Using tubeless sealant in normal clinchers - cycling weekly test.
fudgey
Posts: 854
Does anyone else do this?
I used the Stans no-tubes kit on my MTB but that has tubeless rims and tyres. I must admit when doing it thought why cant you use it in tubes.
Anyway, here is a vid, might give it a go as one bottle of fluid will do a pair of road tubes.
http://www.cyclingweekly.co.uk/videos/c ... your-tyres
I used the Stans no-tubes kit on my MTB but that has tubeless rims and tyres. I must admit when doing it thought why cant you use it in tubes.
Anyway, here is a vid, might give it a go as one bottle of fluid will do a pair of road tubes.
http://www.cyclingweekly.co.uk/videos/c ... your-tyres
My winter bike is exactly the same as my summer bike,,, but dirty...
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Comments
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As people sell tubes prefilled it is clear there is no reason why not, the trouble is on most of them to get a reasonable life (without the fluid drying out) the sealant is crap at being a sealant...if it dries out and you refresh every 6 montsh the tube is going to get pretty heavy after a while!Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0
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Ah, i didnt know it dries out actually. I done my MTB back in june or something and the pressure has stayed at what it was. Hardly used the MTB last year tho due to injury etc. so its probably dried up.My winter bike is exactly the same as my summer bike,,, but dirty...0
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I have tried and it jams the valves. The reason is tubeless valves are raised from the rim bed, while inner tubes valves are not, so there is always a bit of liquid trapped in the valve, no matter where you rest the valve. The sealant tends in time to gunk the valve.
Don't bother...left the forum March 20230 -
I run my winter bike with sealant in clinchers. I tried it as I had a puncture last year in about 2 degree and discovered that changing a wet, freezing cold tubeless rim with numb fingers was an experience I'm not keen to repeat. Especially as I had dressed for a resonable quick ride so got cold quickly when stopped.
I used the conti sealant. No idea whether it worked well or not, I've not punctured since (touch wood) though. The sealant does work into the valves and start to clog them, I found this a problem after 3-4 months which seems a fair trade off to me. I was absolutely religious about keeping the valves at the top of each wheel when the bike was parked on my LBS advice.0 -
Ugo, would it be that much of an inconvenience tho if the valves do get blocked? My MTB wheels have kept the same pressure since i set them up, so if the road tubes hold their pressure then you wouldn't need to keep pumping them up etc.
And if they did get blocked it wouldn't take long to remove the valve core and poke something down it to clear it.
Ok fair enough if you change tyres often etc, but I and I am sure many, do not.My winter bike is exactly the same as my summer bike,,, but dirty...0 -
whats the difference between doing this and using the slime (etc) tubes? I was always under the impression that the slime tubes are not popular on road bikes because the much higher pressures of the tyres meant they didn't work as well? (unlike the lower pressure mtb tyres where they do work, apparently)0
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Fudgey wrote:Ugo, would it be that much of an inconvenience tho if the valves do get blocked? My MTB wheels have kept the same pressure since i set them up, so if the road tubes hold their pressure then you wouldn't need to keep pumping them up etc.
And if they did get blocked it wouldn't take long to remove the valve core and poke something down it to clear it.
Ok fair enough if you change tyres often etc, but I and I am sure many, do not.
It's the screw thing on top that gets jammed and you need pliers to open it. Then once you de-gunk the valve, it no longer wants to close... it is a hassleleft the forum March 20230 -
Ah i see.
I still think it might be worthwhile for the grotty winter months, and once that period is over then carry on as normal.
i have not ordered any sealant yet, and typically i dont puncture that often (touches large piece of wood) but its a pain in the arris trying to change a tube in the cold and rain.My winter bike is exactly the same as my summer bike,,, but dirty...0 -
Fudgey wrote:Ah i see.
I still think it might be worthwhile for the grotty winter months, and once that period is over then carry on as normal.
i have not ordered any sealant yet, and typically i dont puncture that often (touches large piece of wood) but its a pain in the arris trying to change a tube in the cold and rain.
In winter I use big tyres and use them tubeless. If your clincher stays up with < 60 PSI, it can typically be ran tubeless... for high pressure you need a tubeless specific tyreleft the forum March 20230 -
Doesnt the tyre roll off the rim if its a non tubeless rim and tyre combo?
So do you just use a tubless kit, ie tape, valve and sealent on non tubeless rims and tyres?
Might be something to look into then.My winter bike is exactly the same as my summer bike,,, but dirty...0 -
Fudgey wrote:Doesnt the tyre roll off the rim if its a non tubeless rim and tyre combo?
So do you just use a tubless kit, ie tape, valve and sealent on non tubeless rims and tyres?
Might be something to look into then.
the rims are tubeless, only the tyres aren'tleft the forum March 20230 -
Ah righto. CheersMy winter bike is exactly the same as my summer bike,,, but dirty...0