Swap brakes to new bike without spilling/bleeding?

YIMan
YIMan Posts: 576
edited January 2016 in MTB workshop & tech
I want to swap my Hope Tech X2 brakes over to my new frame.

Is it feasible to detatch the hoses from the levers, wrap the ends, thread through the new frame and then reattach to the levers on the new bike without spilling a load of oil and having to bleed the brakes?

Comments

  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    Feasible but unlikely.

    Just get a bleed kit from Epic and follow the instructions.
    I don't do smileys.

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  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Feeding it through the frame without losing much is going to be a task!

    Before splitting the system, squeeze the levers to push the pistons out further, then way when you've finished when you push the pistons back they will push any air out back into the reservoir if you are lucky and you may get away with it.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • YIMan
    YIMan Posts: 576
    Cheers. I was thinking of taping up the ends to seal them from spillage.
  • FishFish
    FishFish Posts: 2,152
    Why not keep the levers then? Save all the hassle if you transfer the entire system.
    ...take your pickelf on your holibobs.... :D

    jeez :roll:
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    , thread through the new frame
    Can't see levers feeding through the frame?
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • YIMan
    YIMan Posts: 576
    , thread through the new frame
    Can't see levers feeding through the frame?

    They will if I use a hole-saw :D
  • YIMan
    YIMan Posts: 576
    So for anyone's future reference, it was easier than I thought.

    I disconnected the hose at the brake lever (after applying the brake with the wheel off to close the callipers together and force oil "down" the system) and removed the hose end-fittings. Despite quite a lot of tugging and manipulating (particularly during the black art of rethreading the hose through the swing-arm of the new frame) I barely spilled a drop and on reconnection the brakes work as well as before (so far!), without bleeding.

    Basically the hose end fittings take up a space in the end of the hose so when they're removed, the oil itself is a little further down the hose and the hose is tough enough that it doesn't get squeeze to force the oil out.