How to eliminate front suspension

pete1336
pete1336 Posts: 86
edited January 2016 in MTB workshop & tech
I am currently using a Specialized Hardrock mtb for commuting back and to work. I'd like to try and reduce as much as possible, if not eliminate the vertical movement in the front suspension. Is this possible?
Thanks
Peter

Comments

  • oodboo
    oodboo Posts: 2,171
    Swap them for rigid forks?
    I love horses, best of all the animals. I love horses, they're my friends.

    Strava
  • codfather
    codfather Posts: 359
    Not knowing what forks they are, it's hard to say. There may be a lockout switch, there may not. Replacing them with rigid forks would be inexpensive; the result would have no movement and be substantially lighter
    Current fleet
    2015 Transition Scout
    2012 Nukeproof Scalp
    2016 Genesis Latitude
    2012 Transition Double
    2012 Transition Trail or Park

    2006 Trek SL1000
    2017 Fly Proton
    ???? Create Polo Bike
  • poah
    poah Posts: 3,369
    if they are air forks put more air in them
  • JodyP
    JodyP Posts: 193
    Its a bit ghetto but how about a strip of rubber and a jubilee clip round the stanchion :lol:
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Pull of the seals, scratch the stanchions and pour in salty water so they rust solid.

    Or fit some lightweight Mosso forks off ebay, about a 1.5Kg weight saving on low end suspension forks for about £45-50, forgiving ride and better aero as well.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • rockmonkeysc
    rockmonkeysc Posts: 14,774
    If they're the original Suntour forks they should sieze soon.
  • swod1
    swod1 Posts: 1,639
    If they're the original Suntour forks they should sieze soon.

    mine on my trek still work but the fork stanchions started to rust.

    to the original question ad more preload to the forks to make them nearly solid.
    The Rookie wrote:
    Pull of the seals, scratch the stanchions and pour in salty water so they rust solid.

    Or fit some lightweight Mosso forks off <a title="" class="skimwords-link" href="http://ebay.co.uk&quot; target="_blank" data-skim-node-id="159:Orfitsomelightweight_2" occurrence="1" data-skim-product="874161" data-skim-creative="300001" data-group-id="0" data-skimwords-word="ebay" data-skimlinks-editor="0" data-skimwords-id="874161">ebay</a><span style="position: absolute;"></span><span style="position: absolute;"></span>, about a 1.5Kg weight saving on low end suspension forks for about £45-50, forgiving ride and better aero as well.

    Are these for 26inch wheels as would be interested in some for a cycle to work bike i'm thinking of building up
  • Chunkers1980
    Chunkers1980 Posts: 8,035
    You could use the rubez method and fill them with concrete, but I prefer rookie's salt water as that'd be quicker and simpler.
  • mattyfez
    mattyfez Posts: 638
    Was just about to suggest what rock monkey said.. The cheapest solution to sieze forks is to let them get wet and don't maintain them and they'll seize up all by themselves.. Haha.. With the added bonus that they will still give if you hit something hard. Best of both worlds? Lol
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    If they're the original Suntour forks they should sieze soon.

    mine on my trek still work but the fork stanchions started to rust.

    to the original question ad more preload to the forks to make them nearly solid.
    The Rookie wrote:
    Pull of the seals, scratch the stanchions and pour in salty water so they rust solid.

    Or fit some lightweight Mosso forks off <a title="" class="skimwords-link" href="http://ebay.co.uk&quot; target="_blank" data-skim-node-id="159:Orfitsomelightweight_2" occurrence="1" data-skim-product="874161" data-skim-creative="300001" data-group-id="0" data-skimwords-word="ebay" data-skimlinks-editor="0" data-skimwords-id="874161">ebay</a><span style="position: absolute;"></span><span style="position: absolute;"></span>, about a 1.5Kg weight saving on low end suspension forks for about £45-50, forgiving ride and better aero as well.

    Are these for 26inch wheels as would be interested in some for a cycle to work bike i'm thinking of building up
    No idea as your link is scrambled, but these are what I use on my commuter
    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MOSSO-26-MTB-Aluminium-7005-Straight-Fork-DISC-V-Brake-BLACK-CH15C-/251410165768?hash=item3a8936b008:g:GxgAAOxyn~pR0T3v
    You need to go through the listings as they come in different axle to crown lengths and you need to buy one the same length as the sagged suspension fork (so about 25mm shorter than the quoted AtoC (Axle to Crown) for a 100mm suspension fork). If you are running disc brakes the nominal wheel size is irrelevant, it's only when running V-brakes do you need to get it for the right wheel size so the pads match to the rim location. Mine have been run with 26", 700c and 29er tyres.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • FishFish
    FishFish Posts: 2,152
    A Unicycle may solve your problem.
    ...take your pickelf on your holibobs.... :D

    jeez :roll: