Theese wheels

Moonbiker

Anygood?

https://www.ptcycles.co.uk/prod/25379/R ... as+224+99/

Rigga

Not sure but I would pay slightly more and get some fulcrum Racing 3 for not much more, they are quite a bit lighter and superb wheels. Think they are £288 at wiggle or £335 at merlin cycles with Conti gp 4000 tyres and tubes which is a complete bargain.

sloppyschleckonds

Moonbiker wrote:

Anygood?

Can you be more specific with your question?

keezx

Good stuff IMO, exept 1 niggle: mounting and removing tyres is hard on these rims.
The weight comes from the heavy solid hubs with steel axles, nothing to worry about.

Moonbiker

Not sure but I would pay slightly more and get some fulcrum Racing 3 for not much more, they are quite a bit lighter and superb wheels. Think they are £288 at wiggle or £335 at merlin cycles with Conti gp 4000 tyres and tubes which is a complete bargain.

Never had a modern very low spoke count wheel don't like the idea of being stranded if a spokes breaks, . Also have read spare spokes can be hard to get for some factory wheels?

Coming across a few people over the yrs on audax, sportives etc stranded miles from anywhere with buckled/unridable wheels after breaking one spoke has kind of made me reluctant to get them even they are cheaper lighter more aero etc.

Can you be more specific with your question?

Wheels would just used for everything, comuting, Sunday club rides, audax, sportive, TT, some circuit racing. so for there price and intended usage are theese wheels good value for the spec...

Reason for purchase is old wheels ma2 mavic rim wearing thin....

Good stuff IMO, exept 1 niggle: mounting and removing tyres is hard on these rims.

So enough to make changing an inner tube roadside just abit more annoying or a hour long ordeal?
I suppose it depends also on my skill at it which isn't the fastest/ with normal not super tight rims .

Just googled some other forum threads on theese rims people having alot of trouble fitting tyres and recommend tyres jacks:

http://www.cyclebasket.com/m23b93s281p9 ... ers_/RS_GB

keezx

Moonbiker wrote:

So enough to make changing an inner tube roadside just abit more annoying or a hour long ordeal?
I suppose it depends also on my skill at it which isn't the fastest/ with normal not super tight rims .

Just googled some other forum threads on theese rims people having alot of trouble fitting tyres and recommend tyres jacks:

http://www.cyclebasket.com/m23b93s281p9 ... ers_/RS_GB

If you need those things something is wrong with the design, I would avoid these rims.....
Several wheelbuilders build sets with Miche hubs and DT Swiss R460 rims, which are far easyer to tyres...
Prize might not far more than 200..

cycleclinic

Also the rim there is the version 1 which can crack if over tensioned. Many wheel builders found this I had a 4 go but in the main the V1 rim was fine for me (I clocked the thin spoke nipple bed). Tyre fitting is difficult for some tyres, impossible for others but with continental tyres it is pretty easy by hand. How good the rims are in the long run will depend on how well they are built.

built many V1 rims in 20F/24R and none broke spokes so again if a wheel is well built and it is stiff a low spoke count does not matter so long as the rider is not too heavy.

Spoke tension for the v1 rim should not exceed 1200N DS rear however I kept it to 1150N +/- 50N to be safe. Some rims were lighter than other may it was these that cracked.

Anonymous

Moonbiker wrote:

Never had a modern very low spoke count wheel don't like the idea of being stranded if a spokes breaks, . Also have read spare spokes can be hard to get for some factory wheels?

Coming across a few people over the yrs on audax, sportives etc stranded miles from anywhere with buckled/unridable wheels after breaking one spoke has kind of made me reluctant to get them even they are cheaper lighter more aero etc.

Never had any problems myself, and personally I think its a load of tosh.
Typical 'instant expert' talk that just gets repeated (as it is now).

fenix

Bit harsh there.

I was with a mate in the alpes who snapped a spoke on his ralf vectors. No chance to get spares so he had to buy a pair of mavics or write off the cycling week.

