TRP Spyre issues
kingofthetailwind
Posts: 575
I've been having problems with the Spyres on my new GT Grade since I got it last week. The front mainly.
It worked fine initially, seemed to bed in well. No noise and power was very good. But then I started getting the fluttering/shuddering problem described here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1T2RLgQoyvs
So I realigned the caliper as per the installation instruction - loosen mounting bolts, pull brake, tighten bolts. The problem still seems to be there, but it seems to be juddering as well now. Basically much worse than before and I can feel the judder through the bars rather than it just being a noise like before. The headset is tight, the rotor seems fine and the QR is tight.
One thing I have noticed is that while both pads of the Spyre are adjustable, the adjustment bolt for the inboard one won't move at all. Not a mm in either direction. It's the same front and rear, totally stuck. Both pads should be adjustable independently right?
It worked fine initially, seemed to bed in well. No noise and power was very good. But then I started getting the fluttering/shuddering problem described here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1T2RLgQoyvs
So I realigned the caliper as per the installation instruction - loosen mounting bolts, pull brake, tighten bolts. The problem still seems to be there, but it seems to be juddering as well now. Basically much worse than before and I can feel the judder through the bars rather than it just being a noise like before. The headset is tight, the rotor seems fine and the QR is tight.
One thing I have noticed is that while both pads of the Spyre are adjustable, the adjustment bolt for the inboard one won't move at all. Not a mm in either direction. It's the same front and rear, totally stuck. Both pads should be adjustable independently right?
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Comments
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Had the same problem with mine when I initially installed them. For some reason TRP seem to really tighten them up, but the one causing the biggest problem was the inboard front.
I tried an allen key but decided it wasn't going to undo, so I got my screwdriver socket set with the 3mm(maybe 2.5mm not sure) hex socket. Being able to put a lot of 'push' pressure on the driver made undoing it easier/possible.0 -
I was reluctant to use anything bigger than an Allen key, I'll try the socket set. I'm hoping getting the inboard pad closer to the rotor will help. Did you have any problems aligning them?0
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If it's any consollation, I can confirm your findings regarding the inboard pad adjuster. Fitted some new Spyres to my Equilibrium Disc last year and could not get the inboard pad adjuster to move with a normal allen key. Thought it was seized completely.
Eventually demounted the caliper and used one of my "long reach" allen keys with a bit more leverage. Got it to move and once loosened I was able to mount it again and use a normal allen key for adjustment.
Think TRP might put loctite or similar on these adjusters tho' can't think why they'd need to.
This happened on both front and rear. Once loosened the 2 pad adjustment is a great feature for getting the best set up.0 -
same here, F&R inboards totally solid.0
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KingOfTheTailwind wrote:I was reluctant to use anything bigger than an Allen key, I'll try the socket set. I'm hoping getting the inboard pad closer to the rotor will help. Did you have any problems aligning them?
Just to make sure we're talking about the same thing, it's this type ...
http://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/ ... wwodnqUNjw
Obviously you can get them a lot cheaper elsewhere.
Regarding alignment, no problem with the rear, but the front was vertically tilted and I had to use packing/shim to get it square. Apparently, some frames have a concave indent and then use domed washers under the mount thus enabling easier alignment.0 -
6wheels wrote:KingOfTheTailwind wrote:I was reluctant to use anything bigger than an Allen key, I'll try the socket set. I'm hoping getting the inboard pad closer to the rotor will help. Did you have any problems aligning them?
Just to make sure we're talking about the same thing, it's this type ...
http://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/ ... wwodnqUNjw
Obviously you can get them a lot cheaper elsewhere.
Regarding alignment, no problem with the rear, but the front was vertically tilted and I had to use packing/shim to get it square. Apparently, some frames have a concave indent and then use domed washers under the mount thus enabling easier alignment.
OK, it's not just me then! Some elbow grease required. I've a similar hex bit set for my torque wrench so I'll have a go with that.
I guess it will take a bit more fiddling to get it aligned. Doesn't look like there are domed washers fitted.0 -
So moving the inboard pad a bit closer to the rotor has fixed the shuddering problem, but caused a deafening, embarrassing squeal! :x0
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KingOfTheTailwind wrote:So moving the inboard pad a bit closer to the rotor has fixed the shuddering problem, but caused a deafening, embarrassing squeal! :x
Do a few really hard stops using just the front brake (don't completely stop, then back up to speed and do it again, about 10 times usually does it), that should fully bed them in and stop most of the squeal (and get rid of any glazing from not having them adjusted properly initially ).Rose Xeon CDX 3100, Ultegra Di2 disc (nice weather)
Ribble Gran Fondo, Campagnolo Centaur (winter bike)
Van Raam 'O' Pair
Land Rover (really nasty weather )0