Supersix Evo Hi Mod Nano

reme-luke

:shock: nice weeny build! What are the wheels on the bike?

defride

That's a stunner, nice weight too.

I bought a Hi-Mod Team colours back end of last year, near new only a hundred miles on it if that. Love riding it, ticks all my boxes, if the Nano is anything like it can't imagine you'll be disappointed.

Only the Paul's deal is a bit special, I now need a compact for The Fred and I've a 56 and know now that a 54 would have been fine.

Soooo... less is more and all that, black one should arrive next week.

Debating whether to fit the cranks or get the Cannondale dealer up the road to do it?

src1

reme-luke wrote:

:shock: nice weeny build! What are the wheels on the bike?

Thanks. I built the wheels myself, they're extralite hubs, cx-ray spokes 24h/20h and carbon clincher rims from light-bicycle. Weight is 1250g.

src1

defride wrote:

That's a stunner, nice weight too.

I bought a Hi-Mod Team colours back end of last year, near new only a hundred miles on it if that. Love riding it, ticks all my boxes, if the Nano is anything like it can't imagine you'll be disappointed.

Only the Paul's deal is a bit special, I now need a compact for The Fred and I've a 56 and know now that a 54 would have been fine.

Soooo... less is more and all that, black one should arrive next week.

Debating whether to fit the cranks or get the Cannondale dealer up the road to do it?

Same place I got mine. I wonder how many more he's got. Fitting the cranks was really easy, but you do need a few special tools to do it.

Mamil22

Do you mind if I ask the width of the wheels and what size tyres you have? Is the clearance tight at the back wheel?
Lovely build by the way (I have a Black inc Synapse and fancy the same in a supersix)
Thanks

src1

Mamil22 wrote:

Do you mind if I ask the width of the wheels and what size tyres you have? Is the clearance tight at the back wheel?
Lovely build by the way (I have a Black inc Synapse and fancy the same in a supersix)
Thanks

The rims are 25mm external and 18mm internal, the tyres are Open Corsa CX 25mm. Clearances are fine. I also tried a 25mm GP4000s on an Archetype rim and that had plenty of room too.

I can take a photo tomorrow and post if you want?

Mamil22

SRC1 wrote:

Mamil22 wrote:

Do you mind if I ask the width of the wheels and what size tyres you have? Is the clearance tight at the back wheel?
Lovely build by the way (I have a Black inc Synapse and fancy the same in a supersix)
Thanks

The rims are 25mm external and 18mm internal, the tyres are Open Corsa CX 25mm. Clearances are fine. I also tried a 25mm GP4000s on an Archetype rim and that had plenty of room too.

I can take a photo tomorrow and post if you want?

Thanks for the reply, I have a set of vision metrons at 25.5mm and prefer the ride with 25mm tyres. If there any frames left I'll order one this morning and see how I get on. Slightly different build for me using etap (hopefully)

tim_wand

bendertherobot wrote:

Seem to have. Can't find much of it about. At least not all three pieces I'd need. They don't do the OS-99 in it either. Might see if there's an SLK around

Theres one German site, something like Bike Builder De. that has Fsa Slk green handlebars but they are £155 , other wise its waiting on Ebay.COM for stuff from dealers in the States ( most of the Taiwan stuff is fake )

I ve got OSI 99 Green Stem and FSA SLK seat post, Stem is 100% genuine , but I have my doubts about the seat post, Weighs the same and looks the same as the FSA red and Grey ones I ve seen in UK shops, think its just because it came from overseas I question it.

That aside, the green on these components isn't as Vivid as your Frameset colour Bender! Personally I d go with the new grey/ black stuff.

I m in the process of swapping out my bars and seat post and will either go that route or 3t aeronova and 3t route, only problem is prices are too high to justify the change at the moment.

bendertherobot

tim wand wrote:

bendertherobot wrote:

Seem to have. Can't find much of it about. At least not all three pieces I'd need. They don't do the OS-99 in it either. Might see if there's an SLK around

Theres one German site, something like Bike Builder De. that has Fsa Slk green handlebars but they are £155 , other wise its waiting on Ebay.COM for stuff from dealers in the States ( most of the Taiwan stuff is fake )

I ve got OSI 99 Green Stem and FSA SLK seat post, Stem is 100% genuine , but I have my doubts about the seat post, Weighs the same and looks the same as the FSA red and Grey ones I ve seen in UK shops, think its just because it came from overseas I question it.

That aside, the green on these components isn't as Vivid as your Frameset colour Bender! Personally I d go with the new grey/ black stuff.

I m in the process of swapping out my bars and seat post and will either go that route or 3t aeronova and 3t route, only problem is prices are too high to justify the change at the moment.

Yeah, I'm all for green when it's the same shade. Just got a new R3 Aliante, it's 98% there so won't mess with my OCD (it's the Garmin Cannondale green).

