removing pedals from fsa omega cranks

kingrollo
kingrollo Posts: 3,198
edited January 2016 in Road beginners
Collected a new to me giant defy 2 yesterday - I want to swap the pedals for spd - predictably they wont shift - I ve noticed an allen key type bolt at the rear where the pedals threads in - do I need to slacken this first ? - or is just brute force with the pedal wrench ?

Comments

  • sungod
    sungod Posts: 17,438
    do you mean there's a hex recess in the pedal axle? some have this instead of/as well as flats for a wrench

    plus side is a hex key doesn't slip off, but if they're really tight it may snap a hex key

    i'd persist with the wrench

    a good way of getting high leverage is to position the crank horizontal pointing towards the front of the bike, put the wrench on so that it extends forwards following the line of the crank, chock the end of the wrench with something solid and stable (breeze block, kerb, etc.), hold the bike steady, put your foot on the pedal and slowly apply weight until it releases
    my bike - faster than god's and twice as shiny
  • ForumNewbie
    ForumNewbie Posts: 1,664
    Yes, it will be for an Allen key and I find it easier do get the pedals off with an Allen key rather than with a pedal wrench.
  • foot_loose
    foot_loose Posts: 72
    Be sure you are trying to turn them the right way to undo. Left side is reverse threaded.
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    Depends on the size of the hex socket. My M540s have a large hex socket and nothing else, so I use a chunky allen key on them, sometimes with a bit of pipe for extra leverage when removing.

    My M520s in contrast have flats for a pedal spanner, so I use that. But there's also a smaller hex socket in the end of the axle. I read a while ago in something from Shimano that this isn't to be used for tightening / loosening the pedals, so I'm not sure why it's there...

    I'd soak the threads in Plusgas or similar for 24 hours then have another go with the pedal spanner. Make sure the chain's on the big ring; not quite as painful if you inadvertently punch it then. Cable tie the crank to the chainstay and / or place a suitably sized block of wood under the pedal if a bit of stability will help.

    And if you do succeed in removal, obv copperslip on the threads of the new pedals before installation.
  • kingrollo
    kingrollo Posts: 3,198
    Thanks all,

    Big Ian is going to hit it with a lump hammer one night this week - if that fails it will be a visit to the LBS...
  • ForumNewbie
    ForumNewbie Posts: 1,664
    When I remove pedals I find it easier to hold the opposite crank to get the best leverage whether using an Allen key or pedal wrench. I think when the cranks are horizontal it gives the best leverage.

    I assume that you know the right way to unscrew them. The right pedal removes anticlockwise and the left pedals unscrews clockwise. However the easiest way for me to remember it is to loosen both pedals by turning the wrench downwards towards the back of the bike, and when putting pedals back on I screw towards the front of the bike.
  • svetty
    svetty Posts: 1,904
    Best have the chain on the big ring when removing pedals as you can get a nasty laceration if wrench/Allen Key flies loose whilst you're torquing hard.

    When re-fitting use grease/copper slip and don't torque then up tight - they don't need it.
    FFS! Harden up and grow a pair :D
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    [url=http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=19782485#p19782485]Svetty[/url] wrote:
    Best have the chain on the big ring when removing pedals as you can get a nasty laceration if wrench/Allen Key flies loose whilst you're torquing hard.

    When re-fitting use grease/copper slip and don't torque then up tight - they don't need it.

    You could always read the earlier posts; save yourself a bit of typing... :wink:
  • kingrollo
    kingrollo Posts: 3,198
    Its off - had to remove the crank - big ian took it to work - put in a vice and freed it it up with a bloody big spanner.....!

    Just got to put it back together now !
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    kingrollo wrote:
    Its off - had to remove the crank - big ian took it to work - put in a vice and freed it it up with a bloody big spanner.....!

    Just got to put it back together now !

    Not forgetting the copperslip on the pedal threads :D
  • keezx
    keezx Posts: 1,323
    ForumNewbie wrote:
    Yes, it will be for an Allen key and I find it easier do get the pedals off with an Allen key rather than with a pedal wrench.

    Until a pedal is stuck.
  • kingrollo
    kingrollo Posts: 3,198
    Grease is the key......!

    I wanted to stick my MTB pedals on this road bike - I put them on years ago - with a fair dollop of grease....the flew off easily today - and onto the road bike .....in around 5 minutes.....!
  • CiB
    CiB Posts: 6,098
    When you fit pedals don't overtighten them - the l/h & r/h threads make them stay in place anyway so all it needs is for them to be nipped up to keep them in, with the copperslip in place.

    Take them out every few months and refit them, so that they don't have a chance to seize through never being undone.
  • lesfirth
    lesfirth Posts: 1,382
    Shimano recommend 35 -55 N -m. That is not what I call" nipped up", but dont worry if your pedal comes off you will not be the first person it has happened to and it might not happen in a sprint. There is plenty of advice on this forum on how to mend pedal threads in alloy cranks.

    Personally I put a bit of copperslip on the threads and do what Shimano recommend. What you do is your choice. :D
  • CiB
    CiB Posts: 6,098
    Feel free to split hairs over what nipping up actually means. I place it somewhere between finger tight & grunt tight, with thread size factored into that. Pedals don't unscrew themselves, and can't if they've been nipped up. They're a sight easier to get out when you want to get them out though.

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