Ultegra 6800 front mech trim

bendertherobot

Right, the Supersix came out today, it's been in the loft since I bought it in October. I'm used to SRAM but have had plenty of Shimano.

So, that front mech. Before I start fettling it as per the myriad of suggestions on the internewt, can I just check:

When I HAVE done it can I expect NOT to have to trim at all in the big ring? At the moment I get rub in lowest gear, no rub in the next 4 gears, then rub again, then I have to trim out, then no rub across the rest of the gears.

banditvic

Do what I did and stick a Sram force front mech on it.

bendertherobot

I have to say, it's quite tempting. I don't like the idea of 4 trim clicks.

MikeBrew

Are you sure it's not fitted skew-wiff ?

bendertherobot

Possible. Hence me asking if it's normal. Think I'll pop it into the shop to sort.

MikeBrew

Getting the shop to fit a full Sram Red group is probably the best fix .. or there's this :

viewtopic.php?t=12976309

bendertherobot

Ultimately it'll get etap, of course, but it'll do for now!

MikeBrew

In an ideal (non Sram YAW) world, one trim in either front chain ring Should be enough for a rub-free full range of gears. Big ring, trim once (little lever) to get quiet in the largest rear cog. Little ring, trim once(big lever) to get silent running in the smallest rear cog.
Just peeked out the curtains and there's no Lambo on the drive, no sign of an ideal world here then. Come to that, in an ideal world they'd be better curtains and a longer drive in a sunny country.....

paulmon

I have a similar issue with a 6800 front mech on my tarmac. I also have the same mech on my Ti and the trim on that is perfect. I have replaced cables and followed the guidance from a post on here to the letter and I still get no trim on the big ring.

On my Ti there is trim and its a definite movement of the mech both ways. Here is a copy of the post from here which I cant find http://www.moonigan.co.uk/index.php/201 ... erailleur/

I've tried new cable on my tarmac and its still the same so I'm going to buy another front mech as that's the only thing that hasn't been replaced.

Matthewfalle

IMHO you'll still have to trim - one click either way.

arthur_scrimshaw

No issues with my synapse - not aware I've encountered any chain rub issues and I'm pretty sensitive to things like that!

svetty

Front shifting on 5800/6800/9000 is the best going. Yes it is a little finicky to set-up but once correctly adjusted beats previous Shimano (and SRAM/Campag) front shifting by a decent margin.

bendertherobot

I seem to have it now. Little ring ok. Shifting to big ring excellent. No trim in 11-19. Trim in 20-22. I'd like to have a no trim world but seems ok.

ugo.santalucia

I don't understand why they abandoned the simple and functional ratchet for that stupid pseudo-indexed solution... even Campagnolo went back to the older ratchet.
When I had Shimano shifters (and Mach 2 Centaur) I really hated the all front shifting thing

bendertherobot

It's been a while since I had it. But now we have 4 clicks and a complete inability to get enough tension into it without a barrel adjuster. Seems very backwards.

mugensi

bendertherobot wrote:

It's been a while since I had it. But now we have 4 clicks and a complete inability to get enough tension into it without a barrel adjuster. Seems very backwards.

I upgraded my bike from 5700 to 6800 and read every single 6800 thread on every single cycling forum in the entire world before buying and one resounding thing throughout them all was that barrel adjusters were absolutely and unequivocally required for setting up/adjusting the front derailleur. I have them on my bike and FD shifting and trimming works 100%, I get the very very slightest amount of rub when cross chaining in the big ring (when you simply don't want to change down to the small ring on a hill for fear of losing momentum/cadence etc)

ddraver

bendertherobot wrote:

It's been a while since I had it. But now we have 4 clicks and a complete inability to get enough tension into it without a barrel adjuster. Seems very backwards.

Deffo that (seems to be the same for 5800 105 too), I ve had to back the cable adjuster way off (as opposed to having it with a bit of positive/negative adjustment, then put a load of extra tension on...It seems good now though

If anyone can tell me what the funny white plastic cable thing is for though I'd be grateful...or what the small screws on the brakes are for exactly. The documentation is really very poor.

mugensi

ddraver wrote:

bendertherobot wrote:

It's been a while since I had it. But now we have 4 clicks and a complete inability to get enough tension into it without a barrel adjuster. Seems very backwards.

Deffo that (seems to be the same for 5800 105 too), I ve had to back the cable adjuster way off (as opposed to having it with a bit of positive/negative adjustment, then put a load of extra tension on...It seems good now though

If anyone can tell me what the funny white plastic cable thing is for though I'd be grateful...or what the small screws on the brakes are for exactly. The documentation is really very poor.

The white plastic thing is to help determine which position the clamping bolt should be. There are two positions (called on and off, I think) and depending on which side of the line the cable runs, you set the clamp bolt in the corresponding position



The small screws on the brakes are for centering the brakes.

bsharp77

I just built up a domane frame with 5800 and I got everything setup perfect....except the FD!
Despite 2 hours of trying, I got nowhere.
I admitted defeat and left it to the LBS who said I probably would never have got it - they say they have to set them 'wrong' then readjust once tensioned. The mechanic says the new 105 and ultegra front mechs are not good, but that the dura ace seems to be ok. As its not a big expense, I think ill upgrade it in due course as ill hopefully be able to set that one myself!