Cannondale Tiagra 2016 Carbon or Boardman Road Team Carbon
steviek
Posts: 7
I'm looking to buy my first (and possibly only) road bike at the age of 59. Typically I ride alone or with a group on 30-50 mile cruiser rides once a week with shorter midweek rides in summer months. I've been looking at the Cannondale Tiagra (£1350) and the Boardman Road Team Carbon (£1000 but currently on offer at £750). I can't decide if the Cannondale will be worth the extra money. This might be the only decent bike I ever buy so I'd welcome any advice on these or other options. Thanks
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Both good bikes - I have a Cannondale Supersix (guessing you are looking at the Synapse) and it's a great ride. The only thing about Cannondales is that they discount heavily so if you want the new model you will pay a big premium. I'd expect a better group set than Tiagra on a £1300+ bike. You could pick up a 2015 synapse with 105 for £1200:
(http://www.paulscycles.co.uk/m7b65s6p5762/CANNONDALE-SYNAPSE-CARBON-105-6-2015)
I bought my bike from Pauls and know quite a few lads I know have also picked up Cannondales from them; no issues when I bought mine.
The Boardman is a good bike too and worth trying out if you are unsure whether to spend the extra.
You'll enjoy either would be my guess though.All the gear and no idea...0 -
I guess Cannondale is a Caad or Supersix? - would be a 'similar' geo to Boardman Road. Personally. I would advise going to as many shops as you can and sit on as many bikes before deciding. The Boardman is a race aimed bike so may not be as comfortable as something like a Defy or Synapse etc, and if speed isn't main object then something with a more relaxed geometry may be more suitable.0
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Not sure how quick you want one but Canyon offer quality bikes with cracking group sets but problem is depending on size and bike you will have to wait for delivery.
E.g.
https://www.canyon.com/en-gb/road/endurace/2016/endurace-al-7-0.html
£1049 with ultegra set!0 -
Thanks for the advice. Yes the Cannondale is the 2016 Synapse. I am tempted by the Boardman because it's reduced from £999 to £749. But I may be able to use Cycle to Work which I estimate would make the Cannondale £1149 and payable over12 months. I don't want to "underbuy" if you know what I mean. I want a good bike. Thanks for eth Canyon suggestion too. I didn't think it would be so confusing!0
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Sorry for the hijacking of your post. I , like the OP am very much taken by the Boardman carbon road bike.
http://www.halfords.com/cycling/bikes/road-bikes/boardman-road-team-carbon-bike
I am 34, fit and do a lot of XC mountain bike racing on a carbon 29er HT (apologies for being on the dark side)
I want a half decent road bike just to keep fitness up and maybe do the odd sportive etc and price will also play a part as the vast majority of my money has gone on MTBs.
Just how good is this group set and is it worth sticking with until parts give up the ghost? Also, the wheels seem a bit heavy for being on a carbon road bike (guess cost cutting to keep price low). How good are these wheels and should I look to upgrade or just ride with them for the coming year?
Sorry for the hijack again and also for my blatant lack of knowledge of the road bike scene.
ThanksConstantly trying to upgrade my parts.It is a long road ahead as things are so expensive for little gain. n+1 is always the principle in my mind.0 -
Ref the above, a GS with Tiagra/105 is going to be very good, particularly if well setup and well maintained. There is usually no need to upgrade beyond Tiagra (since modern Tiagra can shift very well) but need has little to do with a lot of things. FSA (chainring) can get a few bad comments regarding quality but, as long as it works, again there would be no need to replace.
I am no big fan of the Tektro 540 brakes but, rather than change the brakes, I would just change the pads for something decent like Flashpro or Swisstop. That will make a massive difference for only £20.
Next up, when the tyres are worn after getting some mileage on them, it will be time to go for something a lot nicer/faster (e.g., GPS4000sII) for the spring/summer.
Lastly, the wheels. The blurb only gives the rim details which kind of overlooks the hubs/spokes and the quality of the build. The Mavic rims are OK though and good enough to get anyone going (I did my first 100 mile hilly sportive on a set of CXP22s made up with Tiagra hubs). When spring comes, if you are flush with cash then I would suggest replacing them for something like Zondas and keep the old wheels for winter usage. The Zondas will feel really sprightly...but won't make a massive difference to your climbing as they will shave about one water bottle's worth of weight off the package (which generally includes ~80kg of rider).0 -
Can you explain the water bottle (assuming full) reference as it always confuses me.
Surely you have a full water bottle because you need it, and even if not, how is it related to what wheels (or anything else) that are on the bike?
Why mention rider weight? The bike has to have a rider!
Does that logic not just = Make it heavier, it does not matter?0 -
Can you explain the water bottle (assuming full) reference as it always confuses me.
Surely you have a full water bottle because you need it, and even if not, how is it related to what wheels (or anything else) that are on the bike?
Why mention rider weight? The bike has to have a rider!
Does that logic not just = Make it heavier, it does not matter?
I reckon that the Zondas will be about 500g lighter than the stock wheels...or about the weight of a full water bottle which is a handy reference for most cyclists, nothing more than that, as in to understand the magical properties of saving 500g, ride a hill with a full water bottle, empty it and see if you will fly up the same hill next time...probably not, IME.
