TRP HY/RD or Shimano hydraulics...

lawman
lawman Posts: 6,868
edited January 2016 in Road buying advice
Taking delivery of my new Genesis Datum 10 next week, originally had a 20 on order but got fed up of waiting for it to arrive so when a 10 came up in my size I jumped on it!! Everything bar the drivetrain and brakes are identical between the two models but I'm unsure on the TRP HY/RD brakes as I was originally wanting the 20 which came with Shimano hydraulics and 11-speed 105 as opposed to the 10 speed tiagra and TRP brakes on the 20. I guess my question is need I be worried? Is it worth upgrading to the shimanos now and flog the TRP/tiagra mix? Merlin have great deals on the shimanos at the minute so I'm tempted as it wouldn't cost a huge amount, but at the same time if folks say the TRP's are the best thing since sliced bread it might be money down the drain... Thoughts?

Comments

  • TRP HyRD are good and easy to live with.
    I don't think any current setup with 140/160 mm discs is amazing to be honest... we are a few years away from MTB standards.
    There's good and bad in both systems, but ultimately it's down to how good your brakes need to be. If you go down Bwlch Y Groes regularly, then maybe your brakes are that important, otherwise less so
    left the forum March 2023
  • meanredspider
    meanredspider Posts: 12,337
    The HyRds will be fine though not as good (or "nice") as full hydraulics.

    I run a single HyRd on the front of my Volagi (BB7 on the back on a 160/140 set up - I hardly use the rear brake) - and it has been absolutely fine. Even with a faulty 1st generation HyRd that didn't adequately self-adjust, I did 5 descents of Alpe D'Huez at pace and didn't have issues (apart from the adjustment). I've done plenty of other fast descents since that and had no problem. At somewhere between 85 and 95kg, I'm not a light guy and I like descending fast.

    I've just started riding a Jamis Renegade with Di2 hydro brakes. They are better and they feel nicer partly because there's no friction so the "pull" feels nicer and smoother. That said, over Xmas I did the Rapha Festive 500 and did 4 days (of the 8 ) on each bike. It didn't leave me feeling that I must fit hydraulic to the Volagi. It would be "nice" to have but only in the same way that 11-sp 105 would be "nicer" than 10-sp Tiagra.
    ROAD < Scott Foil HMX Di2, Volagi Liscio Di2, Jamis Renegade Elite Di2, Cube Reaction Race > ROUGH
  • kajjal
    kajjal Posts: 3,380
    My bike has 785 brakes with 685 shifters (105 11 speed). They are similar to XT mountain bike brakes and work very well. The reason i got them was being very tall, 100kg and riding in the wet i wanted powerful, controlled braking. Rim brakes only came close to this in the dry.
  • veronese68
    veronese68 Posts: 27,811
    I'd rather wait for the one with proper hydraulics. Otherwise I'd never be completely happy and every time I ride the bike I'd wonder if I should have waited. A slightly longer wait will be suffering now, but happier in the long term.
  • meanredspider
    meanredspider Posts: 12,337
    I'd rather wait for the one with proper hydraulics. Otherwise I'd never be completely happy and every time I ride the bike I'd wonder if I should have waited. A slightly longer wait will be suffering now, but happier in the long term.

    +1 I wrote that then deleted it from my original post figuring the OP was looking for reassurance. But I totally agree.
    ROAD < Scott Foil HMX Di2, Volagi Liscio Di2, Jamis Renegade Elite Di2, Cube Reaction Race > ROUGH
  • It's a tricky one. I've been looking at the BB7 equipped £999 Viner Strada Bianca. Next one up is £1499 with same spec but subs in Rival Hydro. So they're asking £499 for that premium in effect. To be fair the BB7 version is reduced.

    So I could get that £999 one and hock the BB7's and shifters for say £200 ish. Then spend £150 more and get the hydros and be better off.

    Hmm. I wonder if they'll do a 12% code this week. Really wish I'd done the 20% code thing on Xmas day.
    My blog: http://www.roubaixcycling.cc (kit reviews and other musings)
    https://twitter.com/roubaixcc
    Facebook? No. Just say no.
  • meanredspider
    meanredspider Posts: 12,337
    Although on the occasion we're talking the entire group set that would need changing I think - as it would be a 10 to 11 speed change too (caveat is that I haven't kept track if there's any 10sp hydro brifters - but I don't think so)
    ROAD < Scott Foil HMX Di2, Volagi Liscio Di2, Jamis Renegade Elite Di2, Cube Reaction Race > ROUGH
  • Although on the occasion we're talking the entire group set that would need changing I think - as it would be a 10 to 11 speed change too (caveat is that I haven't kept track if there's any 10sp hydro brifters - but I don't think so)

    Yep. I was going to ask that earlier. I doubt you'd realistically get much more than £300 all in for a Tiagra plus Hy Rd sale. Ultegra is about £620.

