use old pins today, and replace the link with a missing link when they arrive later this week or next week. I'll not ride the bike too much on the reused pin chain.0
-
From the Parktools website:
Some chains, including Shimano®, use chain rivets which are peened. This creates a “mushroom” effect at the ends of the rivets, which adds to the strength of the chain side plates. When a rivet is pressed even partially out, this peening is sheared off on the side pressed by the chain tool. If this rivet were reused, it would create a weak link at that rivet.0 -
Bobbinogs wrote:From the Parktools website:
Some chains, including Shimano®, use chain rivets which are peened. This creates a “mushroom” effect at the ends of the rivets, which adds to the strength of the chain side plates. When a rivet is pressed even partially out, this peening is sheared off on the side pressed by the chain tool. If this rivet were reused, it would create a weak link at that rivet.
That only seemed to appear when chains went to 10 speed. Before that I'd been merrily pushing out and reinserting pins with ease. On 5-8 speed MTBs anyway. When I got my new 10 speed equipped road bike the first time I tried to break the chain I bent my old chain tool like a banana. Eventually using pliers to gain more purchase, I pushed out the pin and shaved off that little ring of metal. Clearly not reusable!
And now I have a Park tools Chain Brute to make light work of shortening 10 speed chains0 -
And why would you want to spend almost the same price as the chain again on a quick link when joining the chain and breaking it again is an absolute doddle using a chain tool? Perhaps you need to brush up on your mechanical skills, junior.AK_jnr wrote:Just because they didnt have the quick link back in the day, why would you stay in the stone ages and not want to take your chain off with ease?0 -
AnnoyingTwit wrote:Hmmm.... I don't have a new pin, I only have the chain. My new chain, freewheel, and derailleur are sitting in Argos waiting for me to pick them up, and I really wanted to give this work a go tonight. I'll use old pins today, and replace the link with a missing link when they arrive later this week or next week. I'll not ride the bike too much on the reused pin chain.
You don't need a new pin!
Break the chain to the length you want by driving out a rivet as far as the side plate on the opposite side but don't drive the rivet out completely .you can then rejoin the chain using the same rivet. It will not be weakened in any way. this was the ONLY way you could rejoin a chain at one time. sure there will be loads of youtube vids that can help you if you are struggling.
This obsession with quicklinks for all chains is completely unnecessary. A lot of people prefer a riveted chain rather than a quicklink. A 6/7/8 speed chain does not need a quicklink and can be broken or rejoined anywhere on its length. though you wouldn't break it at the same rivet twice, but then there would be no need to.
Here you go:
http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-hel ... -section-30 -
Semantik is right. I've just checked on SJS Cycles site and they say the Z51 is supplied with the end pin pushed out. Therefore, you use your chaintool to shorten to length on the other side, press the shortened end into place in the link with end pin pushed out, then use your chaintool to press the pushed out end pin into place. Check if connected bit moves smoothly. If not, use the spreader slot on chaintool to push side plates out a fraction. If no spreader slot on your tool, you can waggle it by hand to free up the link.
It's a doddle. This is what we all did before quick links came on the scene. It's what I still do with the nine speed Campag Record chains I use on my tourer. As has been said, it's the modern narrower 10 and 11 speed chains with flush peened pins which need special joining pins and quick links.0 -
Yes - Having picked it up from Argos on the way back from work: I've just checked my chain, and it has the end pin pushed out. Problem all solved. The missing links won't be a wasted purchase, I've been wanting to have more of them to carry on long journeys.
I haven't practice joining chains like this. When I replaced the chain on my single speed, I practiced joining the chain on the full length before I shortened it can installed it using the missing link that came with it. I'm confident that I can do it.0 -
Chain successfully installed. I had a LOT of trouble installing the derailleur, but think I'm there now. Thanks for the help.0
-
AnnoyingTwit wrote:Chain successfully installed. I had a LOT of trouble installing the derailleur, but think I'm there now. Thanks for the help.
Glad you sorted it.0
