How to be sure of getting the right size bike?
Gasperoni
Posts: 41
Short story:
I am planning on buying a new Genesis Croix de Fer and want to know if its possible to ensure the correct sizing based on what feels right on a 15 minute ride
Long story:
Like many on here I came back to riding quite late in life and was not sure if it was something I would stick at. The idea was just to get an old entry level road bike and just see how much I rode it before considering something shiny. It also meant I had a better idea after that time of what sort of riding I enjoy most, and so what bike would suit.
I went to a local bike store and tried out a couple of Trek road bikes, one a 54 and one a 56, which both felt fine to me in the 10-15 minutes I had to ride each. The guy whose experience I was utilising suggested I might be a bit cramped on a 54 so 56 seemed to be the way to go. I ended up getting a 2005 Trek 56, which was mostly fine, but I found that after riding for a few hours it was apparent I was putting too much weight on my hands, even after flipping the stem, and rotating the handlebars. It looks like a 56 is just a bit big for me. Now I would like to buy a bike for life and its the CdF. I test rode a 54 and a 56 this summer, and while they were both more comfortable than my Trek (the more relaxed geometry probably helped), the 54 seemed to be best. I prefer the 2016 model, but the problem is they have changed their geometries and sizing scheme, so there is no 54 any more. I intend to try out both the Small and the Medium and the plan is just to go with what feels best. My concern is that I end up buying a size that feels great for a 15 minute ride, but turns out to be the wrong size after several hours riding (and the point of the CdF is to up the amount of time in the saddle on rides). I know it sounds like overkill, but my first bike cost me about £150 and even after a test ride I found I had problems. This one will cost considerably more, so anything anyone can suggest to ease my worries would be greatly appreciated.
I am planning on buying a new Genesis Croix de Fer and want to know if its possible to ensure the correct sizing based on what feels right on a 15 minute ride
Long story:
Like many on here I came back to riding quite late in life and was not sure if it was something I would stick at. The idea was just to get an old entry level road bike and just see how much I rode it before considering something shiny. It also meant I had a better idea after that time of what sort of riding I enjoy most, and so what bike would suit.
I went to a local bike store and tried out a couple of Trek road bikes, one a 54 and one a 56, which both felt fine to me in the 10-15 minutes I had to ride each. The guy whose experience I was utilising suggested I might be a bit cramped on a 54 so 56 seemed to be the way to go. I ended up getting a 2005 Trek 56, which was mostly fine, but I found that after riding for a few hours it was apparent I was putting too much weight on my hands, even after flipping the stem, and rotating the handlebars. It looks like a 56 is just a bit big for me. Now I would like to buy a bike for life and its the CdF. I test rode a 54 and a 56 this summer, and while they were both more comfortable than my Trek (the more relaxed geometry probably helped), the 54 seemed to be best. I prefer the 2016 model, but the problem is they have changed their geometries and sizing scheme, so there is no 54 any more. I intend to try out both the Small and the Medium and the plan is just to go with what feels best. My concern is that I end up buying a size that feels great for a 15 minute ride, but turns out to be the wrong size after several hours riding (and the point of the CdF is to up the amount of time in the saddle on rides). I know it sounds like overkill, but my first bike cost me about £150 and even after a test ride I found I had problems. This one will cost considerably more, so anything anyone can suggest to ease my worries would be greatly appreciated.
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Comments
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Smaller bike would mean higher seatpost to handlebar height.
This means even more weight on the hands.
Give your size etc and the info will flow.0 -
Height 186cm, Inseam 84cm, torso 64cm, shoulders 40.5cm, arm length 65cm (if I measured correctly)
234lbs, not very flexible0 -
You really need to have some idea of the dimensions you're looking for in the bike you want. There are various guides out there that can give you a starting point based on your measurements. I wouldn't expect someone your size to go much smaller than 56cm, though, certainly on a bike like that. I'm an inch shorter than you and my most ridden road bike has a 58cm top tube and 100mm stem. It sounds to me like your saddle might be too far forward.0
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Would the trek be a Trek 1400 or 1500 (or any 1000 series from 2005). If it is the case then it has a very aggressive set up in comparison to the Croix de fer. The reach for the trek would be much greater than the equivalent croix de fer. Your inseam measurement is relatively short for someone who is 186cm, so I would be intrigued to know your saddle height from the centre of the bottom bracket to the top of the saddle for your current bike.
Looking at the geometry for the 2016 Croix de Fer, the stack figures are quite high, thus assuming your inseam is correct the drop from saddle height to bars would not be very much on the medium.
FWIW I own both a trek 1400 from 2005 and a Croix de fer.0 -
Thanks for the responses.
It is a Trek 1000SL and I have the geometry for that and the proposed CdF and understand that they are very different. I'm not sure of the saddle height but I have lowered it a couple of times. I had a 'bike fit' of sorts at my LBS when I first bought the Trek and went with the height they set for all of 2 days. I had to fully extend my calf muscles to reach the bottom of the pedal stroke, so I lowered it. An experienced cyclist friend lowered it a little more on a ride when he noticed how much rotation there was in my hips due to still overreaching, and I have stuck with that since.
I did not include my measurements initially as I thought it might result in well-meaning guesstimates on what should or should not fit, which I do appreciate, but ultimately don't change the fact that I have to try a couple of sizes out. I know the reach on the Medium 2016 is closer to a 2015 54 than a 56 and the stack sizes look completely different due to the changed geometry, but in all honesty I don't have a frame of reference (no pun intended).
What I don't know is whether there is anything I can do on my 15 minute (maybe longer) ride to be confident that I won't end up getting the wrong size again0 -
Your saddle position remains the same on both the S and M frame, you say you are not very flexible so the M frame with the longer HT length may offer a more comfortable riding position, assuming the 561mm TT plus 100mm stem length is not to stretched for you.
