Single Speed wheelset under 2kg ??
afcbian
Posts: 424
Just building a single speed road bike and want a set of sub 2kg wheels which is proving surprisingly hard to find.
Bought a set of Shroom 30mm from Wiggle for £109, listed at 1843g but in fact turn out to be 2300g
120mm rear hubs and need to be black with a machined brake surface
I figure a budget of £150-200 should be OK but cant seem to find what I am after
I use the bike for 20 mile rides all year round as opposed to commuting so they dont need to be bombproof pot hole crushers !
I searched on BR but not quite found the silver bullet I was looking for
Thanks
Bought a set of Shroom 30mm from Wiggle for £109, listed at 1843g but in fact turn out to be 2300g
120mm rear hubs and need to be black with a machined brake surface
I figure a budget of £150-200 should be OK but cant seem to find what I am after
I use the bike for 20 mile rides all year round as opposed to commuting so they dont need to be bombproof pot hole crushers !
I searched on BR but not quite found the silver bullet I was looking for
Thanks
I ride therefore I am
0
Comments
-
Try googling "V-sprint". Think these were recommended over on the Commuting Chat thread?Titus Silk Road Ti rigid 29er - Scott Solace 10 disc - Kinesis Crosslight Pro6 disc - Scott CR1 SL - Pinnacle Arkose X 650b - Pinnacle Arkose singlespeed - Specialized Singlecross...& an Ernie Ball Musicman Stingray 4 string...0
-
You might be better off paying a bit more and get some wheels built for you with lightweight road rims. A lot of road ready fixed/ss wheels just aren't that light.0
-
In the absence of dish, SS wheels can be made extremely light, using inexpensive Sapim Laser/DT revs spokes front and rear and light rims, as stiffness of the rim in a wheel with no dish is not a concern.
I'm not on the ball with prices anymore, but I am confident you should be able to get something around 1.5-1.6 Kg for 200 quid or soleft the forum March 20230 -
Cheers guysI ride therefore I am0
-
The lightest cheap rims you could use are the Kinlin XR200. Narrow and 20mm deep 385g but for a SS they are fine.
Sapim laser spokes and alloy nipples will be about £1 each maybe a bit less. 5g for each spoke and nipple.
SS speed hubs are about 500g/pair. Novatec will do here. Cheap.
Weight 1.6kg for a 32 spoker and cost less than £200 or a bit less depending of deals you fine.
Pretty easy really if you are handy with a spoke key.http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.0 -
The lightest cheap rims you could use are the Kinlin XR200. Narrow and 20mm deep 385g but for a SS they are fine.
Sapim laser spokes and alloy nipples will be about £1 each maybe a bit less. 5g for each spoke and nipple.
SS speed hubs are about 500g/pair. Novatec will do here. Cheap.
Weight 1.6kg for a 32 spoker and cost less than £200 or a bit less depending of deals you fine.
Pretty easy really if you are handy with a spoke key.
Thanks for that, sounds like a planI ride therefore I am0 -
PX AL30s come in at less than 2kg...0
-
If you stretch uour budget there are light ss hubs from ridea. Polish mack hubs are also light but are hudget busting.http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.0
-
If you stretch uour budget there are light ss hubs from ridea. Polish mack hubs are also light but are hudget busting.
ThanksI ride therefore I am0 -
Navigator Street £140 is listed as 2kg
I use a Halo Aerorage rear wheel which is 1042g. You don't need a 'wheelset' as any front wheel will do - I use a Shimano R-500 so together they're sub 2kg.0 -
Are light wheels important on a fixie ? I have a Giant Bowery(looking to order decent road bike soon!) and the gearing 48/16 means I can't climb anything more than a minor bump on it anyway. I thought light wheels were to help climbing ?
The wheels on this bike are extremely robust and , I would guess, pretty heavy, but I don't feel that they hold the bike back on flat roads.0 -
Navigator Street £140 is listed as 2kg
I use a Halo Aerorage rear wheel which is 1042g. You don't need a 'wheelset' as any front wheel will do - I use a Shimano R-500 so together they're sub 2kg.
These were on offer at Dolan before Xmas for £99 delivered, but they quoted me 2.3kg weight.I ride therefore I am0 -
Are light wheels important on a fixie ? I have a Giant Bowery(looking to order decent road bike soon!) and the gearing 48/16 means I can't climb anything more than a minor bump on it anyway. I thought light wheels were to help climbing ?
The wheels on this bike are extremely robust and , I would guess, pretty heavy, but I don't feel that they hold the bike back on flat roads.
Just as on any bike, light wheels feel great (as long as they are still stiff), especially when climbing.
Your bike has a 79inch gear, it is too tall for most people to climb anything on.
I ride a 67inch gear and will climb most things up to around 15%, most of the time.
I have no idea what my wheels weigh overall, but they are reasonably light (hand built by me with TB14 rims, VO fixed/fixed rear hub, Dura Ace front hub and I would have to look which spokes I used. 28/32 setup) especially compared to an old pair of Planet X wheels I had previously with weinmann dp18 rims at nearly 700g each.0 -
Fixed or freewheel?
If freewheel, then any wheels with a single cog on the back. If fixed, then above.Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am
De Sisti wrote:
This is one of the silliest threads I've come across.
Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honoursmithy21 wrote:
He's right you know.0 -
Fixed or freewheel?
If freewheel, then any wheels with a single cog on the back. If fixed, then above.
