Inner Tubes - False Economy

bianchibob
bianchibob Posts: 306
edited January 2016 in Road buying advice
I have always regarded inner tubes as a throwaway item, ie. if I get a puncture rather than repair I would replace.
As a consequence of this philosophy I have always bought in bulk the cheapest inner tubes I can find and to date this has been Ribble Cycles - Yaw branded inner tubes.
However I have now revised this philosophy in that I am finding in my latest batch a high proportion of the tubes are unusable as the bond between the valve stem and the tube fails on inflation to a working pressure.
This failure is not always apparent prior to fitting to wheel but manifests itself a couple of days after the repair....necessitating another strip down etc.

I have therefore decided to purchase better quality tubes, Continental or Michelin in the hope that they have better quality control and hopefully slightly better puncture resistance, my theory being that the better inner tube might outlast two or three of the budget ones thus saving a bit of cash but more importantly the boring job of stripping down wheels at a moments notice.

Anyone have any views on this ?
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Comments

  • pblakeney
    pblakeney Posts: 26,983
    Carry a spare to replace on the road.
    Repair in luxury at home. A maximum of 3 patches per tube.
    The above may be fact, or fiction, I may be serious, I may be jesting.
    I am not sure. You have no chance.
    Veronese68 wrote:
    PB is the most sensible person on here.
  • marcusjb
    marcusjb Posts: 2,412
    I have always regarded inner tubes as a throwaway item, ie. if I get a puncture rather than repair I would replace.
    bianchibob wrote:
    Anyone have any views on this ?

    One of the reasons the earth is fucked encapsulated in a single sentence.
  • Tubeless is of course the real world solution... and the latex you use as self-healing material is a very small quantity of natural product.

    Handy, environmentally friendly and superior in performance in every possible way, what's not to like?
    left the forum March 2023
  • A maximum of 3 patches per tube.

    I've got tubes with many more than that on them! Occasionally I'll get a puncture that won't fix, but most of the time they get used until the valves go.
  • pblakeney
    pblakeney Posts: 26,983
    A maximum of 3 patches per tube.

    I've got tubes with many more than that on them! Occasionally I'll get a puncture that won't fix, but most of the time they get used until the valves go.
    It is a purely non scientific gut feeling random number choice.
    Each to their own, but there is no point in chucking out a tube for one flat.
    The above may be fact, or fiction, I may be serious, I may be jesting.
    I am not sure. You have no chance.
    Veronese68 wrote:
    PB is the most sensible person on here.
  • jrich
    jrich Posts: 278
    Why on earth would you regard an inner tube as a throw away item?!

    (If only they could screen for this sort idiocy in the womb, maybe we wouldn't be in quite such the mess that we are)
  • Bobbinogs
    Bobbinogs Posts: 4,841
    Why on earth would you regard an inner tube as a throw away item?!

    (If only they could screen for this sort idiocy in the womb, maybe we wouldn't be in quite such the mess that we are)

    I think you forgot to use [ironic] [/ironic] in that :wink:

    There are a few in my club that also think tubes are a disposable item. Mind you, they are usually the ones who's winter bike is an R3 with an Ass Saver fitted.
  • ayjaycee
    ayjaycee Posts: 1,277
    I always use Continental Race 28 inner tubes which I find very reliable out of the box (ie. no problems at the valves) but they will puncture just like any others. Shop around and they can be had for £3 each - indeed Halfords seem to be doing them at £2.99 and on 3 for 2 at the moment.

    I always carry a couple of new tubes on rides and simply replace in the event of a puncture. I usually take the holed ones home, they get patched and hung in the shed but I could never manage to fold them as well as they come out of the box and they are therefore too cumbersome to carry in my small saddle bag when I go out again. Generally, the only time a patched tube gets re-used is if I get the bike out at home to start a ride and notice the tyre has gone down overnight.
    Cannondale Synapse Carbon Ultegra
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  • Matthewfalle
    Matthewfalle Posts: 17,380
    Bit of a waste of money and destroying our planet what you are doing if you ask me.

    I patch, patch, patch and patch again: financial and environmental benefits.

    What's not to like?
    Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am

    De Sisti wrote:
    This is one of the silliest threads I've come across. :lol:

    Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honour :D
    smithy21 wrote:

    He's right you know.
  • Sounds like there might have been a quality control issue with a batch of tubes. I'd call the vendor for replacements unless you don't want to bother with the time.

    I've used lighter (maxxis ultralights) and heavier (michelin airstops) and never had an actual defect. Just punctures.