I reckon it will be either Fizik or Deda, probably the latter and just get the black(est) versions.

oldbazza

The Deda superleggera stuff is nice(I have the stem on my Ridley Helium)but watch the bolts when tightening ,I had one fail despite using a torque wrench;got some nice ti ones off e-bay with rolled threads which have been fine.

step83

oldbazza wrote:

The Deda superleggera stuff is nice(I have the stem on my Ridley Helium)but watch the bolts when tightening ,I had one fail despite using a torque wrench;got some nice ti ones off e-bay with rolled threads which have been fine.

Had to change the bolts one mine as well. Also why are the 35s such a paint to wrap nicely!

Already shaping up to be a stunner though.

Mamil22

Last frame from Pauls sold to yours truly yesterday, if it looks as good as SRC1's I will be very happy. Thanks for posting and the info.

src1

Build done, just need to dial in the position. 6Kg all in.



The sparkly top tube!

defride

Looks great SRC1 hope you get a chance to ride it soon.

Quick question, does the c/set come with spiderings attached and is the KT012 tool for them included?

Many thanks

src1

defride wrote:

Looks great SRC1 hope you get a chance to ride it soon.

Quick question, does the c/set come with spiderings attached and is the KT012 tool for them included?

Many thanks

Thanks, me too!

The chainset comes with both 53/39 and 50/34 rings, but they're not attached. You'll need Loctite 242, the KT012 tools, a PF30 BB press and it's also likely you'll want the crank removal tools too.

KT012 tool for attaching the spider ring:
http://qwertycycles.co.uk/collections/t ... -ring-tool

crank arm remover:
http://qwertycycles.co.uk/products/leon ... t013-leo25

The Leonardi KT012 tool is much cheaper than the offical Cannondale tool, but you may find attaching a torque wrench to it difficult. I didn't have a torque wrench that fitted, so just did it up tight.

reme-luke

Looks fantastic!

defride

SRC1 wrote:

Thanks, me too!

The chainset comes with both 53/39 and 50/34 rings, but they're not attached. You'll need Loctite 242, the KT012 tools, a PF30 BB press and it's also likely you'll want the crank removal tools too.

KT012 tool for attaching the spider ring:
http://qwertycycles.co.uk/collections/t ... -ring-tool

crank arm remover:
http://qwertycycles.co.uk/products/leon ... t013-leo25

The Leonardi KT012 tool is much cheaper than the offical Cannondale tool, but you may find attaching a torque wrench to it difficult. I didn't have a torque wrench that fitted, so just did it up tight.

Grrr, to be expected I guess...

It's a rare day that it's cheaper to run the bike up to the dealer than do it yourself! (need to get a bigger torque wrench too)

BikeSwan

Lovely build you've got there. Very stealthy. How do you find the 35mm Bars? Do you find them noticeably stiffer than a 31.8mm setup? Does significantly more road buzz get transmitted through the bars?

src1

BikeSwan wrote:

Lovely build you've got there. Very stealthy. How do you find the 35mm Bars? Do you find them noticeably stiffer than a 31.8mm setup? Does significantly more road buzz get transmitted through the bars?

Thanks. Bar a quick spin around the village, I haven't ridden it yet

The only thing I've noticed so far is that you're only supposed to wrap tape just beyond the hoods position and it looks a bit weird.

I'll report back when I've ridden it.

2poc

One of your cages is up side down

thespanishadam

SRC1 wrote:

Build done, just need to dial in the position. 6Kg all in.



The sparkly top tube!
[/quote

Is it me or are one of those bottle cages the wrong way round?

Great weight bike!

bendertherobot

I'm constantly doing that with bottle cages!

src1

Yep, the bottle cage on the seat tube was upside down - doh!

I took it out for it's first proper outing yesterday, just a couple of hours, but enough to get a feel for it...

The position felt good, the BB didn't creak and it's definitely light and stiff. The handling is something I didn't really think about until I realised I felt totally confident on it and had a new found ability to carve an exact line through corners I usually back-off on.

Chucking in a few sprint efforts highlighted the light and stiff aspect off the bike - definitely nothing more I could ask for there...

The 35mm handle bars feel good and the shape suits me. However, one problem I had with them is to do with the un-wrapped tops. I sometimes like to ride with me forearms resting on the tops in a TT-like position. My long sleeve jersey and un-wrapped tops were just too slippery to make this position one I could hold.

I did have a few teething problems:
1. The headset started creaking during out of the saddle efforts towards the end of the ride. Nothing a quick readjustment won't fix I'm sure.
2. The supplied carbon-steerer bung isn't much good. Maybe it's just the stem I've got, but the supplied bung can't be positioned to protect the steerer unless you have a huge amount of steerer above the stem. I've replaced it with an FSA one that works much better.
3. I'm getting creaking from my new rear hub. I've checked it's not the DA cassette or Zipp QR. Next to check are the bearings..