The point about rider weight is that it helps put 500g into context in that obsessing over 500g is pretty much insignificant when it comes to a rider of 80kg. That doesn't mean that trying to save weight is not a good thing...more a case that the savings/benefits, costs and options can be understood before purchase. Hope that makes sense? I am firmly in the "light wheels feel nice" camp but only because they feel nice rather than equate to a breath taking improvement in speed.0 -
Yes so you're basically leaning towards more money spent for diminishing returns in performance.Can you explain the water bottle (assuming full) reference as it always confuses me.
Surely you have a full water bottle because you need it, and even if not, how is it related to what wheels (or anything else) that are on the bike?
Why mention rider weight? The bike has to have a rider!
Does that logic not just = Make it heavier, it does not matter?
I reckon that the Zondas will be about 500g lighter than the stock wheels...or about the weight of a full water bottle which is a handy reference for most cyclists, nothing more than that, as in to understand the magical properties of saving 500g, ride a hill with a full water bottle, empty it and see if you will fly up the same hill next time...probably not, IME.
The point about rider weight is that it helps put 500g into context in that obsessing over 500g is pretty much insignificant when it comes to a rider of 80kg. That doesn't mean that trying to save weight is not a good thing...more a case that the savings/benefits, costs and options can be understood before purchase. Hope that makes sense? I am firmly in the "light wheels feel nice" camp but only because they feel nice rather than equate to a breath taking improvement in speed.
For the record guys I am 6ft1 and 72.5kgs haha. From my experience the water bottle would have very little to do with it whether it is full. If weight saving was that much of an issue then just lose 500g as the rider and improve your fitness. That will get you up the hill quicker than a full or empty water bottle.Constantly trying to upgrade my parts.It is a long road ahead as things are so expensive for little gain. n+1 is always the principle in my mind.0 -
Ref the above, a GS with Tiagra/105 is going to be very good, particularly if well setup and well maintained. There is usually no need to upgrade beyond Tiagra (since modern Tiagra can shift very well) but need has little to do with a lot of things. FSA (chainring) can get a few bad comments regarding quality but, as long as it works, again there would be no need to replace.
I am no big fan of the Tektro 540 brakes but, rather than change the brakes, I would just change the pads for something decent like Flashpro or Swisstop. That will make a massive difference for only £20.
Next up, when the tyres are worn after getting some mileage on them, it will be time to go for something a lot nicer/faster (e.g., GPS4000sII) for the spring/summer.
Lastly, the wheels. The blurb only gives the rim details which kind of overlooks the hubs/spokes and the quality of the build. The Mavic rims are OK though and good enough to get anyone going (I did my first 100 mile hilly sportive on a set of CXP22s made up with Tiagra hubs). When spring comes, if you are flush with cash then I would suggest replacing them for something like Zondas and keep the old wheels for winter usage. The Zondas will feel really sprightly...but won't make a massive difference to your climbing as they will shave about one water bottle's worth of weight off the package (which generally includes ~80kg of rider).
Thank you for the reply. I appreciate the info you've provided me.
Is there really not that much in it regarding splashing out on e.g. Ultegra over sticking with the stock bike parts?
The one thing I have found though with road bikes is getting into the drops - very unnatural for me in that position but I guess I'll get used to it the more I ride.Constantly trying to upgrade my parts.It is a long road ahead as things are so expensive for little gain. n+1 is always the principle in my mind.0 -
Can you explain the water bottle (assuming full) reference as it always confuses me.
Surely you have a full water bottle because you need it, and even if not, how is it related to what wheels (or anything else) that are on the bike?
Why mention rider weight? The bike has to have a rider!
Does that logic not just = Make it heavier, it does not matter?
I reckon that the Zondas will be about 500g lighter than the stock wheels...or about the weight of a full water bottle which is a handy reference for most cyclists, nothing more than that, as in to understand the magical properties of saving 500g, ride a hill with a full water bottle, empty it and see if you will fly up the same hill next time...probably not, IME.
The point about rider weight is that it helps put 500g into context in that obsessing over 500g is pretty much insignificant when it comes to a rider of 80kg. That doesn't mean that trying to save weight is not a good thing...more a case that the savings/benefits, costs and options can be understood before purchase. Hope that makes sense? I am firmly in the "light wheels feel nice" camp but only because they feel nice rather than equate to a breath taking improvement in speed.
Does anyone actually think you can get a 'breath taking' improvement in speed?
Why do people poo poo'ing lightness always use such extreme terms and assume people are even after these exaggerated levels of performance?
Surely its great to have some improvement in speed plus a lot more enjoyment?
I think a better test would be to add 3-400g (as percentage wise it would be about right) to each wheel, go up a hill, and see how that feels.
If it feels no different then take the weights off and keep current wheels.
If it feels cr4p then you will have a good idea of how the significanty lighter wheels will feel.
Rider weight and bike weight should be kept separate IMO
6lb off a bike is very different to 6lb off the rider.
I could lose a stone in weight and my 21'ish lb bike would still not come even close to feeling like my 16 lb one.
Being as fit/light as you can, and having as nice/light a bike as you can would seem to be the best strategy to me.0 -
Just to get back on track chaps
I've also been looking at a Bianchi Vertigo 2015 105 on sale at Evans. It's a lovely bike and I think it's either that or the Cannondale. And as the Bianchi has a 11/28 cassette compared to 12/32 on the Synapse - and I'm a gent of advanced years who needs all the help he can get - the advice I'm getting is to go for the Cannondale. 0
