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ddraverddraver Posts: 26,243
edited March 2016 in Your road bikes
Built up my old Ribble Winter/Audax frame into a winter/bikepacking/knockabout bike to used when, basically, my nice roadie seems a bit too nice.


Full Shimano 105 5800 - which feels great, it's perhaps a tad more clunky than the 6800 I out on the nice roadie a few months ago but it's really not much different.

Superstar Pave Wheels - These are fantastic, they were reduced by 50% to 99 squids and I don't think they feel any worse than the Fulcrum Racing 3's I have on the nice bike! (Not sure I ll ever get used to the gold though. Running them tubeless with Hutch Sectors which feel like magic carpets

Contact points are Shimano XT pedals chosen just so I can use my MTB shoes, Bontager RL Iso Zone bars which I had lying around and I really like for long distance and a Spesh Toupe Saddle which is like a sofa. Think I might have to replace all my saddles with that!

Lights left on pretty much just to cover up the fact that I have to run the stem the MTB way - and it's still too low (even with an 80mm stem it's a tad long too). It's really a lesson about what you can get used to if you don't know better. That bloody frame is totally the wrong size yet I rode it everywhere for a good 3-4 years. When I get some money together again I ll probably change the frame for a CX or Gravel sort of frame
We're in danger of confusing passion with incompetence
- @ddraver


  • 964cup964cup Posts: 1,362
    No unnerstan. You say the stem is too long and the frame too large, yet you're using a setback post with the saddle pushed back beyond its maximum (or at least so it looks from the photo). Move the saddle forward, and/or use a straight post, then flip the stem to get a bit more saddle to bar drop.
  • JesseDJesseD Posts: 1,961
    It may be that the top tube on this bike is just to long for the OP?

    My understanding is that the most important bit is getting the saddle in the right position in relation to the BB, then you fit the bar height and reach from there. Agree though that the seat looks on the limit of the rails with a setback seat post however if the OP had it lying about and it gets the saddle in the correct position the why go to the expense of buying a new one?

    So if the saddle is where it should be and the OP is using an 80mm stem and its still to long then the geometry is wrong for the OP (too long and/or low)
    Obsessed is a word used by the lazy to describe the dedicated!
  • ddraverddraver Posts: 26,243
    Jesse is right

    The saddle is right in the middle now, I need to do some proper set up on it this weekend but I had just finished building it up and was excited (I think the censored saver exaggerates how it looks). I agree that the saddle position is not a way to adjust reach.

    With the 80mm stem flipped (+6deg) it's 1cm shorter and higher than my road bike set up (which I chose just because that's what GCN recommended for CX bikes - however my road bike is set up quite aggressively as in Holland wind cheating is quite important so i think it could come back and up a lot more. However I used to run a 100mm, -13deg stem on that frame which would feel unridable now, which was kind of the point of the OP.

    The frame will do for now, it's not a long term solution but it will be good enough to take bikepacking and such
    We're in danger of confusing passion with incompetence
    - @ddraver
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