    It's actually cheaper, depending on where you look, to get the Datum 20 in the first place if it's the whole shebang upgrade.

    Or get a Rival equipped Strada Bianca from Planet X.
    My blog: http://www.roubaixcycling.cc (kit reviews and other musings)
    https://twitter.com/roubaixcc
    Facebook? No. Just say no.
  • kajjal
    kajjal Posts: 3,380
    I'd rather wait for the one with proper hydraulics. Otherwise I'd never be completely happy and every time I ride the bike I'd wonder if I should have waited. A slightly longer wait will be suffering now, but happier in the long term.

    +1 I wrote that then deleted it from my original post figuring the OP was looking for reassurance. But I totally agree.

    Depending on the wait that's what i woukd be thinking.
  • I have TRP spyres on my winter bike and I have Sram Force Hydro and Shimano Ultegra Hydro on my CX bikes. The difference is night and day.

    Dont make do if you can have what you want
  • lawman
    lawman Posts: 6,868
    Thanks for the input folks much appreciated :) the Datum 20 for me is still a good 4 months away, I've had one on order for 3 months already as well :( I'm thinking I'm just going to stick with the 10 and get it this week. I'm just thinking am I really going to be bothered by not having the full hydraulics for what it'll mostly be used for? It'll mostly be commuting, weekend road rides and maybe very light off road action from time to time. The TRP's seem to get feedback and like I say I'm not sure they justify a) the extra expense and b) another 4 months without a bike. Had folks said the TRPs were crap it could have been different!! :lol:
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,667
    HY\RD's are very overrated IMO/IME.

    Much better than the full mechanical Shimano's that were on my bike, but I should have gone fully hydraulic or just cut my losses and got a new bike with SRAM Force :twisted:

    New bikes with HY/RD's are an odd proposition IMO.
  • meanredspider
    meanredspider Posts: 12,337
    HY\RD's are very overrated IMO/IME.
    5800 rim brakes with decent pads are more powerful!

    Much better than the full mechanical Shimano's that were on my bike, but I should have gone fully hydraulic or just cut my losses and got a new bike with SRAM Force :twisted:

    New bikes with HY/RD's are an odd proposition IMO.

    I can empathise with the new bike, of course :wink:

    But there's no way 5800 rim brakes are better than HyRds - even in the dry, let alone the wet. All I can imagine is that your pads aren't properly bedded-in or glazed or something like that.
    ROAD < Scott Foil HMX Di2, Volagi Liscio Di2, Jamis Renegade Elite Di2, Cube Reaction Race > ROUGH
  • DeVlaeminck
    DeVlaeminck Posts: 9,104
    The TRPs are good, about as good as decent rim brakes in the dry, a little better in the wet, ymmv. Never used full hydro road brakes.
    [Castle Donington Ladies FC - going up in '22]
  • HY\RD's are very overrated IMO/IME.
    5800 rim brakes with decent pads are more powerful!

    Much better than the full mechanical Shimano's that were on my bike, but I should have gone fully hydraulic or just cut my losses and got a new bike with SRAM Force :twisted:

    New bikes with HY/RD's are an odd proposition IMO.

    I can empathise with the new bike, of course :wink:

    But there's no way 5800 rim brakes are better than HyRds - even in the dry, let alone the wet. All I can imagine is that your pads aren't properly bedded-in or glazed or something like that.


    I 100% agree. I live at the foot of the Bwlch and Rhigos Mnts in South Wales and I made the switch to TRP HY RD on my wet weather Steed as previous descending off the mountains in the rain on rim brakes left me nervous at times to say the least. Since the switch to HY RD i'm descending in the rain (almost) like a dry sunny day on my rim brake "Number 1" bike.

    They are not as good as full hydraulic but miles better than rim brakes in the wet.
  • MikeBrew
    MikeBrew Posts: 814
    SRAM 700 seems to be the 10 speed hydro option. Thing is, it's daftly-dear at £299(from CRC) for left shift and caliper,plus the same for the other side ! Does anyone know where Rival L+R hydro shifters plus calipers can be had for a reasonable price ? Everywhere I've looked it's seems to be sold seperately @ about £199 per side (or front/rear if you prefer), £400 just for shifters/levers and calipers seems a bit steep.
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,667
    I deleted the 5800 comment but pretty much stand by it.
    5800 with Swissstop pads are awsome. HyRd's are a disappointment.

