changing stock stem

necromunger
necromunger Posts: 105
edited February 2016 in MTB workshop & tech
i have ordered this but not sure if i can use the top cap and spacers i have already.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/111875749812? ... EBIDX%3AIT

will it be the case of taking the 1 i have off and just replacing it or will i need some other bits?

thanks

Comments

  • DSC_0258_1.jpg
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    It will probably have a larger stack height, so you'll have to remove some spacers if that is the case so the top of the steerer is 3-5mm below the top of the stem or top spacer.

    Bit of a radical change in stem length, and a full on clunky DH stem doesn't really look in keeping with the rest of your bike though!
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • problem is i keep losing the front end and crashing so thought a shorter stem would help get more weight on the front wheel.

    its not very nice going fast down hills so it has to go but as you say it will fit and remove 1 spacer but the screen has to fit over it, might be a bigger problem.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Your crashing issue sounds more like technique than the stem length.

    If yo had stopped at 60mm stem you'd have found a lot more choice of XC style stems, the Kalloy Uno is a serious quality piece of kit, crazy light and can be had for £15.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • o well its a tad to wide and the screen will not fit over it :(

    there is 1 on this just not sure what exact 1 they have used or a custom 1?

    https://www.e-bikeshop.co.uk/Electric-B ... l-PRO-2016
  • jamski
    jamski Posts: 737
    As others have said, a 60mm Kalloy Uno should work for you. Will bring more weight over the bars but still be thin enough for the screen. Bear in mind it will change your riding position and may well make you bike feel a tad smaller.
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  • i think its a tad big reach wise that is thus wanted a smaller stem like on my old bike had a black spire 1 and was 50mm.

    if all else fails will get a 60mm kalloy :)
  • right i got it on there but have a gap of 3mm all round bar to stem

    DSC_0263.jpg

    DSC_0262_1.jpg

    DSC_0264_1.jpg

    DSC_0265_1.jpg

    its the same size as the 1 i took of so not sure why i have a gap??
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    No idea, but even the gaps up top and bottom
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  • they are even now but there is still a gap, the bars are 31.8 so not sure why its like this.

    http://www.raceface.com/components/hand ... ter-riser/

    will get a m8 to have a look tomoz and see what he says cos it should fit with out gaps at all??
  • codfather
    codfather Posts: 359
    The stem body and faceplate should not be touching. If were then they wouldn't be clamping the bars. There needs to be a gap between the faceplate and the stem, but keep it consistent top and bottom by tightening the bolts evenly. The gap may be small, it may be large, depends on the design of the stem, but there needs to be one.
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  • its like this top and bottom now, just a bit bigger gap than the stock 1 i took off.

    DSC_0269_1.jpg

    you think that looks ok and safe to ride hard?
  • DSC_0270_1.jpg

    all good now and a lot better position for me on the bike:)
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Just for completeness, the Kalloy Uno is shaped and you are meant to do the one side bolts up tight with face pieces touching the stem and then clamp up using the other bolts (and don't pull the face pieces up to the stem), the instructions included are quiet clear, but normally as mentioned, even gap top and bottom.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.