New Cassette has got the wobbles

1964johnr
1964johnr Posts: 179
edited February 2016 in Road general
I replaced a worn cassette on my winter bike recently and noticed problems when shifting in the higher gears. It kept jumping a gear on it's own or didn't shift when I pressed the shifter. On inspection the new cassette has a very pronounced wobble when under load. I took it off and checked all the spacers were there, and put it back being careful not to cross thread the lock ring, but the dam wobble is still there and I still have the shifting issues. Anyone got any ideas?

Comments

  • antsmithmk
    antsmithmk Posts: 717
    You sure you have all the components in the correct grooves and the individual gears the correct way round? Sounds like you flipped something 180 degrees during the install so it's not meshing correctly.
  • Moonbiker
    Moonbiker Posts: 1,706
    New chain fitted also?

    New cassete with old chain = problems
  • flasher
    flasher Posts: 1,734
    What cassette, what wheels, what hub?

    From the sound of things you're missing a spacer.
  • 1964johnr
    1964johnr Posts: 179
    There is a bit of general play in the cassette. I'm thinking perhaps I may have needed to have slotted a 1mm spacer on the hub before the first three sprockets went on. It's a 9 speed tiagra cassette. I'll also re check all the individual sprockets to check I haven't put one on the wrong way round. Do spacers go on either way round or is there one specific side that has to go on first ?
  • flasher
    flasher Posts: 1,734
    You shouldn't need a spacer on a 9 speed cassette.
  • milemuncher1
    milemuncher1 Posts: 1,472
    The freehub can go a bit oval over time. This causes an eccentricity error, which causes cassette wobble. Replace the freehub, cassette and chain, together. Job jobbed.
  • briantrumpet
    briantrumpet Posts: 20,440
    If it's a Shimano cassette on a Mavic hub, it might need an extra spacer before the cassette goes on - no matter how tight you screw it up, without the spacer it won't keep the cassette tight. Also I think new Shimano wheels that are made to take 11sp cassettes need a spacer if a 10sp (or less) cassette is used.
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  • 97th choice
    97th choice Posts: 2,222
    As above, if it's an 11sp compatible freehub you will need a spacer before the cassette goes on.
    Too-ra-loo-ra, too-ra-loo-rye, aye

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  • sungod
    sungod Posts: 17,379
    this lists various hub/cassette spacer requirements...

    http://www.slowtwitch.com/Tech/Cassette ... _3978.html
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  • briantrumpet
    briantrumpet Posts: 20,440
    sungod wrote:
    this lists various hub/cassette spacer requirements...

    http://www.slowtwitch.com/Tech/Cassette ... _3978.html" target="_blank
    Thanks - I'll save that chart for future reference.

    The last 10sp Shimano cassette I fitted had the extra spacer included for the 11sp hub.
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  • 1964johnr
    1964johnr Posts: 179
    Just sorted my problem out. I took the cassette off and removed all of the individual sprockets and spacers and started building it up again. There were three alignment holes on each of the spacers which aligned with three holes on each of the gear sprockets. Although my spacers were loaded okay and there didn't look like there was anything wrong, they obviously needed to be aligned with the sprocket in order for there to be no wobble effect. In other words there was only one way that the spacers should be loaded. Once I had done this the lock ring went on much better than before and I could do it up hand tight before setting the tork. It just goes to show that following instructions can save you a lot of time.

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