I've also snapped a spoke on my PX tubs front wheel and had to get rescued. Few years later snapped a rear spoke on a different wheel - had to get rescued.

If you ride enough on low spoke counts you will hit trouble. Now replaced with a more old school set of wheels with a higher spoke count. Your wheel will be out of true but you'll get home.

cycleclinic

Seen many high spoke count wheels in the shop with broken spokes. High spoke count guarantees nothing.

PX wheels are not know for the impeciable build quailty. First of all they use Pillar spokes which are O.K but Sapim or DT Swiss make the most fatigue resistant spokes there are. Also many off the shelf wheels don't exactly have even spoke tension or enough. Many also have too few spokes for the rider that is riding them.

One guy on a club run (120kg of him) bought a set of Shimano 16F/20R wheels the shop that sold them to him said shimano wheels dont go wrong. hmmmmm I don't he rides much thankfully for his wheels.

letap73

Carbonator wrote:

Moonbiker wrote:

Never had a modern very low spoke count wheel don't like the idea of being stranded if a spokes breaks, . Also have read spare spokes can be hard to get for some factory wheels?

Coming across a few people over the yrs on audax, sportives etc stranded miles from anywhere with buckled/unridable wheels after breaking one spoke has kind of made me reluctant to get them even they are cheaper lighter more aero etc.

Never had any problems myself, and personally I think its a load of tosh.
Typical 'instant expert' talk that just gets repeated (as it is now).

I'm not sure where you think the op is talking tosh? A low spoke Mavic Ksyrium with a broken spoke is a pain to get fixed and expensive.
To the op - up the budget by £100 and you are likely to get some very good reliable hand builts by a wheelbuilder such as cycleclinic.

fenix

thecycleclinic wrote:

Seen many high spoke count wheels in the shop with broken spokes. High spoke count guarantees nothing.

We all know that spokes break from time to time - but with a high spoke count the wheel won't be that much out of true and you can still ride home. On something like the Vectors - the wheel was so far out it was rubbing on the chainstay.

Anonymous

letap73 wrote:

Carbonator wrote:

Moonbiker wrote:

Never had a modern very low spoke count wheel don't like the idea of being stranded if a spokes breaks, . Also have read spare spokes can be hard to get for some factory wheels?

Coming across a few people over the yrs on audax, sportives etc stranded miles from anywhere with buckled/unridable wheels after breaking one spoke has kind of made me reluctant to get them even they are cheaper lighter more aero etc.

Never had any problems myself, and personally I think its a load of tosh.
Typical 'instant expert' talk that just gets repeated (as it is now).

I'm not sure where you think the op is talking tosh? A low spoke Mavic Ksyrium with a broken spoke is a pain to get fixed and expensive.
To the op - up the budget by £100 and you are likely to get some very good reliable hand builts by a wheelbuilder such as cycleclinic.

I did not say the OP was talking tosh.

The tosh talk is the overly repeated slagging off of low spoke count wheels, and instantly recommending massively high spoke count ones, or having ones built instead.
Often without any info about rider/use etc.

I have never had a problem with any wheels I have, and the only person I know who has is very heavy, and they were high spoke count cr4ppy stock wheels.
His new ones have slightly less spokes but are better quality Fulcrums. So far so good.

Most of the people saying this seem to be just repeating what they have heard said by someone else rather than having any actual experience of it. And as has been said, spokes break and can be a problem on all sorts of wheels.

Personally I feel (due to my actual experience over the years) its often quality rather than quantity that makes a bigger difference.

