MTB to road

flashbax80

Hi all, Ive just got my self the Lapierre 2016 Sensium 300 CP road bike.
Decided to give road biking a try after years of MTB.
The size of the frame is XL as I'm 6.4. Will be using the bike to go to and from work 20mile round trip, and looking at this "sportive" bike its what should be good for what I need.
I'm just a little confused as I've got the CP there is also a TP spec, whats the difference?
Gave my Orange P7 to my brother so I can always get back in to it if need be.
Also I've had to go out and buy peddles for it, Never had to do that for MTS's Ive had in the past.
Looking forward to getting in to road biking, will more than likley need some advice as I go on.

meanredspider

CP = compact chainset (ie two cogs up front) TP = triple (3 up front)

I'm sure the CP is the right one for you.

Most road bikes come without useable pedals - that's because there are so many options: they're bound to get it wrong a lot of the time. There's some truth in the for wheels too - road bikes often come with some cheapish wheels. These are perfectly serviceable but people often upgrade.

A 20-mile round trip commute is a good length - enough to make it worth doing but not too far when you're not in the mood or the weather is a bit grim.

flashbax80

Ahh makes sense. Cheers meanredspider.
Will be riding in all weather, got a good thick jersey from decathlon,spare tubes and fingerless gloves.
Put on a bit weight and hoping to burn it off doing work run and living at the foot of the peak district, snake pass and woodhead I've got some good weekend rides I can plan for.
The thin wheels and tires still put me on edge along with brake and gear shifters. I'll get used to it fairly quick I'm hoping.

cyberknight

[url=http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=19769589#p19769589]oxoman[/url] wrote:

Loads of good riding around you then, just get some decent mudguards and lights. 2 rear lights is a good idea in case one fails, I usually do 2 up front for the same reason. Keep the mtb as well, that way you can swing both ways and get the best of both worlds.

+1
You could always add slicks to the MTB and use it as a back up bike just in case the roadie needs any maintenance( thats my excuse )
I have always found multiple thinner layers of clothing work better than one thick layers as you can always take one on/off dependent on whether your to hot /cold etc.
Another thing to think of is mudgaurds as it will keep your ass and feet a lot drier, whats spares will you carry ?
As a minimum i carry
2 inner tubes
tyre levers
multi tool
instant patches
pump ( i also carry a c02 inflator )
The above can be frame mounted but i carry mine in panniers along with a showerproof coat, leggings , rainproof overshoes , work clothes, sarnies .
My commute is the same distance but my route is unlit country lanes at off peak times so i cant rely on a trip to the bike shop if i have a problem.

meanredspider

I don't bother with full mudguards - just a Zefal Swan at the back. If it's wet, I'll be putting on overshoes anyway so a guard on the front is unnecessary unless you're commuting in your day clothes. I find full mudguards more trouble than they're worth - especially transporting the bike.

This is becoming a thread that would be more useful in "Commuting" but, when it comes to lights, I focus on quality rather than quantity - I've never yet had a light fail - but I do use a Light & Motion Vis 360 on my lid because on bumpy country roads, you're more visible over rises in the road and over hedges etc.

A top tip is to keep track of what you wear at various temperatures - for instance, above 10C I can wear mitts and a short sleeve jersey. It makes getting ready in the morning much easier if you take a quick look at the forecast and know you're wearing X, Y and Z on the bike. As above, carry one extra layer (I use a Montane Featherlite jacket) in case you need to stop to fix a flat etc.

Finally, I've found if there's frost on the car, there's a good chance of ice on the country road in patches (certainly here in the Highlands). I'd then switch to the MTB with studded ice tyres.

Anyhow - Commuting Chat will be your source of all knowledge and experience.

flashbax80

Thanks for all the advice. I'll be honest I didn't even think of mud guards, Its the first road bike I've been on for around 25 yrs, When I was a kid we used to call them racers with the metal levers on the down tube.
The bike I've got has the gear shifters in the break levers, not sure how I'll get on with that but hey I'm jumping off a steel frame MTB to a carbon, first time I've rode something so light and fragile looking.
I'll be honest I'm a bit worried I'll break it HAHAH

philwint

I came to road cycling from an Orange Sub5 to a carbon "skinny" frame. And went through the same feelings! Not broken it yet after nearly 3 years

I found I loved the speed and distance you can do on a road bike and the poor MTB hardly gets a look in nowadays!

lakesluddite

I note you say you have fingerless gloves, but can we assume you also have full finger gloves as well? If you're commuting during the winter, you'll need something more than fingerless, as your hands are very susceptible to the windchill, being stuck up the front. A good pair of wind proof gloves are a must, especially as we are due some 'real' winter weather at some point.
Sorry, but you've probably already thought of this, I was just noting what you wrote earlier.

flashbax80

I've got MTB winter gloves and normal full finger gloves so if the weather turns nasty I've got it covered, I hope.
I'm still getting to grips with dropping down to brake and change gear.
And I'm loving being able to get a good pace and then free wheeling for what's seems like miles.
The way the front reacts to every bit of movement has had me nearly hitting a curb, all I did was pull the back of my jersey down.
Can't wait to get summer long hot days for some real long rides.

slowmart

Same journey here from mtb to road.

Looking at the width of the front tyre when your speeding along does take some getting use to but the plus side is the lack of resistance on a pedal stroke. just be aware of detritus at the bottom of hills, usually on the best line through the corner, manhole covers or road markings especially when wet.

I used mtb pedals and shoes for my first season which performed well until I started hitting 60 miles plus which gave my feet hotspots.

The old adage of winter miles, summer smiles comes to mind. Enjoy!