    And yes, patching a tube takes 5 minutes. Don't do it while out riding, but it is worth it for me (for both cost and waste).
  • itboffin
    itboffin Posts: 20,064
    Vittoria from planetx usually for about £1.50 replace out on the road and repair at home until the cut is too large
    Rule #5 // Harden The Feck Up.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
    Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
    Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    If you do go for Contis and you have a pump with a screw-on adapter, make sure you tighten the valve core before you use them. Few things more annoying than unscrewing the pump and having the valve core shoot past your ear as the tyre goes flat.
  • gimpl
    gimpl Posts: 269
    If you do go for Contis and you have a pump with a screw-on adapter, make sure you tighten the valve core before you use them. Few things more annoying than unscrewing the pump and having the valve core shoot past your ear as the tyre goes flat.

    This, this and this again !!

    You'll only make this mistake once - just hope it isn't in mid Jan when it's farking freezing.

    Good thing about the Conti tubes is removing the valve core and using tyre sealant in the tube - seems to be working for me so far. Also then thread locked the removable core.
  • marcusjb
    marcusjb Posts: 2,412
    It's not just Conti. Schwalbe have moved over to removable cores as well.

    Flipping annoying and you need to be very diligent in tightening them up the minute you buy them.

    Park Tools make this handy tool - http://www.parktool.com/product/valve-core-tool-vc-1

    (or use a pair of pliers! ;) )
  • Bobbinogs
    Bobbinogs Posts: 4,841
    I used a Conti tube once and it was all fine at home when using my track pump but out on the road I had to use my Lezyne which screws on...and more importantly screws off...suffered the valve core problem on a cold wet evening, never used them again.

    The Specialized inner tubes have a fixed valve core and have always worked well for me. 3 for a tenner.
  • ayjaycee
    ayjaycee Posts: 1,277
    If you do go for Contis and you have a pump with a screw-on adapter, make sure you tighten the valve core before you use them. Few things more annoying than unscrewing the pump and having the valve core shoot past your ear as the tyre goes flat.

    This yet again - I had completely forgotten about it as it has only happened to me once when I unscrewed the dust cap to put some air in before setting off and the valve came out with it. Since then, I always ensure that I tighten the valve on first use / unpacking. Like Marcus, I recommend the little park tools job which is tiny enough to go unnoticed into the corner of even the smallest saddle bag.
    Cannondale Synapse Carbon Ultegra
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    Specialized Crosstrail Comp Disk (For sale)
  • menthel
    menthel Posts: 2,484
    It's not just Conti. Schwalbe have moved over to removable cores as well.

    Flipping annoying and you need to be very diligent in tightening them up the minute you buy them.

    Park Tools make this handy tool - http://www.parktool.com/product/valve-core-tool-vc-1

    (or use a pair of pliers! ;) )

    No! Gits! That is the main reason I don't buy conti inners and go with Schwalbe. Oh the disappointment.
    RIP commute...
    Sometimes seen bimbling around on a purple Fratello Disc or black and red Aprire Vincenza.
  • on-yer-bike
    on-yer-bike Posts: 2,974
    Ive had the same problem with Michelin innertubes – the seal round the valve stem leaks very slowly. Its possible that when pushing on some track pump hoses, with a small amount of air in the tube, that the join gets damaged. I prefer smooth unthreaded valve stems hence Michelin but sometimes its a nightmare getting the air chuck to stay on. Still trying to find the ideal track pump.
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  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,667
    Destroying the planet because you throw an inner tube away? Give me a break.

    I think you have to take into account what else that person does (and the people who patch do) before coming out with crap like that.

    Few tubes a year is nothing. Maybe the guys patching are killing the planet way more overall?

    Just patch at home and donate to someone who needs them.
    Win/win :wink:

    I use latex (if not tubular, tubeless or self sealing) so straight in the bin!
  • mercia_man
    mercia_man Posts: 1,431
    Latex patch fine. What a waste to throw them in the bin after a puncture.
  • mercia_man
    mercia_man Posts: 1,431
    Ive had the same problem with Michelin innertubes – the seal round the valve stem leaks very slowly. Its possible that when pushing on some track pump hoses, with a small amount of air in the tube, that the join gets damaged. I prefer smooth unthreaded valve stems hence Michelin but sometimes its a nightmare getting the air chuck to stay on. Still trying to find the ideal track pump.

    I use Michelin latex tubes with smooth stems and agree that it can be a nightmare to get chuck to stay on, particularly when the rubber chuck washer is worn. I have suffered this problem with Silca and SKS Kompressor track pumps. However, I have recently bought a Lifeline Professional track pump (Wiggle own brand) and it's brilliant, as well as much cheaper than my previous pumps. It grips the valve stem really securely - yet I don't get the big air loss I got on the others when releasing the chuck.
  • I definitely regard road inner tubes as a disposable item. I have tried- and failed- to repair road inner tubes so many times I can't be bothered with it anymore.

