Triple to single chainring and new 'gears'

eSkovgaard

I'm the owner of a Giant Revel 0, model year 2014. After year(s) of use it's time to replace parts.

I have come to conclusion that i only use my middle gears, so i wanna convert to single chainring, so what is the list of components i have to buy? I have searched, but i don't feel confident enough..

- Do i need to buy a new crank arm (where the pedal is attached), og can i use the one i already have, and then just buy a single chainring. In that case, is there any dimensions i have to be aware of when buying chainring, compared to the crank arm? (Any chainring to recommend?). I have also seen bikes with single chainrings, which still had the front derailleur - is there any reason for that?

- The reason i'm changing, is also because my gears are getting terrible. I'm going to buy a new rear derailleur, and a new gear shifter. What to be aware of? Is the only thing i have to notice is the dimensions of my cassette, if it is a 9-8 or 10 speed? I'm thinking about the SHIMANO Deore- RD-M592-SGS, Shadow but i don't know what to combine it with? Every switch grip i found is only suitable with triple or double chainrings?

Looking forward to hearing from you

clydefrog

Regarding the rear derailleur, you should be able to get away with a short cage with only a single chainring up front. Definitely don't get a long cage one (SGS) as the chain capacities are well above what you will have on your bike. Let's say you have a single 36T ring up front and an 11-34 cassette, that's (36-36) + (34-11) = 23T which will put you within the capacity of short cages. Long cage capacities are generally 43+.

About the front mech, I have no idea why you'd have one with a single ring.

JGTR

I'd guess what you saw was a chain guide and not a front mech. Only really used by aggressive riders to stop chain coming off, you should be ok with a single "narrow wide" chain ring, you won't need to replace your crank but you will need new "single chain ring" bolts as your original bolts are for a double ring.
Not too sure about rear end, can use existing cassette, fit an expander ring or change to 10 or 11 speed but you'd need new shifters, cassette, chain and derailleur as far as I know.
SRAM have just released a budget 11 speed set up, may be worth a look.

Antm81

I expect your rear mech is fine still so I'd start by not replacing it or the rear shifter, just replace the inner and outer cable between the 2 ad re-index the gears.

As has been mentioned I'd fit a narrow wide chain ring at the front, no need for a guide and remove the front mech and shifter for it.

Some single ring setups may still use the front mech, not as a mech but as a makeshift chain guide to stop the chain coming off.

Other than that, check your cassette for wear and replace if needed, I'd recommend a new chain at the same time too.

eSkovgaard

Thanks for the responses, surely gave me some to think about!

I took the time to research the topics mentioned, as i'm rather green at this
As far as i understood, the number of rings on the cassette is equal to type of speed? In that case my bike has 8 rings, in this case 8 speed. The advantage of having a higher speed is having more gears?

I have a 11-32 on my bike. When choosing the front single ring, i guess it has to fit with the cassette? I know it's individual what suits best for choice of cassette, but is there something preferable? Having a higher number on the biggest ring - does that give me a "tougher" highest gear, or is that irrelevant if i have more gears?

Is there something to consider/advantages whether its a short cage, medium cage or long cage, or has it just to do if there are more or less teeth on the cassette?

cooldad

Read Parktools.

Speed has nothing to do with number of cogs, it has to do with the relationship between chain ring and cog. And it's a trade off, big front small rear = higher speed. Presuming you can still push the pedals.

Mech capacity depends on the total difference between front and rear - capacity = (big front - small front) + (big rear - small rear).

Useless having a massive gear to push if you have to walk up all the hills.

The Rookie

If you only currently use the middle chainring, unless you aren't then using some gears at the back it would make sense to stick to the same sized chainring? Almost certainly a 32t.