RockShox Reba Soloair problem
JGTR
Posts: 1,404
Hi, I have a problem (I think?) with my 2013 Rockshox Reba RL29 Soloair on my Specialized Camber 29er.
If I set them up with 25% sag then I can only put in 50/60 psi and they are really sloppy and bottom out all the time.
If I put in around 100 psi (correct for my weight) then they don't bottom out when riding but I get pretty much zero sag and they dont compress until I put some weight behind them, so although they absorb the big stuff they stay pretty solid over the smaller stuff.
I have Rebas on my 26" and I've always been very happy with them. I've read about leakage into the negative air chambers and adding bottomless tokens to reduce the volume of the airsprung but with my limited knowledge with forks it's all Chinese to me :x
How much would I be looking for a rebuild/service????
Thanks
If I set them up with 25% sag then I can only put in 50/60 psi and they are really sloppy and bottom out all the time.
If I put in around 100 psi (correct for my weight) then they don't bottom out when riding but I get pretty much zero sag and they dont compress until I put some weight behind them, so although they absorb the big stuff they stay pretty solid over the smaller stuff.
I have Rebas on my 26" and I've always been very happy with them. I've read about leakage into the negative air chambers and adding bottomless tokens to reduce the volume of the airsprung but with my limited knowledge with forks it's all Chinese to me :x
How much would I be looking for a rebuild/service????
Thanks
0
Comments
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More info needed.
Have they just started doing this?
Did they work fine before?
What is the travel?
If short try 15-20% sag.I don't do smileys.
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Parktools0 -
More info needed.
Have they just started doing this?
Did they work fine before?
What is the travel?
If short try 15-20% sag.
110mm travel, have always been like it I think, just thought it was normal but now thinking it's not, I've always ran them so that I used all the travel on ride without bottoming out all the time, tried different sag - problem is I can't really get any sag without running ridiculously low pressure which then make them unrideable. Seems like there is too much resistance on the initial 30mm or so travel so forks feel hard all the time until I hit a big bump then they work. They still absorb the big hits fine but don't react to the smaller stuff.
When I try to compress them statically it takes a lot of effort to overcome the initial resistance????0 -
More info needed.
Have they just started doing this?
Did they work fine before?
What is the travel?
If short try 15-20% sag.
110mm travel, have always been like it I think, just thought it was normal but now thinking it's not, I've always ran them so that I used all the travel on ride without bottoming out all the time, tried different sag - problem is I can't really get any sag without running ridiculously low pressure which then make them unrideable. Seems like there is too much resistance on the initial 30mm or so travel so forks feel hard all the time until I hit a big bump then they work. They still absorb the big hits fine but don't react to the smaller stuff.
When I try to compress them statically it takes a lot of effort to overcome the initial resistance????
I bought some 110mm Rebas SH for my hardtail and was very surprised how quickly they went through there travel, first time I have ever really bottomed a fork out hard, bit of searching on the net and found out about replacing the air top cap with one that takes bottomless tokens ( some top caps already have the treading for the tokens ) on the RS web site they say that the 110mm 29er should have 1 token as std, mine had none and no threaded top cap so got one off Bike Discounts DE ( http://www.bike-discount.de/en/praesenz/search?q=rockshox+bottomless+tokens ) fitted it a real big difference, from memory I think you can fit upto 3-4 tokens, my forks are 2014 RS 110mm Reba's.0 -
1: In what position are you when measure the sag, ( you should be in the "attack" position standing up on the pedals elbows bent blah blah)
2: Have the forks ever been serviced, should be a regular affair full service once a year generally with regular seal check and lubrication.
3. Ignore the guides for the most part, set the pressure to get appropriate sag and then move up and down from there to get the full travel maybe once or so when riding the hardest steepest bit of gnar that you ride..0 -
1: In what position are you when measure the sag, ( you should be in the "attack" position standing up on the pedals elbows bent blah blah)
2: Have the forks ever been serviced, should be a regular affair full service once a year generally with regular seal check and lubrication.
3. Ignore the guides for the most part, set the pressure to get appropriate sag and then move up and down from there to get the full travel maybe once or so when riding the hardest steepest bit of gnar that you ride..
1. Yep usual position, in fact tried it most ways.
2. Not been serviced yet but only used it twice first year I had it and only really started using it properly this year, bought early 2014. Has been like this for ages.
3. I use the guides as exactly that, just a guide then fine tune it by riding, have managed to get my rear shock perfect for me and no problems in my other bike, never had any problems before, just can't get any sag at all on this fork unless I run it with really low pressured which means it then bottoms out just going down a kerb!0 -
More info needed.
Have they just started doing this?
Did they work fine before?
What is the travel?
If short try 15-20% sag.
110mm travel, have always been like it I think, just thought it was normal but now thinking it's not, I've always ran them so that I used all the travel on ride without bottoming out all the time, tried different sag - problem is I can't really get any sag without running ridiculously low pressure which then make them unrideable. Seems like there is too much resistance on the initial 30mm or so travel so forks feel hard all the time until I hit a big bump then they work. They still absorb the big hits fine but don't react to the smaller stuff.
