Wheelset Advice
JNWV
Posts: 4
Hi all.
I'm new here so apologies if this is in the wrong place or has already been asked a million times (I get the impression from club mates that it's a bit of a divisive topic).
I'm in the market for a new Wheelset, and to say I'm a bit bewildered by what's on offer is an understatement.
I haven't been riding long but I've totally got the bug for it and I'm looking to kick things up a notch next year and get into some competition. I live in Norfolk, which whilst it certainly isn't mountainous isn't as flat as you'd think, there's a few short (1km) short climbs around but mainly lots of rolling terrain and plenty of wind.
I do most of my riding solo and I enjoy climbing and perform pretty well on my current set up (Campy Zonda's shod with Schwalbe One rubber) and really don't want to compromise that with the new wheels, but I'm looking to make some gains on the flat with something a little more aero.
I'd really appreciate some advice on what to go for. Budget is about £900 and I definitely want to stick to clinchers. Although 99% of my riding is done in Norfolk I do plan to go back to the Alps in the next couple of years so would I be better to avoid Carbon braking surfaces?
Absolutely not in a rush, will be on the singlespeed until spring.
Thanks very much!
I'm new here so apologies if this is in the wrong place or has already been asked a million times (I get the impression from club mates that it's a bit of a divisive topic).
I'm in the market for a new Wheelset, and to say I'm a bit bewildered by what's on offer is an understatement.
I haven't been riding long but I've totally got the bug for it and I'm looking to kick things up a notch next year and get into some competition. I live in Norfolk, which whilst it certainly isn't mountainous isn't as flat as you'd think, there's a few short (1km) short climbs around but mainly lots of rolling terrain and plenty of wind.
I do most of my riding solo and I enjoy climbing and perform pretty well on my current set up (Campy Zonda's shod with Schwalbe One rubber) and really don't want to compromise that with the new wheels, but I'm looking to make some gains on the flat with something a little more aero.
I'd really appreciate some advice on what to go for. Budget is about £900 and I definitely want to stick to clinchers. Although 99% of my riding is done in Norfolk I do plan to go back to the Alps in the next couple of years so would I be better to avoid Carbon braking surfaces?
Absolutely not in a rush, will be on the singlespeed until spring.
Thanks very much!
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Comments
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UTFS
Merry ChristmasI'm sorry you don't believe in miracles0 -
Cheers. Very helpful.0
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Just buy DA C24s and spend the rest on beer...0
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Just buy DA C24s and spend the rest on beer...
This is the answer.0 -
That does sound tempting!0
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Go for 35-50mm carbon clinchers with an alloy brake track. Reliable braking for UK weather and also for the Alps. Full carbon clinchers are rarely any lighter in reality, 100g maybe and the braking is crap. Plus a small risk of melting your wheels or exploding tyres due to heat build up.
Weight advantage with wheels is essentially non existent so buy a nice set of aero rims which will actually make you faster if that is what you seek, not too deep or handling in wind becomes problematic. Ideally a wider rim 23mm plus helps with aerodynamics also and should be more comfortable.
If the 200g extra weight bothers you empty your bladder before you ride or go on a diet for 1 day and you will lose it.0 -
Buy DA C24s, quality, lightweight, but strong wheelset for not stupid money.0
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Buy DA C24s, quality, lightweight, but strong wheelset for not stupid money.
But not aero.0 -
Go for 35-50mm carbon clinchers with an alloy brake track. Reliable braking for UK weather and also for the Alps. Full carbon clinchers are rarely any lighter in reality, 100g maybe and the braking is crap. Plus a small risk of melting your wheels or exploding tyres due to heat build up.
Weight advantage with wheels is essentially non existent so buy a nice set of aero rims which will actually make you faster if that is what you seek, not too deep or handling in wind becomes problematic. Ideally a wider rim 23mm plus helps with aerodynamics also and should be more comfortable.
If the 200g extra weight bothers you empty your bladder before you ride or go on a diet for 1 day and you will lose it.
