Cannondale Supersix Evo BB question
redvision
Posts: 2,958
Morning all,
Due to falling out with Canyon over the mythical Ultimate CF SLX i had ordered (but now cancelled), I am seeking a new race bike.
The two i have narrowed it down to are an S-Works Tarmac or the Cannondale Supersix Evo Hi Mod.
I know quite a few forum members have purchased the bargain Supersix Evos from Pauls Cycles recently so i was wondering if any of you have experienced the bottom bracket creaking problems everyone seems to be warning me about?
Is it as bad as people say?
If i were to get the SSE would it be advisable to switch straight to a Praxis converter?
Many thanks
Due to falling out with Canyon over the mythical Ultimate CF SLX i had ordered (but now cancelled), I am seeking a new race bike.
The two i have narrowed it down to are an S-Works Tarmac or the Cannondale Supersix Evo Hi Mod.
I know quite a few forum members have purchased the bargain Supersix Evos from Pauls Cycles recently so i was wondering if any of you have experienced the bottom bracket creaking problems everyone seems to be warning me about?
Is it as bad as people say?
If i were to get the SSE would it be advisable to switch straight to a Praxis converter?
Many thanks
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Comments
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I've not had any on my normal Six. Not many have had on their normal, Hi Mod or nano either it seems.
But I think it's still a sensible thing to do it you're building from scratch or want versatility.My blog: http://www.roubaixcycling.cc (kit reviews and other musings)
https://twitter.com/roubaixcc
Facebook? No. Just say no.0 -
No prob's with mine though neither have had much time on the road as yet.
I installed the BB on my Nano with a Lifeline press and used the recommended Loctite, fingers crossed all will be well, 75m in and it feels solid. Will be selling the Hi Mod frame when I get around to it
Best of luck deciding what to go for, sure you'll not be disappointed by a Hi-Mod and a buddy loves his Tarmac, more so than the SLX he also has.0 -
Thanks for the replies.
Good to hear that the BB doesn't seem to be that big of an issue.
Now to try and decide between the two ... :?
Head says the SSE, heart says the S-Works.0 -
As you probably know I was also a bit worried about creaking on press fit BBs. Using the Lifeline BB press (£30 from Wiggle) made installing the cups really easy. I fitted dry and didn't know about these new instructions
So far no creaks from the BB.0 -
SRC1 wrote:As you probably know I was also a bit worried about creaking on press fit BBs. Using the Lifeline BB press (£30 from Wiggle) made installing the cups really easy. I fitted dry and didn't know about these new instructions
So far no creaks from the BB.
Thanks.
I did quite a bit of reading last night on BB30 and PF30. They seem to get more complaints than the BB86, BB90 etc.
From what i read the issues are usually down to initial installation when the bike is built up in the workshop.
Whichever i get it will have a pressfit BB.
So with the correct tools these are easy to maintain right?
Out of interest, is there much of a difference between the normal SSE, the Hi Mod and the Nano??0 -
redvision wrote:
Thanks.
I did quite a bit of reading last night on BB30 and PF30. They seem to get more complaints than the BB86, BB90 etc.
From what i read the issues are usually down to initial installation when the bike is built up in the workshop.
Whichever i get it will have a pressfit BB.
So with the correct tools these are easy to maintain right?
Out of interest, is there much of a difference between the normal SSE, the Hi Mod and the Nano??
RE the SSE, vs Hi-Mod vs. Nano.
SSE has lower modulus carbon, external cable routing, is a bit heavier but just as stiff as the Hi-Mod.
I don't think there's much difference between the Hi Mod and Nano, except the Nano isn't painted and weighs about 40g less than the Hi Mod.
I'm not the best person to ask about maintenance as all I've done is fitted one PF30 BB!
I don't like the idea of having to remove press-fit cups to replace the bearings, it doesn't seem like a design with longevity in mind. I'm hoping the bearings will last a long time and when I do replace them, I'll probably choose a BB with bearings that can be replaced without removing the cups.0 -
I pressed my Super Six Evo hm bb in dry, no noise so far in 400 miles.
Oh and I've ridden more in the wet than the dry.0 -
Have done approx. 500 miles on my Pauls cycles supplied evo in four weeks, using a Praxis adapter and no issues, no creaking, no noise and this is with a once a week decent wash and relube which could cause water ingression. Very happy.0
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have had my supersix (non evo) for nearly 4 years now, granted is my dry weather bike, but it has been out in the rain and in wet weather, never had a creak from the BB. I think, as long as it is correctly installed it will last a long time.x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x
Commuting / Winter rides - Jamis Renegade Expert
Pootling / Offroad - All-City Macho Man Disc
Fast rides Cannondale SuperSix Ultegra0 -
If your frame and bearings are in spec, and you pay mind to tolerances and install properly, issues don't arise. Sad thing is, you can't always trust a shop/factory build, so it pays to know how to do it yourself.
Between bb30 and PF30, I've done a good 20,000k, and haven't had a creak, click or graunch. That's across three bikes and four cranks of variable quality (Synapse Alloy, CAAD10, SS Evo Hi-Mod, with FSA Omega, SLK, Gossamer and Cannondale SISL). A good press, the right Loctite, good grease, decent bearings and careful application of all those will ward off most issues. Frankly, I've had more bother with hollowtech and square taper. Fit it once, fit it right.0 -
Thanks for all the replies.
Well, after lots of consideration I've decided I'm getting an s works! Figured it's a bike I have dreamed of for years and after the canyon debacle I'm just going to do it.
I'm actually thinking of buying the frameset and building it myself over the next few weeks.
So if anyone knows of any cracking deals on the tarmac s works frame (56cm I think) please let me know.
Thanks0