Felt F5C Commuter - Winter Rebuild Questions

1981.

Hi all,

Rebuilding my winter commuter, Felt F5C, have some general questions - thanks in advance for any help/advice

Copper Grease + Bottom Bracket
(Obviously not for bearings etc.) Is it considered general good practice to lightly coat the BB threads with copper grease to aid extraction etc.?

Threaded Barrel Stops
Of course, seized into their lugs on the down-tube, will remove with penetrating oil. Question is, can I replace these with in-line cable adjusters? If yes, what do I use instead going into the barrel stops, just a ferrule (onto next question)?

Ferrules
Are these all standard sizes? ie. If I purchase a bag of x10 from somewhere, are they of standard size? Or is there difference between gear and brake, and metal or plastic (looking for lightest but best performance)

Bearing Grease
Suitable for Wheels, BB, Headset. What do people recommend?

Anti-rattle measures/Frame protection
Trying to find those little bits of rubber/plastic that fit on exposed cables to stop rubbing, plus little bits of protection that fit on the cable to stop it rubbing at head tube etc. Also, seen some on inner-tub valves (anti-rattle). Searched Wiggle, SJS, ChainReaction – nothing, and ideas more than welcome.

Thanks ever-so much for any help in advance.

Cheers,
1981

Matthewfalle

Ciao

1. Yes - slap copper slip all over the b/b area and threads then torque the /b into lace as per manufacturer.
2. Can't see why not. Remover to slap a load of copper slip in there.
3. Gear and brake ar different sizes as the cables are different sizes. I honestly don't think you'll find an iota of difference in weight.
4. You mean doughnuts, as beloved of mtbers. Do a quick Amazon search. For anti frame rub stuff, helicopter tape off the internet, insulting tape or fablon.

1981.

Brilliant, thanks for all the info!

[url=http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=19764585#p19764585]Matthewfalle[/url] wrote:

Ciao

1. Yes - slap copper slip all over the b/b area and threads then torque the /b into lace as per manufacturer.
2. Can't see why not. Remover to slap a load of copper slip in there.
3. Gear and brake ar different sizes as the cables are different sizes. I honestly don't think you'll find an iota of difference in weight.
4. You mean doughnuts, as beloved of mtbers. Do a quick Amazon search. For anti frame rub stuff, helicopter tape off the internet, insulting tape or fablon.

paulbnix

Decathlon sell the small rubber tubes that you can fit on cables.
I have some that are solid so need fitting before you add the cables and some that split around the cable - I think they both came from Decathlon.

lpretro1

You can remove the adjusters on the down tube - there will be no cable slot to sit the cable in. If they are corroded in tehre best to just leave them and fit an additional inline one for front mech - don't need one for rear as there is a barrel adjuster at the mech end.

Matthewfalle

Also remember to plop a blob of copper slip on every bolt - seat clamp, stem, bottle cages, mechs, et, etc - and to tourque in bolts as required- wrench or Ritchey tourque key.

Pop our headset bearings and clean/grease as bearings and races as required.

Any bolts that are shot, just replace with stainless bought new from local tool factor - my local place sells 20 M3 Allen bolts for about £1.75, so it doesn't really cost anything.