As opposed to the S frame with the shorter HT length and 544 TT plus 100mm stem length, which may be a better length, though will have a larger handle bar drop which will offer less vertically adjustment, other than flipping the stem upwards.
Can you try them both out on the LBS turbo trainer before you take them out on the road? I don't think anyone can answer your question as to which is the best for you, won't they let you take them for a longer ride if you leave your CC details with them?0 -
If in doubt go for the smaller size.
You can always work around it with a longer stem, etc. If the bike is to big your pretty much stuffed.0 -
If in doubt go for the smaller size.
You can always work around it with a longer stem, etc. If the bike is to big your pretty much stuffed.
In general that is true. However - you have to be aware that smaller bikes will also have a lower front end so there's a limit as to how high the handlebars can get if you're after an uprightish position. If you're after a more relaxed position it can be worth getting a very slightly bigger frame and fitting a shorter stem.0 -
If you are already unsure on the ideal fit on your present bike then a 15 minute ride trying out a new bike is not going to solve your problem. When you have an idea of the correct fit, then in theory you are looking to replicate that onto a new bike. I only enquired about the saddle height - just to give you an indication of drop height ( saddle to bar drop) from my Croix de fer. Based on your inseam measurement I would guess that your centre of bottom bracket to saddle height to be between 73-74 cm, considering the stack figures for the new Croix de fer are fairly high you would not get a significant drop on either the small or medium.0
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You would do better to listen to 'well-meaning guesstimates' than to rely on 15 minutes riding time. The level of subjectivity in this is very limited.0
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Please don't impute a meaning to my words that is not there. They can only be guesstimates, and they are well-meaning, and I appreciate all assistance. It was not a term of disparagement and I would not want those who have offered their assistance to think so.
Are you really suggesting there is little value in test riding to check which fits best?
@kingrollo - I think that is what I found with my current bike and why I am more likely to err on the smaller side
@markhewitt1978 and @DJ58 - great advice - helps me understand the pro's and cons
@letap - I had a figure of 76cm in my head, but not had the opportunity to check yet. Just to clarify, you think the geometry of the frame means that the saddle to bars drop would not be significant in either the M or S, perhaps less so than on most frames between a M and S?
@DJ58 - a longer ride would be the best way to erase any doubts. Its with Evans, and they take £50 deposit anyway, but they were reluctant on my last test ride, but given that I have decided on the bike and just need to firm up the size they might be more accommodating this time.0 -
Please don't impute a meaning to my words that is not there. They can only be guesstimates, and they are well-meaning, and I appreciate all assistance. It was not a term of disparagement and I would not want those who have offered their assistance to think so.
Are you really suggesting there is little value in test riding to check which fits best?
In so much as the dimensions of your body will give you the dimensions of the bike, yes - it isn't very subjective, hence why generalised fitting systems tend to work for a lot of people. A fit that should work may not feel 'right' over a short test ride, so it's much better to know what you probably need first.0 -
I would think first about the riding position you want. What would you change on your current bike ?0
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I agree with Simon and Kajjal get the fit correct on your bike first. Although the Lemond method is not always correct the saddle height you have suggested aka 76cm is much greater than what the Lemond formula suggests which is circa 74cm - 2cm is significant in terms of saddle height and drop.
This site would give you a starting point on fit:
http://www.competitivecyclist.com/Store/catalog/fitCalculatorBike.jsp
A bike fit session with someone reputable like Adrian Timmis is expensive but likely to get you a dialed in fit.
If you don't want to get a bike fit and would rather buy the bike, then I would recommend a stockist such as cycleclinic on this forum who certainly knows his stuff and would make sure you get a bike that fits.0 -
I agree with Simon and Kajjal get the fit correct on your bike first. Although the Lemond method is not always correct the saddle height you have suggested aka 76cm is much greater than what the Lemond formula suggests which is circa 74cm - 2cm is significant in terms of saddle height and drop.
This site would give you a starting point on fit:
http://www.competitivecyclist.com/Store/catalog/fitCalculatorBike.jsp
A bike fit session with someone reputable like Adrian Timmis is expensive but likely to get you a dialed in fit.
If you don't want to get a bike fit and would rather buy the bike, then I would recommend a stockist such as cycleclinic on this forum who certainly knows his stuff and would make sure you get a bike that fits.
+1 - the sizing methods that LeMond gives in that book are very useful, even getting on 30 years later - and it's a great read. I've tried that competitivecyclist thing as well.0 -
Lots of food for thought there. I tried to book a bike fit at Manchester Velodrome with my current bike but the guy never returned any emails or phone calls on 3 separate occasions so I gave up on the idea. I might just look at the bike fit option again after using that calculator. I had dreamed about getting a bespoke Brian Rourke frame built which would have ensured a good fit, but right now its just a step too far financially. n+1 maybe. I'll check the saddle height tomorrow. Thanks for all the input.0
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Not sure where you intend on buying from, but Evans do a 30 day 'Right Bike Guarantee' offer that means you can try a bike for up to 30 days and get a different bike if you don't get on with it. You just have to not trash it in the meantime!0
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Evans would be my first choice if they can match the best deal, so that is excellent news. I was not aware of that LakesLuddite so thank you so much.
And it turns out my saddle height is actually between 73 and 74, so I'm not sure why 76 was in my head?0 -
Focussing on what fits fine now isn't necessarily going to give you the best longterm result. Assuming you ride more you will improve both fitness, core strength and flexibility. This will enable you to assume a longer lower position than is currently comfortable.......
Given your dimensions I cannot imagine a 54 frame would be big enough - the HT will be too short unless you ride with a huge stack of spacers under vertically angled stem :shock: :shock:FFS! Harden up and grow a pair
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