Pedals still spin when freewheeling

HullBorn
HullBorn Posts: 30
edited February 2016 in MTB workshop & tech
Hi,

As the subject says, my pedals still spin when freewheeling. If I keep my feet on the pedals the chain gets stuck and pulls the rear mech arm. There seems to be a bit of noise coming from the cassette/freehub.

I'm thinking there is a problem with the freehub, is there a way to check?

Cheers

Wayne

Comments

  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Take the freehub off!

    What make and model of hub?
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    +1; your freehub isn't behaving as it should. Needs removing / cleaning / lubricating or possibly replacing. Depends on what the hub and freehub are, and what state it's in.
  • Thanks,

    Do I need any special tools to remove the freehub. I have the tools to remove the cassette.

    Cheers
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    Depends what the wheel/freehub is. Some need tools, some don't.
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  • Thanks, I'll have a look later.
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    If it's a Shimano hub / freehub you'll need cone spanners to undo the locknut / cone at one end of the axle (easiest to do the non drive side), withdraw the axle from the opposite end, retrieve all the ball bearings then stick a 10mm allen key or hex bit in the end of the tubular nut in the centre of the freehub. Unscrews anticlockwise. The freehub then pulls off. Retrieve the spacer. Carefully pick out the rubber seal from the rear of the freehub, noting which way round it goes. Peer inside. If the internals are well corroded and bright orange, it's simplest to buy a new freehub. It is possible to strip them down, but it is quite fiddly and Shimano don't sell the spares separately. A dedicated tinkerer could source the (many, tiny) ball bearings necessary.
    If it's only a bit mucky in there, drizzle a load of light oil inside and see if it frees it up at all. Drain and repeat a few times till no more muck emerges, then lube it with a slightly heavier oil. I do mine once a year with 5W30 engine oil. Replace the seal and refit in reverse order remembering the spacer. Clean and regrease the bearings (I'd fit new ones if they are 3 years old), and take your time adjusting the cone / locknut on reassembly.

    Ignore all this if other make!
  • Thanks for the help so far.

    This is where I am. I've removed the cassette and axle. However I can't seem to remove the freehub. It's a Sun Ringle RYDE XMB hub it that makes a difference.

    hub1.jpg
    hub2.jpg

    Thanks

    Wayne.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    You can see inside the freehub in the lower photo the hex slot for an Allen key, strong clue on how to remove it....
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • stretchy
    stretchy Posts: 149
    Turn the motor off
  • Not sure what size hex key, Tried a 10mm, that's too small. Took it to the LBS and they said 13mm but they didn't have one. I'm thinking this is the replacement I need http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/sun- ... -prod54490 and they say 11mm