Which RIMS - Mavic Open Pro or DT Swiss RR440
designman
Posts: 405
Just in the process of building a pair of wheels to use during winter training and also to be used during summer, the hubs which I have are Dura Ace 9000 28hole, but unsure which rims would be a better build, I would like to build the wheels up with either "Mavic Open Pro Rims" or DT Swiss RR440 Rims" - Which rims would be the best for strength and wear, remembering I shall be using these wheels during winter months, so road salt and other aspects of winter will get onto these rims.
Thanks in advance for the help.
Thanks in advance for the help.
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Comments
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I have Open Pros and they are very good rims...but they just seem a tad dated when compared to some of the other options out there now like H+ Son Archetypes. Archetypes offer a wider profile, come in 28H, have a wear indicator (useful for winter riding rims), are available in silver or black and can be had for less than £50 if you shop around.
Chatting around with a few riders they appear to be the new benchmark and will be on my shortlist when the OPs need replacing.0 -
Ambrosio excellight are another great alternative. They seem to wear slower than Dt or Open pro. I've got 1 excellight front wheel with 25,000 miles on it, and it's still got plenty of life left.
In my experience the Ambrosio's can handle a higher tension than open pro without stress cracking the drive side eyelets.0 -
Open Pro's were once a kind of standard, but today they're just a fossile from the past.
Quality isn't up to date anymore too. Mavic only offers them because a lot of people don't know there is better and cheaper.
A couple of better and cheaper options:
H + Son Archetype
Kinlin XC279
DT Swiss R460
I even would prefer the dirt cheap Alexrims AT490 a better option then Open Pro's ....0 -
Actually the Kinlin XC279 is outdated as well.
Kinlin are making the best rims at the moment.
XR22t 22mm deep 24mm wide 450g and now available in offset drilling
XR31t 31mm deep 24mm wide 490g and available in offset drilling
The other rims of note are
DT Swiss RR440 20mm deep 21mm wide and 450g available in offset drilling
H plus Son archetype 25mm deep 23mm wide - the one thing going for it is its very thick spoke nipple bed suitable for very heavy riders.
HED Belgium+ 25mm wide 25mm deep expensive though but very well made
Pacenti SL23 v2- very light but for heavier riders possibly too light as flex might be an issue.
DT Swis R460 not a bad option 23mm wide 23mm deep 480g but its only problem is the XR22t exists in off set drilling for the same money.
Open Pro and amboriso are still making narrow rims which is a shame.
really Kinlin have got the best rim offering at the moment and add offset drilling to it an you have a winner.http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.0 -
DT Swiss R460 rims are just over £25.33p each here (euro to pounds conversion) available in 24h and 28h.
http://www.bike24.com/p2123285.html0 -
Actually the Kinlin XC279 is outdated as well.
Kinlin are making the best rims at the moment.
XR22t 22mm deep 24mm wide 450g and now available in offset drilling
XR31t 31mm deep 24mm wide 490g and available in offset drilling
CUT
really Kinlin have got the best rim offering at the moment and add offset drilling to it an you have a winner.
What is supposed to be offset drilling in this context, asymmetric or 2:1 ?0 -
The Archetype seems to wear very quickly, especially the one I bought more recently. I have just built some SL23s and the braking is terrible. Maybe they take a long time to wear in.Pegoretti
Colnago
Cervelo
Campagnolo0 -
H Son Plus are the new standard for sure. Bearing in most people that buy handbuilt want to use clincher tyres they have the big advantage that they are easy to fit clincher tyres to, I'd hazard a guess that most of the other newer rims that are tubeless compat are somewhere between annoyingly difficult and tyre lever snappingly impossible to fit clinchers to.0
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H Son Plus are the new standard for sure. Bearing in most people that buy handbuilt want to use clincher tyres they have the big advantage that they are easy to fit clincher tyres to, I'd hazard a guess that most of the other newer rims that are tubeless compat are somewhere between annoyingly difficult and tyre lever snappingly impossible to fit clinchers to.
Certainly a point to consider.
I have tubeless ready DT R460's and Alexrims AT490, both easy with tyres, don't even need levers for taking off the tyre.0 -
Actually the Kinlin XC279 is outdated as well.
Kinlin are making the best rims at the moment.
