Belts are not lasting as long as originally claimed, hub gears work Ok, some people don't like the extra weight at the rear, also the 8 speed have a bit of a gap between some of the ratios that you get, but if you 'get it' then they are good for a commuter.
Price isnt mentioned though.....
Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
I had a Civia Bryant a few years ago; belt drive, alfine hub, rack, guards and discs. It was for my wife and I to share and for me to commute on when the weather was really bad.
As has been mentioned, it was very heavy at the back and there were some weird gaps in the gearing. Changing an innertube is a massive pain, so I'd only recommend Marathon Plus tyres which completely ruined the ride. Also getting the belt tension right after making a change by the road side was an ache; I got it wrong and snapped one. Literal ball ache. Had to walk home as there wasn't anything you could do to effect a repair.
I wouldn't do it again.
Mud - Genesis Vapour CCX
Race - Fuji Norcom Straight
Sun - Cervelo R3
Winter / Commute - Dolan ADX
It looks to be simpler on that Focus as it's using vertical drop outs, but that does make me wonder how easy it is to get the belt on and off the rear sprocket.
My Civia used horizontal drop-outs so you had to unbolt the axle, loosen and remove the chain tugs, remove the shifter cable from it's slot on the side of the hub and then pull the wheel out. You only needed to undo the coupler on the seat stay if you wanted to take the belt off. Getting the shifter cable in and out was tricky and I used to keep needle-nose pliers in my pannier just in case (on a freezing snowy day they were a god send).
Using horizontal dropouts meant that you could put the belt on slack and then adjust the tension. Using vertical drop outs means that the belt will be under it's desired tension as you either put it onto the sprocket or as you put the axle into the drop-outs. Not sure what the prefered technique it.
I understand that belts have changed a little since I had one and they now have a central track as opposed to just teeth so that might make things easier or harder, depending on how you are supposed to do it.
I'd ask to try it first, or at least get a demo.
Also, thinking about it, it felt to me like there was a lot of transmission loss in an Alfine hub, certainly more than a rear mech.
Mud - Genesis Vapour CCX
Race - Fuji Norcom Straight
Sun - Cervelo R3
Winter / Commute - Dolan ADX
Posts
Price isnt mentioned though.....
loved it.
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
This will be a commuter and family bike ride bike…
As has been mentioned, it was very heavy at the back and there were some weird gaps in the gearing. Changing an innertube is a massive pain, so I'd only recommend Marathon Plus tyres which completely ruined the ride. Also getting the belt tension right after making a change by the road side was an ache; I got it wrong and snapped one. Literal ball ache. Had to walk home as there wasn't anything you could do to effect a repair.
I wouldn't do it again.
Race - Fuji Norcom Straight
Sun - Cervelo R3
Winter / Commute - Dolan ADX
My Civia used horizontal drop-outs so you had to unbolt the axle, loosen and remove the chain tugs, remove the shifter cable from it's slot on the side of the hub and then pull the wheel out. You only needed to undo the coupler on the seat stay if you wanted to take the belt off. Getting the shifter cable in and out was tricky and I used to keep needle-nose pliers in my pannier just in case (on a freezing snowy day they were a god send).
Using horizontal dropouts meant that you could put the belt on slack and then adjust the tension. Using vertical drop outs means that the belt will be under it's desired tension as you either put it onto the sprocket or as you put the axle into the drop-outs. Not sure what the prefered technique it.
I understand that belts have changed a little since I had one and they now have a central track as opposed to just teeth so that might make things easier or harder, depending on how you are supposed to do it.
I'd ask to try it first, or at least get a demo.
Also, thinking about it, it felt to me like there was a lot of transmission loss in an Alfine hub, certainly more than a rear mech.
Race - Fuji Norcom Straight
Sun - Cervelo R3
Winter / Commute - Dolan ADX
http://www.rouxbikes.co.uk/carbon-drive-a8/