You are very wrong. Both SS and Fixed frames have 120 mm rear spacing, they are the same thing... how are you going to force a 130 mm wide rear hub in that?left the forum March 20230 -
By using the power of Odin's beard (or my arms, depending ion which I have to hand in the garage) to very slightly pull the rear triangle open and pop in the wheel, as per people have been doing when fitting modern wheels to older frames and my Peugeot Premiere that wears carbon 80s.
HTHPostby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am
De Sisti wrote:
This is one of the silliest threads I've come across.
Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honoursmithy21 wrote:
He's right you know.0 -
By using the power of Odin's beard (or my arms, depending ion which I have to hand in the garage) to very slightly pull the rear triangle open and pop in the wheel, as per people have been doing when fitting modern wheels to older frames and my Peugeot Premiere that wears carbon 80s.
HTH
That was 130 to 126, which is doable, just... 130 into 120 is a bit harder and the result can be a lot nastier. The QR won't hold the wheel in place, as the dropouts will be bent quite a lot.
I think you are talking nonsense in the specific caseleft the forum March 20230 -
I won't be letting Matthewfelle near any of my bikes with skills like that. 120mm to 130mm is something I have refused to do for customers before and will do again.http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.0
-
Are light wheels important on a fixie ? I have a Giant Bowery(looking to order decent road bike soon!) and the gearing 48/16 means I can't climb anything more than a minor bump on it anyway. I thought light wheels were to help climbing ?
The wheels on this bike are extremely robust and , I would guess, pretty heavy, but I don't feel that they hold the bike back on flat roads.
Just as on any bike, light wheels feel great (as long as they are still stiff), especially when climbing.
Your bike has a 79inch gear, it is too tall for most people to climb anything on.
I ride a 67inch gear and will climb most things up to around 15%, most of the time.
I have no idea what my wheels weigh overall, but they are reasonably light (hand built by me with TB14 rims, VO fixed/fixed rear hub, Dura Ace front hub and I would have to look which spokes I used. 28/32 setup) especially compared to an old pair of Planet X wheels I had previously with weinmann dp18 rims at nearly 700g each.
Yes it is quite a big gear, but I found that 48/17 span out too often on flat roads. It's a square tapper crank and I toyed with fitting double chainrings at the front, maybe 52/38. I got as far as buying a chain tensioner, a rear mech hanger for horizontal drop outs and I already had a single down tube shifter for the front mech lying around.
Wondering now whether a 1/8 chain would shift, or whether I should go 3/32, which would also mean a new 3/32 rear freewheel. I realise that I need a new, longer, chain either way. It's a really fun bike to ride and though I love it's simplicity, my thinking is that a taller top gear, along with a lower bottom gear would make it that bit more usable.0 -
Are light wheels important on a fixie ? I have a Giant Bowery(looking to order decent road bike soon!) and the gearing 48/16 means I can't climb anything more than a minor bump on it anyway. I thought light wheels were to help climbing ?
The wheels on this bike are extremely robust and , I would guess, pretty heavy, but I don't feel that they hold the bike back on flat roads.
Just as on any bike, light wheels feel great (as long as they are still stiff), especially when climbing.
Your bike has a 79inch gear, it is too tall for most people to climb anything on.
I ride a 67inch gear and will climb most things up to around 15%, most of the time.
I have no idea what my wheels weigh overall, but they are reasonably light (hand built by me with TB14 rims, VO fixed/fixed rear hub, Dura Ace front hub and I would have to look which spokes I used. 28/32 setup) especially compared to an old pair of Planet X wheels I had previously with weinmann dp18 rims at nearly 700g each.
Yes it is quite a big gear, but I found that 48/17 span out too often on flat roads. It's a square tapper crank and I toyed with fitting double chainrings at the front, maybe 52/38. I got as far as buying a chain tensioner, a rear mech hanger for horizontal drop outs and I already had a single down tube shifter for the front mech lying around.
Wondering now whether a 1/8 chain would shift, or whether I should go 3/32, which would also mean a new 3/32 rear freewheel. I realise that I need a new, longer, chain either way. It's a really fun bike to ride and though I love it's simplicity, my thinking is that a taller top gear, along with a lower bottom gear would make it that bit more usable.
It sounds like you really don't want a singlespeed bike - but you can't use a track chain of any size for derailleur gearing; you need a derailleur chain - which would be the same 3/32" size if you're fitting 5-8 speed at the back.0 -
Further to this posting I've had an idea and wanted to know if anyone knows if this is not going to work ?
If i simply buy a brand new set of standard road wheels, say approx 1800g, and then swap out the rear hub and spokes for a single speed hub. As long as the rear wheel is symmetrical it should be OK.
All I need are a 24 hole hub and the right length spokes.
Or am I delusional ??I ride therefore I am0 -
Yes considering with a zenith fixed gear hub 24h a novatec a 291 front 20h and the kinlin rims and sapim laser spokes you will be spending under £150 in parts. So why make this more complicated thannit needs to be.http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.0
-
thecycleclinic wrote:Yes considering with a zenith fixed gear hub 24h a novatec a 291 front 20h and the kinlin rims and sapim laser spokes you will be spending under £150 in parts. So why make this more complicated thannit needs to be.
I struggled to find the kinlin rims in the right hole designationI ride therefore I am0 -
correction the parts would ~£200
I have no trouble finding the XR200 rim. I know where to get them. I dont currently list them though maybe I should.http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.0 -
thecycleclinic wrote:correction the parts would ~£200
I have no trouble finding the XR200 rim. I know where to get them. I dont currently list them though maybe I should.
I did send you an email via your website regards thisI ride therefore I am0