XR22t 22mm deep 24mm wide 450g and now available in offset drilling
XR31t 31mm deep 24mm wide 490g and available in offset drilling
The other rims of note are
DT Swiss RR440 20mm deep 21mm wide and 450g available in offset drilling
H plus Son archetype 25mm deep 23mm wide - the one thing going for it is its very thick spoke nipple bed suitable for very heavy riders.
HED Belgium+ 25mm wide 25mm deep expensive though but very well made
Pacenti SL23 v2- very light but for heavier riders possibly too light as flex might be an issue.
DT Swis R460 not a bad option 23mm wide 23mm deep 480g but its only problem is the XR22t exists in off set drilling for the same money.
Open Pro and amboriso are still making narrow rims which is a shame.
really Kinlin have got the best rim offering at the moment and add offset drilling to it an you have a winner.
I have Excellight rims and can't fault them however would 25mm tyres have any improvements with these narrow rims ? thanks.0 -
I ride Exellights with 25s and they are pretty good, mind you I ride them with Vittoria Open Corsa SC, which are wonderful tyres. Lovely climbing wheels IMO (mine are built with some lovely old Campag Record hubs and DT Swiss Competition spokes).0
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As discussed many time before narrow shallow rims work O.K they stay round and straight in a wheel but the ride qualilty when moving to wider rim it is just better as your tyres get wider and the different shape means a 25mm tyre on narrow rim and the same on wider one is simply another incremental improvement.
If you have to re-rim then go wide. Also on archetype wearing out fast maybe that has to with the increased rainfall over the last couple of years. Machined sidewall rims all wear at a similar rate if ridden in the same conditions and the conditions over the last couple of years have been pretty poor.
offset is aysmmetric not 2:1 that is something completely different and 2:1 lacing does not require a special rim it requires a special hub.http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.0 -
VAR RP42500 tyres levers make easy work of tight tyres. also anyone remember the Mavic MA40. some tyres were a right pig to get onto these things. everyone thinks tight tyre rim combo's are something new. It is as old as rims and tyres in fact.http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.0
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Thanks for the help guys, the H+ Son Archetype looks like a nice rim to build with, but when these wheels are built, they will be only used during wet, horrible weather as the bike their going on will have mudguards fitted for all season, so I'm a little concerned about the braking surface wearing away quickly, and is the braking surface any good for wet weather.
Are the DT Swiss R460 and RR440 Rims tubeless ready? Might be something to consider going tubeless.0 -
The Archetypes are a good sturdy rim and I'm not sure there is any reason to be concerned about the braking surface wearing away any quicker than on any other, similar rims. The black coating on the brake track does wear away after a few wet rides but that's only superficial and once it's gone they just look like any other rims with a silver brake track.0
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The Archetypes are a good sturdy rim and I'm not sure there is any reason to be concerned about the braking surface wearing away any quicker than on any other, similar rims. ...
I built some wheels with Archetype grey rims early this year.
I measured the rim depth at the time as about 2mm when new.
Now less than 4000 miles later the wear indicator has vanished on the rear wheel.
I re-measured the rim depth and its about 1.2mm.
I do ride all year but avoid rain if I can.
The rim has lasted less than the tyre !!!!
So its all front wheel braking from now0 -
This year has been wet and there has been crap all over the road. that wears rims. Also brake pad choice affect wear rate alot. If you want rims to last use a soft pad like Kool stop salmon. Shimano pads in contrast are quite abrasive and clarks well you might as well use sand paper as a brake pad.
Dont be concerned about the archetype. Those that get short life are using the wrong pads.
I have a set of DT Swiss RR415's that lasted 3000 miles before the front rim is worn through maybe less than that. It was a wet whether bike mostly. If you want a long last rim wait till feb and the Ryde will have there Pulse Sprint out with CCS (tunsgten carbide) coating and those that have used them have found brake track life to be excessive.http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.0 -
This could be true in my case.This year has been wet and there has been crap all over the road. that wears rims. Also brake pad choice affect wear rate alot. If you want rims to last use a soft pad like Kool stop salmon. Shimano pads in contrast are quite abrasive and clarks well you might as well use sand paper as a brake pad.
The wheels spent most of the year on my summer bike that has Swissstop pads on the front and Koolstop Salmon on the rear.
A few weeks ago I moved them to the winter bike and also bought some long drop Ultegra brakes which, of course, have Shimano pads. I wonder if that was the cause of the rim wear?0 -
More important than the pads alone is cleaning rim and pads after the wet rides.0
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Yep that what I implied about it being filthy all year.http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.0