    No real point in going on about wet performance to offset their weakness on dry days.

    My pads are 'bedded in'. Load of BS that is though IME anyway. Its what people say to avert the initial shock of cable disc brake poor performance.
    Why don't full hydraulic disc brakes need bedding in? Brand new SRAM Force would either lock the wheel or have my fat ar5e over the bars!

    Maybe something is wrong. I will try another bike with them on and see if they feel any different to how mine felt from new.

    My guess is that a lot of people just do not want to admit their £200 upgrade is a bit pants.
  • meanredspider
    meanredspider Posts: 12,337
    What makes you think that full hydro pads don't need bedding-in? Of course they do. All disc brake pads - including those on cars, need bedding-in. It makes the world of difference in my experience.

    Disc brakes aren't magic though. They need setting up properly, they need to be bedded-in (neither of which is hard) and you need to avoid contamination. Do those things properly and they are better in all conditions in my experience to rim brakes using Swissstop pads.
    ROAD < Scott Foil HMX Di2, Volagi Liscio Di2, Jamis Renegade Elite Di2, Cube Reaction Race > ROUGH
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,667
    I don't think they do not need bedding in.
    My point was that its never said of full hydro, because people never question full hydro performance when looking at a new bike.
    People try cable and are quickly told "they need bedding in" when performance is questioned.

    Decent rim (5800 up) and half decent full hydro must be 'magic' then as they have always worked faultlessly out of the box for me, and I am sticking with them in future.

    I am just saying it as I find it.
  • mikenetic
    mikenetic Posts: 486
    One thing to consider is the new 105 Hydraulic brifters are really chunky, much more so than the mechanical version or the Ultegra hydro.
  • meanredspider
    meanredspider Posts: 12,337
    It is said of full hydro but there aren't that many full hydro road bikes yet. It is said of MTBs.

    But that's OK. We all have different experiences. I have a road bike with rim brakes, one with mechanical discs and one with hydro discs. I have no axe to grind but I'm very clear on their relative performances in the full range of conditions.
    ROAD < Scott Foil HMX Di2, Volagi Liscio Di2, Jamis Renegade Elite Di2, Cube Reaction Race > ROUGH
  • meanredspider
    meanredspider Posts: 12,337
    One thing to consider is the new 105 Hydraulic brifters are really chunky, much more so than the mechanical version or the Ultegra hydro.

    I didn't think that there was such a thing yet as 105 or Ultegra hydraulic brifters. I think that there's 685 - mech hydro brifters and 785 - Di2 hydro brifters. 685 are quite big where 785 are smaller (same size as non-hydro Di2 brifters)
    ROAD < Scott Foil HMX Di2, Volagi Liscio Di2, Jamis Renegade Elite Di2, Cube Reaction Race > ROUGH
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,667
    One thing to consider is the new 105 Hydraulic brifters are really chunky, much more so than the mechanical version or the Ultegra hydro.

    Why is that something to consider?
  • meanredspider
    meanredspider Posts: 12,337
    It might be in the OP's original title question.
    ROAD < Scott Foil HMX Di2, Volagi Liscio Di2, Jamis Renegade Elite Di2, Cube Reaction Race > ROUGH
  • veronese68
    veronese68 Posts: 27,811
    One thing to consider is the new 105 Hydraulic brifters are really chunky, much more so than the mechanical version or the Ultegra hydro.

    Why is that something to consider?
    Some people worry about such things.
    Regarding hydraulics not needing to bed in, I've not tried full hydraulics on a drop bar bike so can't comment. But loish spec hydraulics on my old MTB definitely needed bedding in after a pad change. XT on my current MTB didn't need it, or didn't feel like they needed it. Now they have had some use they are vastly more powerful, so I guess they did but are powerful enough that it doesn't feel like it.
  • trailflow
    trailflow Posts: 1,311
    One thing to consider is the new 105 Hydraulic brifters are really chunky, much more so than the mechanical version or the Ultegra hydro.

    I didn't think that there was such a thing yet as 105 or Ultegra hydraulic brifters. I think that there's 685 - mech hydro brifters and 785 - Di2 hydro brifters. 685 are quite big where 785 are smaller (same size as non-hydro Di2 brifters)

    He's referring to these
    http://road.cc/content/news/147376-shimano-hydraulic-discs-trickle-down-105-level