My Heel Keeps clipping the chainstay

deejaysee

So i use SPD pedals with 6 degree float cleats, size 10 shoe so all pretty average but my heel clips ever so slightly.
We're talking a couple of millimeters.
I've set the cleats as far back as they go so my shoe is as far forward so i was wondering if its worth trying zero degree cleats to keep my foot straight as i'm obviously pulling my heel in slightly.

I've read you can buy spacers to go on the pedals but they do 23mm or whatever but i don't need that much

Its my right foot btw

fenix

I'd give the cleat a go first and see if that'll straighten things out. It could be that this is the way your body works though so don't throw the old cleat away and be prepared to change back if needs be.

Your foot must be turning in quite a bit to hit the chainstay I'd have thought ?

bompington

You should be able to rotate the cleats on the shoes - do this in the right direction and the shoe will sit with the heel further out, regardless of the float.

deejaysee

^^^^ that was in my thoughts actually....will give it a try
Have just ordered zero float cleats as never really liked the loose feel to 6 degree ones.
See if that can straighten out my wonky foot!!
Hopefully it doesn't give me knee problems as a result

darkhairedlord

try some angled shims under the cleates or in the shoe, these will bring the foot more into line with the bike c/l.

Anonymous

Zero float cleats could end up causing you knee pain.

Try speedplay pedals, they would eliminate the problem as you can keep the float but adjust the heel in to prevent you hitting the chain stay

trailflow

Add another pedal washer between the pedal and crank.

crankycrank

I'm not so sure adjusting your body to fit the bike is the best approach, should be the other way around. If you feel comfortable with your current cleat position and pedals and as mentioned above I would first start by getting some washers http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=pedal+washers&tag=mh0b-20&index=aps&hvadid=3527167070&hvqmt=p&hvbmt=bp&hvdev=c&ref=pd_sl_4legaq2snv_p to fit on the pedal axle to bring your foot out a bit. You may only need a 1.5mm or so spacer to make a big enough difference. Just make sure you're not messing up your comfort on the bike. Moving the cleats rearward on the shoe or turning your foot outward may work but might also make you uncomfortable. Most bike shops will have the axle washers in stock if you want to buy locally.

styxd

Could be all sorts of things. Saddle too high or too low could cause it. Leg length discrepancy could cause it. Cleat position - why have you set them all the way back?
Fixed cleats are probably a bad idea.
A couple of extra pedal washers might give you enough clearance; but they won't actually fix the root cause.

styxd

Some decent arch supports might help fix it FWIW

gmacz

Just stop doing it.
Stop your foot curving in, problem solved.
I used to do this as well,
Cleat in the position of widest stance and concentrate on not doing it.

pilot_pete

[url=http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=19765313#p19765313]deejaysee[/url] wrote:

...I've set the cleats as far back as they go so my shoe is as far forward...

You are thus introducing another problem. The cleat should be positioned so that the ball of your foot is as near as possible over the centreline of the pedal axle. You want your heel in/out adjustment (i.e. the float of the cleat) to be centred around the comfortable range of natural float that your foot describes as you pedal. If the maximal 'heel in' position that you naturally take means your heel fouls the stay, then you need to address this through pedal spindle length adjustment (pedal washers or longer spindles a la Speedplay). If your natural maximal 'heel in' does not mean your heel fouls the stay, then you may get away with rotating the cleat slightly to force the maximal heel in float limit of the cleat to coincide and thus prevent you turning your heel further in to catch the stay.

What you don't want to do is adjust the cleat as above to prevent you from reaching your natural heel in limit as this will be forcing your ankle/ knee/ hip to rotate in an un-natural way and lead to problems. Better to move the pedal further out to allow you to reach your natural limit. Zero float may, or may not work for you for the same reason. I use Speedplay pedals and dial in very little float which works for me...but we are all different.

Once you set the cleat, check on saddle height/ fore and aft etc to ensure correct position as these can all affect the arc you describe whilst pedalling. For saddle height, stop your downgoing pedal at the bottom of the stroke and get an assistant to hold your foot in position (to prevent you dropping or raising your heel). Use a goniometer (or straightened coat hanger cut into two bits and then joined with bolt, washers and nut) to measure the angle of the bend in your knee. Set your improvised goniometer and then read off the angle from an A4 printed off protracter from the internet. Aim for about 35 degrees +/- a few degrees.

Set the saddle fore and aft by using a plumb bob (or heavy nut on a bit of string) to drop the line from the dimple just below your kneecap to the pedal spindle when you stop pedalling with the crank arm parallel with the ground at the front of the pedal stroke. If the plumb bob is forward of the centreline of the pedal spindle move the saddle back a bit and try again. If behind, move the saddle forwards. Then re-check your knee angle as in the first step to ensure you still have about 35 degrees. This will get you close to ideal for saddle height and fore/ aft.

Happy crimbo

PP

itboffin

i used to ride 9 degree look pedals which ended in really bad knee pain eventually i tore both ITBs causing me to spend months off the bike, after that i went for a bike fit and found that actually i didnt need more float i needed proper pedal set up, i now use the 4.5 degree cleats and too be fair could easily do 0

no pains no heel strike apart from one trip in the alps this year which was odd