I descended the twisty side of Monte Grappa this year with Miche SWR carbon clinchers and Swiss Stop Black Prince brake blocks with no problem whatsoever.
There is a misconception about carbon clinchers - usually through experience of cheap chinese rims0 -
Mavic Cosmic Carbone SLE - aero, not hopelessly heavy, exalith (fancy alloy) braking surface, in budget if you shop wisely. Otherwise Cosmic Carbone Pro (ordinary alloy surface), comfortably in budget.
Neither are climbing wheels, per se, but you won't get aero and lightweight for your budget. In fact aero, lightweight and clincher is something of a struggle anyway.0 -
As above, any of the Mavic Cosmic Carbone range as they have either alloy or exilath brake surfaces. Or, might just creep into budget with some of the 10% discount codes going around at the moment - Dura Ace C35s. Very light and fairly aero, read the review on Cycling Tips to get an idea.
Me, I've got a pair of RS81 C50s, same room as Dura Ace C50s but heavier hubs and freehub body. I'll live with the extras 200g for the price I paid (nearly half your budget).0 -
weight on wheels being rotational is worth more than weight on the frame,bars etc so 200g saving would be noticeableGo for 35-50mm carbon clinchers with an alloy brake track. Reliable braking for UK weather and also for the Alps. Full carbon clinchers are rarely any lighter in reality, 100g maybe and the braking is crap. Plus a small risk of melting your wheels or exploding tyres due to heat build up.
Weight advantage with wheels is essentially non existent so buy a nice set of aero rims which will actually make you faster if that is what you seek, not too deep or handling in wind becomes problematic. Ideally a wider rim 23mm plus helps with aerodynamics also and should be more comfortable.
If the 200g extra weight bothers you empty your bladder before you ride or go on a diet for 1 day and you will lose it.0 -
weight on wheels being rotational is worth more than weight on the frame,bars etc so 200g saving would be noticeableGo for 35-50mm carbon clinchers with an alloy brake track. Reliable braking for UK weather and also for the Alps. Full carbon clinchers are rarely any lighter in reality, 100g maybe and the braking is crap. Plus a small risk of melting your wheels or exploding tyres due to heat build up.
Weight advantage with wheels is essentially non existent so buy a nice set of aero rims which will actually make you faster if that is what you seek, not too deep or handling in wind becomes problematic. Ideally a wider rim 23mm plus helps with aerodynamics also and should be more comfortable.
If the 200g extra weight bothers you empty your bladder before you ride or go on a diet for 1 day and you will lose it.
Except that any rational scientific analysis of this that I have ever found proves that is not really the case, it's a cycling myth, the obsession with wheel/rim/rotational weight is a psychological phenomenon more or less. Hard to ditch it though!0 -
Go to Weight Weeenies and search "spin up fast", "sluggish","massive improvement" ,"spin endless", "keep the speed" (heavier keep the speed best....)
Workstand technologists....0 -
Pick wheels based on your needs not on your budget. You can spend £400 and get light stiff alloy clinchers or £900. You will not be faster though.
Braking can be very good on carbon clinchers it depends on the clinchers. Rim overheating won't happen either unless you are braking constantly which won't happen in the u.k. For the alps take a different wheelset.
Rotational weight is no different to static weight in reality follow the maths on this one the rotational effects are really very small. If you like grasping at straws then miming se rotational weight.
Also don't fall into the trap that is to get quicker on the bike your need flashy wheels you don't. You don't need experience site wheels for racing either. Cheap one will be just fine at you will not be at a disadvantage. Cheap wheels are easily replaced if you crash and in races there are a few of those.i build a set for a cat one rider. He raced on these and won, cost £300.http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.0 -
Rim overheating won't happen either unless you are braking constantly which won't happen in the u.k.
I disagree. You only need 20 seconds or so to overheat a rim/disc rotor.... there are plenty of steep descents that might demand that kind of braking in the UK. You have to travel the country more, Malcolm...
I, for one, have booked a cottage in Applecross for a week next summer, so the Bealach Na Ba might get a few ascents...
left the forum March 20230
