SRAM Red BB30 22 chainset removal

londoncommuter

Apologies that this is a really stupid question but how do you remove a SRAM Red 22 BB30 chainset?

Their techdoc here shows fitting but there is nothing definitive on removal:

https://sram-cdn-pull-zone-gsdesign.net ... sets_1.pdf

Is it just a case of applying serious force with a 10mm allen key or is there a self-extracting mechanism?

I've read some posts about a self-extraction pin spanner but can't find much on it.

http://www.cyclingforums.com/threads/ho ... rm.442093/

The background is I want to remove a brand new one from an otherwise unbuilt frame so would have to do it very gently i.e. I can't stand on the allen key. I'm a bit worried as if it's been torqued up to the 48Nm advised by SRAM, and there is no self extraction method, then it's going nowhere!

I should also have said, I obviously don't want to leave a mark or even worry the chainset as it's all new and lovely.

herzog

Chainring side should just unscrew using 10mm Allen key.

nicklouse

if the extraction collar has been fitted/not removed/not fallen out you just undo the Allen headed bolt and it pushes on the collar pulling the arm off.

londoncommuter

Herzog wrote:

Chainring side should just unscrew using 10mm Allen key.

Thanks. Isn't that a bit of a nightmare removing with a normal allen key if someone's used a 10ft long torque wrench to do it up to 48Nm?

I'm going to be limited to holding the frame horizontally with the non-drive side arm between my knees and trying to turn the allen key by hand (I should also say for reference that I have the arm muscles of a malnourished kitten).

Do you know what the four little holes in between the torque setting text are for? Are they definitely not for the insertion of some whizzy tool that will solve all my problems. Here's a stock picture you can zoom in and see them on:

https://www.sram.com/sram/road/products ... crankset-1

londoncommuter

nicklouse wrote:

if the extraction collar has been fitted/not removed/not fallen out you just undo the Allen headed bolt and it pushes on the collar pulling the arm off.

Is that on the latest 22 models though as a comment from that forum I linked to is:

"On the new models, the spindle is permanently attached to the left arm and the right crank is removed. That crank bolt has a 10mm fitting, and the self-extraction nut takes a pin spanner."

nicklouse

look at the PDF you linked to.

and as you say the self-extraction collar needs a pin spanner (4 holes). same as always.

if the collar does start rotating then yes you will need a pin spanner to hold it.

londoncommuter

Sorry, I know I'm being really stupid on this. I've used the self-extraction on Rival GXP chainsets and it seems to make sense. What on Earth does the pin spanner do? Don't you turn self extracting things the "wrong way" and they push something else off?

You all seem to be saying just turn the allen key as normal so what's the point of the self extracting collar?

Guernsey Donkey

If the crank set looks like this......



Then to remove you turn the 10mm hex the normal way (anticlockwise) to undo not in the direction of the arrow!. Initially it will go slack but will then tighten up again after a couple of turns. Continue turning in the same direction and the crank will come free.

When Sram make the chainset they put the bolt inside the tube and then fit the retainer ring (the bit with the writing and the four holes). This retainer has a lefthand thread to ensure that it does not unwind with the bolt. The arrow is the direction to turn to remove the ring not the bolt.

If the collar is missing you can remove the bolt but the chainset will not budge.

londoncommuter

Thanks everyone for your help. I get it now. So the extractor collar just helps a little with pulling the drive side out but nothings going to get round having to undo the 10mm bolt that's potentially been torqued to a crazy setting.

Not too bad if it's on an assembled bike with a chain to stop it spinning round and you can stand on the allen key. Probably no hope with just the chainset installed in an otherwise naked (and delicate) frame.

nicklouse

londoncommuter wrote:

You all seem to be saying just turn the allen key as normal so what's the point of the self extracting collar?

No collar and the bolt comes out and crank stays where it is.

That is the point of it. Just the same as on the other self extracting cranks.

The pin spanner is only needed to remove or fit the collar.

You are over thinking things.

bobley

In 5 years of servicing BB30/PF30 bikes I've only had to nip the self extracting collar up once (on a new bike where it wasn't installed properly in the first place). Just leave it alone, let it do its job.

I've often removed cranks with the bike up on the workstand and the chain/pedals removed. I normally use a typical 3/8" ratchet (£10 from Toolstation) and a 10mm hex bit. You can then ratchet the handle around so its almost in line with the crank arm and pull one against the other to get it to back off. It may be a bit messier to do with an allen key but you could do it easily with a length of mild steel 20mm tube from Wickes (£6.50) slid over the allen key. Just wrap a bit of tape around the end of the tube so you don't scratch the chainset. If the bikes in one piece, then sit on the bike with the left pedal pointing forwards and your foot firmly planted on the pedal and put the allen key into the crank at somewhere between the 1 and 3 oclock postion and pull up while pushing down with your left foot. You'll probably want to hold the left bar/brake lever at the same time. It sounds like a juggling act but its not.