Replacement drivetrain for a single speed

annoyingtwit
annoyingtwit Posts: 127
edited February 2016 in Workshop
My rear freewheel has started skipping. I was thinking that I needed to proactively replace some parts of my bike as they seemed old and well-used. I've now moved into reactive mode. I need to change the chain and the rear freewheel. The chainring looks fine.

I'm effectively continuing the thread from here: viewtopic.php?f=40042&t=13059854 as I think my questions are now totally inappropriate for the 'road buying advice' sub-forum.

I'd rather learn how to do this myself. However, I have no idea how to get the old freewheel off. It's a 'TRI DIAMOND' model, that looks identical to this:

Bicycle-Refit-Fixed-Gear-Single-Speed-Bicycle-Freewheel-14T-16T-18T-20T-Freewheel-TRI-DIAMOND-.jpg

It doesn't have the four slots that seem to fit tools like the Park Tools tool recommended in the previous thread:

11641.jpg

I was thinking of replacing it with a Sturmey Archer freewheel - the Shimano MX-30 was recommended before but I've since read very mixed reviews of the Shimano models - and the MX-30 seems to have been replaced by something else not as good. Maybe.

I can see the four slots into which the tool would fit. I can see those slots on the freewheel (and fixed wheel) in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LSwUxjg28Ek Hence, at present, I have no idea how to get the freewheel off.

It would be better to know how to remove the freewheel (or a future freewheel) as then I could do things like replacing spokes properly. But, the first step is to get the current freewheel off.

Comments

  • pin spanner into the two little holes on the front. Screw anticlockwise.

    If it's seized on, then use some real tough heavy duty mole grips and squeeze the bu@@er to death and unscrew the whole shebang.

    Shimano is a more robust replacement. It's not perfect though: mine has started to spin both ways. I guess I need to strip and lube...
    Commute: Langster -Singlecross - Brompton S2-LX

    Road: 95 Trek 5500 -Look 695 Aerolight eTap - Boardman TTe eTap

    Offroad: Pace RC200 - Dawes Kickback 2 tandem - Tricross - Boardman CXR9.8 - Ridley x-fire
  • Thanks.

    I found this: http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-hel ... ve-removal

    I'll try these two techniques (yours and Park Tools) in a few days. In the meantime no hills for me or it skips.

    I have negotiated with the machine shop at work and I'll be able to borrow their vice and a few tools when they are less busy.

    Whatever freewheel I put on will be %*$$^£ well be one that fits the Park Tools FR6C or similar tool.
  • Just in case anyone reads this thread in the future: the ParkTool instructions for 'destructive removal of freewheel' worked extremely well. It did help that I borrowed a hulking great vice at work. I followed the steps: nail punch to remove the disk, removal of bits including cog, flip wheel in vice, rotate wheel to unscrew freewheel body, and it came off like a dream. The only unexpected problem was that it took me as much time to pick up scattered ball bearings as it did to remove the freewheel.

    I'm riding fixed at the moment (and was even before I removed the freewheel as the freewheel was skipping too much). Hopefully my new freewheel will arrive in the post today. That will then create it's own new problem - installing a (KMC) chain for the first time.
  • Just a post-script here. I'm aware than in the most part I'm talking to myself. :) I've put the new freewheel on - easy. I found changing a chain for the first time to be suspiciously easy, particularly how easy it was to insert the missing link into the new KMC S1 chain. I can't see that it could be any more 'properly' fixed in than it is now. The Topeak chain tool I have seems to work fine. But, I'm concerned that the ease of installing the 'missing link' may be one of those 'if it seems too good to be true' things.

    If this chain is installed properly, which I'm about to test with a ride, then roadside chain repairs are definitely on the menu for the future. Which would be a significant step forward for me as I do intend to continue long range rides including Audaxes.

    I ended up putting a Sturmey Archer freewheel on. It seems to have a much more pronounced freewheel 'click' than the previous 'Diamond' freewheel. I'm very happy that I now have a freewheel with slots for removal, and will order the proper ParkTool tool for it so that I'm prepared for future changes.

    The next bit of mechanical stuff to learn for me is to get better at truing wheels, and some time in the future replace my bike's bottom bracket. It doesn't need it now, as far as I can see, but it will at some point.
  • jgsi
    jgsi Posts: 5,062
    I'd suggest getting the Sturmey Archer removal tool... I can lock mine in with the axle nut , so that I get the freewheel off TBH, 1/8 chains are the last on my list for things breaking on the road however.
  • Thanks for the advice. I can get the Sturmey Archer tool over on Single Speed Components.com (or similar website.) I'm wondering what else I can buy at the same time to defray the postage a bit. If I knew what sort of bottom bracket I need, I might buy one to keep in stock for the near inevitable day I need it.

    BTW: I wasn't worrying about the chain breaking, but the missing link coming undone.
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    Well I've never had a KMC link come undone accidentally. Indeed I've invested in the removal pliers to make getting them off a bit easier.
    I did have one fall apart when it was marinating in white spirit with the rest of the chain. I suspect I'd reused it with one too many new chains. And I think it must have been starting to part company on the previous ride; there was some odd clunking from the rear mech at one point. Narrow escape there I think...
  • Thanks. The missing link seems to be working fine. I haven't gone up any really meaty hills with it yet, but there's no sign of it moving. The KMC S1 chain seems quite good. It's a real bargain for £5 delivered, or £2.90 alone without postage. I've ordered a spare missing link for my long distance tool/part kit. I was thinking I'd prefer a chain like a Shimano without a missing link, but I think I could be persuaded to change my mind if the S1 keeps on working.

    [New drivetrain question]

    I read that my bike has a 'cassette' bottom bracket. Are all cassette bottom brackets compatible other than minor parameters such as crank length? Or do I have to research more to find what will fit my bike? (I'm not planning on changing the BB immediately, but will do at some time in the future.)