    I can't get the old fashioned patch and glue to fit the tight radius of the tube properly (if it does stick it always gives out under pressure) and although I've had some success with the stretchy self adhesive patches, but these would also give out eventually as well. It might be the next day (the cause of my only puncture on a turbo- much to the amusement of the other club mates at the turbo session!) or a few months down the line.

    Instead I go for cheap tubes for everyday use (I only get 2-3 punctures a year, which I can live with) and more expensive tubes are left for the summer/ racing wheels. If I had a batch of faulty tubes I would return them, no matter how cheap they are! I haven't noticed a difference in puncture rate between cheap and expensive tubes so far.

    I have much more luck with mtb and touring inner tubes- I'm always surprised to see so many patches on my hybrid's tyres in those once in a blue moon occasions when I need to fix them again.
  • dazz_ni45
    dazz_ni45 Posts: 468
    Just about on topic, but are there any recommended repair kits or are they all just pretty much the same. Want to do my bit to save the planet!
  • mercia_man
    mercia_man Posts: 1,431
    Tip Top Touring patch kits work well on latex and butyl tubes for everything from skinny road tubes to fat mountain bike tubes. I've used them for decades. As for patches failing, I believe that if you take your time, use a good quality kit like Tip Top and do the job carefully, preferably indoors when you've completed your ride, your repair will last indefinitely. The tapered edges of Tip Top patches are much less likely to come unstuck than the sharp fatter edges of some cheap patches. I have never had a Tip Top patch fail on me when riding.

    It seems daft to me to throw away tubes just because you have had a puncture. The most annoying failures I occasionally get is when the rubber splits where it is joined to the valve stem, totally ruining the tube.
  • marcusjb
    marcusjb Posts: 2,412
    Tip Top for sure. You can buy sheets of the patches from eBay and the 'glue' lasts forever if you put the cap on tightly.

    I have always tied a knot in a tube that that has got a puncture (to stop me picking it up and putting it in a bag and riding with it etc.). I then wait until there's a few of them (being very light, this does take a long time, usually about every 6 months) and then I will sit and repair 4 or 5 tubes at once. It's a nice relaxing job with almost instant gratification!
  • cycleclinic
    cycleclinic Posts: 6,865
    yes go tubeless but the ammount of resistance and hesitation to this "new idea" amazes me. You don't find any serious MTB riders using tubes anymore (well I am sure there are some but they are found at the side of a trail fixing punctures). There is a good reason for that same applies to road bikes.
    http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.
  • Planet X lightweight tubes, top quality, light and just £2 each. And no separate valve core. Perfect.
  • Carbonator wrote:
    Destroying the planet because you throw an inner tube away?

    Depends upon where and when you throw it away....

    Throw it away into the bin - fine.
    Throw it away into the recycling centres - excellent
    Throw it away over your shoulder wherever you have punctured - You're an extremely annoying and stupid person!!!
  • neeb
    neeb Posts: 4,471
    menthel wrote:
    It's not just Conti. Schwalbe have moved over to removable cores as well.

    Flipping annoying and you need to be very diligent in tightening them up the minute you buy them.

    Park Tools make this handy tool - http://www.parktool.com/product/valve-core-tool-vc-1

    (or use a pair of pliers! ;) )

    No! Gits! That is the main reason I don't buy conti inners and go with Schwalbe. Oh the disappointment.
    Whereas I won't buy inner tubes without removable cores - if the valve breaks or sticks you are screwed. But I always carry a spare valve core and the park tool, they're both tiny and weigh nothing. And at some point I will be a hero by being able to provide one or the other to someone else when they really need it.. :)
  • neeb
    neeb Posts: 4,471
    I definitely regard road inner tubes as a disposable item. I have tried- and failed- to repair road inner tubes so many times I can't be bothered with it anymore.

    I can't get the old fashioned patch and glue to fit the tight radius of the tube properly (if it does stick it always gives out under pressure) and although I've had some success with the stretchy self adhesive patches, but these would also give out eventually as well. It might be the next day (the cause of my only puncture on a turbo- much to the amusement of the other club mates at the turbo session!) or a few months down the line.
    The trick is to get the right repair kit with patches that are small enough for road tyres. I always use the Rema Tip Top TT04 "Sport" (NOT the TT02 "Touring", which has bigger patches).

    Always roughen the tube first. Make sure roughened area as well as the subsequent glued area actually extends beyond all edges of where the patch will go. Don't touch the back of the patch after peeling off the foil. Press hard all around the edges after applying the patch. When peeling off the transparent backing it's best to do it from the middle so as not to lift the edges of the patch (there is an almost invisible slit in the backing that assists this). Press around edges again. And I always apply French chalk to prevent sticking to the tyre, although this doesn't seem to be provided in kits these days. I have a stick that I must have used for 15 years, it lasts forever... (but don't use the same bit of sandpaper to grate it that you use to roughen the tyre).