When I try to compress them statically it takes a lot of effort to overcome the initial resistance????
I bought some 110mm Rebas SH for my hardtail and was very surprised how quickly they went through there travel, first time I have ever really bottomed a fork out hard, bit of searching on the net and found out about replacing the air top cap with one that takes bottomless tokens ( some top caps already have the treading for the tokens ) on the RS web site they say that the 110mm 29er should have 1 token as std, mine had none and no threaded top cap so got one off Bike Discounts DE ( http://www.bike-discount.de/en/praesenz/search?q=rockshox+bottomless+tokens ) fitted it a real big difference, from memory I think you can fit upto 3-4 tokens, my forks are 2014 RS 110mm Reba's.
Cheers, I'll have a look, may strip fork down and see what's going on, I have read something similar, maybe just need to do more research.0 -
More info needed.
Have they just started doing this?
Did they work fine before?
What is the travel?
If short try 15-20% sag.
110mm travel, have always been like it I think, just thought it was normal but now thinking it's not, I've always ran them so that I used all the travel on ride without bottoming out all the time, tried different sag - problem is I can't really get any sag without running ridiculously low pressure which then make them unrideable. Seems like there is too much resistance on the initial 30mm or so travel so forks feel hard all the time until I hit a big bump then they work. They still absorb the big hits fine but don't react to the smaller stuff.
When I try to compress them statically it takes a lot of effort to overcome the initial resistance????
I bought some 110mm Rebas SH for my hardtail and was very surprised how quickly they went through there travel, first time I have ever really bottomed a fork out hard, bit of searching on the net and found out about replacing the air top cap with one that takes bottomless tokens ( some top caps already have the treading for the tokens ) on the RS web site they say that the 110mm 29er should have 1 token as std, mine had none and no threaded top cap so got one off Bike Discounts DE ( http://www.bike-discount.de/en/praesenz/search?q=rockshox+bottomless+tokens ) fitted it a real big difference, from memory I think you can fit upto 3-4 tokens, my forks are 2014 RS 110mm Reba's.
Cheers, I'll have a look, may strip fork down and see what's going on, I have read something similar, maybe just need to do more research.
Just let all the air out and undo with a 24mm socket.0 -
Sounds like you have a lot of 'stiction' in the bushes which is giving you a false amount of sag for the pressure, you should be running somewhere about 130+psi.Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0
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Sounds like the air transfer dimple in the air side leg could be blocked. This will prevent the negative air chamber filling with air to the correct pressure and will cause it to be harsh.0
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Had a play today, did the cable tie down the fork seal trick and did manage to release a tiny amount of air. Followed some advice about pumping up gradually and cycling the fork. Seems slightly better but need to ride it to be sure.
Currently have 20% sag @ 100psi for 85kg rider.
Still seem to have an issue with "sticion". When sitting on bike to set sag the forks don't move and I have to give it a little rock forward start the compression. Have removed the cap and it's just a standard cap so if I find it bottoms out on a ride too much I may add a token.
They do work just still feel harsh compared to my other Reba dual airs :x
Maybe a rebuild would help? Does anyone know the best place to get a rebuild kit???
Also any links to how Soloairs work so I can get my head around the different parts and how it works?0 -
I'd do a lower leg oil service first, 20 mins and a few cc of fork oil......Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0
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I'd do a lower leg oil service first, 20 mins and a few cc of fork oil......
That's what I was thinking, do you know best place to get seals? Rather ring and speak to someone than just order online so I know I have everything I need
Thanks0 -
You don't need to change seals, but the best place I found when I did my SIDs (same seal) was bike-discount.deCurrently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0
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You don't need to change seals, but the best place I found when I did my SIDs (same seal) was bike-discount.de
Thanks, just googled it and seems basic enough. Is it just the oil I need?? (Manual says replace crush washers and o rings on leg bolts but can I get away with reusing them this time?)
Leave fork in bike or remove it??0 -
You need the seals and foam rings (if you want to change the seals) and the fork oil (15wt) for the lowers.
You can just reuse the lower o-rings and crush washers.
You can do it on the bike but it can be fiddly trying to get the lowers back on in the frame, I find it easier to juggle the stanchions down than the lowers up, even more so if you go for the later low friction seals which are are a smaller opening.Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0 -
Don't use 15wt oil, use the new 0wt-30 pike oil.0
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Don't use 15wt oil, use the new 0wt-30 pike oil.
Why? Everywhere I've read states use 15 wt oil, even the SRAM website0 -
In theory it works better over a wider temperature range, in reality in the UK, it may be a slight benefit when it's pretty cold.....Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0
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Cheers, think I'm going to do a lower leg service and strip and service the airsprung, I'll have a look at the air transfer port and make sure it's clear, I'll take some pictures as it seems to be a common problem. Will update thread when I'm done
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Thanks for the help guys, esp Rookie
Did a lower leg service and stripped and cleaned the airsprung, used TFTuned low friction seals and service kit. Still not getting much sag but sticion gone and forks feeling very "plush".
Running approx 100psi and ride great!0 -
Good news, very satisfying DIYing as well!Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0