There are lots of reasons you could be 'stranded' and lots of rides where its not the end of the world.
I would try low/lower spoke count wheels if you want to and see for yourself, rather than have 36 hole hand built to protect yourself from something that may never happen, because someone on here has repeated something they heard said.

fenix

Feel free to discount my first hand experience then Carbonator - as it doesn't fit in with your experience.
The people concerned who broke spokes aren't huge - below average weight I'd say for a 6 foot male cyclist. I have been cycling for over 30 years now and I'd rather have a slightly less aero wheel than have to call to get picked up miles away from home.

letap73

You are preaching to the converted here Carbonater, however, the Op has listed a set of prequiste prior to your post. given that he has mentionned that he would want these wheels for audaxes, circuit racing etc, I would suggest appropriate handbuilts from a reputed builder like Cycleclinic, Ugo etc. My own personal favourite wheelset is a well tensioned low spoke factory wheelset which i would prefer over the one provided by the link the op posted in the first post. However, in this context, a good wheelbuilder can build a durable, strong wheelset with an appropriate number of spokes based on rider weight for £100 more:

1. H Plus Son Archetype Miche Primato hub build cycle clinic (24R 20F) circa £280.
2.http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Kinlin-XC279- ... 25b21b0c0c

In addition a good wheelbuilder usually backs up their products - the following is most definitely well worth the read:

http://thecycleclinic.co.uk/pages/wheelbuilding

SoSimple

Rigga wrote:

Not sure but I would pay slightly more and get some fulcrum Racing 3 for not much more, they are quite a bit lighter and superb wheels. Think they are £288 at wiggle or £335 at merlin cycles with Conti gp 4000 tyres and tubes which is a complete bargain.

I've got these wheels and totally agree with above comments - although the white hubs mean they are hibernating until spring!

cycleclinic

Fenix you take the example of a rolf wheel with almost no spokes and exptrapolate that if one goes you would therefore be better of with 32 or 36 spokes. So one extreme means you must default to the other extreme.

What everyone else is saying somewhere in between is just fine. Nothing wrong with high spoke count wheels but 24 or 28 at the back with the right rim, spokes and hub is often fine as well. In fact given the right combination a 24 or 28 spoke rear wheel could see longer spoke life than a 32 spoke build with mavic open pro's. there are lots of tricks that can be used to acheive this. Of course if those tricks are used with a 32 spoke wheel then ...

Moonbiker

Looks like i'll have to up my budget abit for handbuilt or just go for some factory wheels.

Any opinions on theese 3 others?: They are kind of handbuilt style factory wheels.

HUNT 4Season Dura Road:

http://www.huntbikewheels.com/collectio ... 23wide-229

New product so no feeback yet....

I quite like the ideal of the wider rims as they are the current fashion & suppose to be better for running 28c tyres cornerning etc.


Handbuilt Hope Road Series RS Wheels with the choice of Mavic Open Pro or Stans Alpha 400 rims:

https://www.merlincycles.com/hope-hoops ... 57956.html

Noisy freehub annoying? stans only good for tubless tyres?

Rose open pro 6800:

http://www.rosebikes.co.uk/article/road ... aid:716718

letap73

Seen some good initial reviews on Hunt wheels, howeverthere is no information with regards to longevity. The problem you have with the wheels you have listed is that the parts are selected for you with regards to the wheel sets. The Hunt wheels use Pillar triple butted spokes which are probably fantastic - however, wheel builders seem to favour Sapim or DT Swiss. With regards to the wheels from Merlin -most of the money has gone to the hubs -Hope hubs, however, I am not sure if they are better than Miche Hubs which I think are cheaper. The Mavic Open Pro rims are good rims but I think they are superceded by rim such the Archetype. It is worth refering to the handbuilt wheels thread and contacting some wheelbuilders giving them some riding details and saying what you want -then seeing what they come back with:

Here are some wheelbuilders you can start off with:
1.http://www.justridingalong.com/
2.http://www.moonglu.com/
3.http://thecycleclinic.co.uk/
4.http://www.spokesmanwheels.co.uk/

Hope this helps.

cycleclinic

when I looked at the spec of some hunt wheels I saw spokes with a 2.0mm elbow. triple butted should mean a 2.2mm or 2.3mm elbow. Other wise we could describe the Cx-ray as triple butted and they are not.

Sapim do the Force (2.2mm/1.8mm/2.0mm) and the CX-force with is the aero version. DT swiss have the alpine III and I can't remember what they call there aero version.