Sram Red comapct 50/34 to 50/38
Body
Posts: 32
I have a compact Sram 50/34 and will change it in 50/39. Will this work without shifting issues?
I am asking this because I tried a 39 from Stronglight but got shifting issues.
Hope somebody has good results with Sram 50-38
I am asking this because I tried a 39 from Stronglight but got shifting issues.
Hope somebody has good results with Sram 50-38
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I use 11 speed of Campagnolo. Is it possible that this will give issues ?
The issues what i had with the 39T that my chain dropped between the chainrings. Hopefully it will works better with a 38 T chainring. LIke i said, i use 11 speed Campagnolo
50/34 is standard what has to work. I am curious if 50/38 compact works as well without shift issues.
Did you put the inner chainring on the right way around? If you put it on backwards (and it is difficult to tell with some chainrings which is the proper way) then the gap will be very slightly larger (but hard to see by eye) and can result in the chain dropping between the two. Put on the right way this doesn't happen. I don't think your issue was with using a 39 ring.
Letters outside doesn't mean away from the bike just in case that is your thinking. If the chain is dropping between the chainrings, I doubt it is anything other than you have one of them the wrong way around.
They send me also a picture, so I could notice the letters on the out side way
It will be hit and miss, sometimes it'll shift fine but will drop between the rings on other attempted shifts. This is because the larger diameter of the 38/39 T means that the teeth are too high up the ramping, and hence too far away from the 50T ring.
It seems to ramp too high when shifting to the outer chainring, which isn't surprising as the chain is starting higher up.
On the first ride had dropped chains on the outside of the outer ring. This was sorted by reducing the limit settings so it didn't shift across so far. I hadn't altered the settings from the original rings and it probably always shifted further than it needed to, but no dropped chains because the chain engaged correctly.
I've now got it working OK, shifts down are perfect but shifts up are nowhere near as smooth as before.
I think long term I will just buy a 53/39 but the 38 inner ring is a good short term compromise. I found in Essex riding 34 was just massive overkill and hardly ever used it, too big a gap between rings. Can't fully ditch the compact as I need it for when I ride at my parents house in the peaks.
Has Sram force/Red made difference types of chain rings over the time?
The rings have a recess for the bolt heads. That has to face away from the outer chainring otherwise you'll mount the chainring slightly away creating the gap for the chain to fall into. So letters towards the frame for the inner ring so you can read them from the left side of the bike.
Thank you for your clear answer. Hope the new combination of 50-38 will works.
ON the Ring is also a kind of 'peak', how to mount the Ring in connection wit this peak, see picture. I was supposing by the hidden bolt but is it at the left or right side of the hidden bolt? On the bigger ring I cant see any mark.
okay thanks
So far the chain dont drop between the rings on the bike-standard. As soon as it stops raining I will make a test ride outside.
This is an alignment mark. On a non hidden bolt crankset, this mark should be aligned with/behind the crank arm. On a hidden bolt crankset, it should be positioned at 180 degrees(i.e. opposite) to the crank arm.
The bigger (outside) ring aligns with the crank arm by way of a pin on the outside, which prevents the chain dropping between it and the crank arm.
So it has to be on this way
Well, learnt something new myself there.