So, the new f+f is a complete success, the handling is fantastic, it weighs next to nothing and yet it's plenty stiff enough for any sprint efforts I can muster. Any teething troubles are just down to the finishing kit I chose.

src1

Headset creak fixed by refitting the headset and replacing the supplied super light headset spacers with normal carbon spacers.

The rear wheel wasn't the hub, it was the NDS spokes. Pulling the spokes made the same noise I was hearing when riding out-of-the-saddle. Luckily, I few pulls on each spoke in turn fixed the noise. Not sure why they were doing it, it wasn't spoke wind up as they are cx-ray spokes laced radially ..

defride

SRC1 wrote:

Yep, the bottle cage on the seat tube was upside down - doh!

I took it out for it's first proper outing yesterday, just a couple of hours, but enough to get a feel for it...

The position felt good, the BB didn't creak and it's definitely light and stiff. The handling is something I didn't really think about until I realised I felt totally confident on it and had a new found ability to carve an exact line through corners I usually back-off on.

Chucking in a few sprint efforts highlighted the light and stiff aspect off the bike - definitely nothing more I could ask for there...

The 35mm handle bars feel good and the shape suits me. However, one problem I had with them is to do with the un-wrapped tops. I sometimes like to ride with me forearms resting on the tops in a TT-like position. My long sleeve jersey and un-wrapped tops were just too slippery to make this position one I could hold.

So, the new f+f is a complete success, the handling is fantastic, it weighs next to nothing and yet it's plenty stiff enough for any sprint efforts I can muster. Any teething troubles are just down to the finishing kit I chose.

Finished my build yesterday and got a couple of hours in on it.

Picked up all the tools and went the Loctite 609 route, Cannondale now recommend it on their website so figured might as well follow the advice. Only real issue with the build was the lockring tool for the spider on the cranks. The official tool is a pita... 36mm and you can't get a socket over it due to the shape, all you can use is an open ended spanner, stupid and not great for use with a torque wrench. Used the tool in a vice method in the end.

Came in with Red and tubeless carbon clinchers at just under 6kg ready to ride.

I'd anticipated that it might feel a little stiffer and harsher than the Hi-Mod. Couldn't have been more wrong, it just glides over rough surfaces while delivering instant response to any rider input. The Hi Mod is terrific in all those respects but that Nano beats it. Came back with a big smile and even KOM'd the first hill it went up!

Thanks for the advice, hope you continue to enjoy yours and the only creaks come from weary bones on account of all the extra riding you're going to want to be doing.

src1

Sounds nice Defride, let's see some photos please!

I guess you mean Loctite 609 for the press fit BB rather than the spider ring?

defride

SRC1 wrote:

Sounds nice Defride, let's see some photos please!

I guess you mean Loctite 609 for the press fit BB rather than the spider ring?

Yes, 609 and activator 7649 for the BB and 242 for the Spidering

src1

defride wrote:

SRC1 wrote:

Sounds nice Defride, let's see some photos please!

I guess you mean Loctite 609 for the press fit BB rather than the spider ring?

Yes, 609 and activator 7649 for the BB and 242 for the Spidering

That looks really good, but then I might be biased! I see you've done the proper thing and slammed the stem.

I hadn't seen those instructions for using 609, but hopefully I'll be ok. However, I do think it's a strange system that combines press fit cups and non-replaceable bearings. I wonder how many times you can replace the bearings & cups before you don't get a good slip fit any more. Basically, it doesn't seem a system designed for longevity.

Beatmaker

That looks fantastic, I'm building up my CAAD10 Disc Black Inc today, I hope it looks as good as your SS.

defride

SRC1 wrote:

That looks really good, but then I might be biased! I see you've done the proper thing and slammed the stem.

I hadn't seen those instructions for using 609, but hopefully I'll be ok. However, I do think it's a strange system that combines press fit cups and non-replaceable bearings. I wonder how many times you can replace the bearings & cups before you don't get a good slip fit any more. Basically, it doesn't seem a system designed for longevity.

On the 56 Hi-Mod I only ran a 5mm spacer below the stem, the bars are a little higher than I'm used to with the 25mm top cap/spacer. Don't notice much difference on the road but there's a bit of room for experimentation.

You do hear of individuals pushing the cups out several times to try and eradicate creaks and most seem to eventually find a solution, still, not great. Cheaper and easier for the manufacturer is not always better for the consumer! This is going to be a dry weather bike, it'll only see rain on the odd sportive, hopefully that'll extend the life of the BB.

Had it out again yesterday, really impressed, I liked the Hi-Mod a lot, much nicer to ride than my Cube but it never felt quiet as exciting to ride as the Nano does. The extra stiffness I notice may also have something to do with the Cannondale chainset, I ran Red on the Hi-Mod. Who knows but to deliver the get up and go along with comfort and solid/planted not skittery handling is quiet an acheivement. Chapeau Cannondale.