1x10 advice

swod1

After failing to re setup the front mech on my bike this weekend, I've decided to try out a single narrow wide up front, will save the hassle I've experienced and less things to maintain.

So I've ordered a narrow wide chain ring 34t from superstar for 15 quid this morning as they are on offer today only, anyone know if shimano single chain ring bolts fit these?

Just a couple of things I'm wondering about is

Long cage mech will this work, I will be shortening the chain a little with dropping down from 42t to single 34t.

Rear cassette will my 11-36 work for the time being or do I need to buy the 40t expander, there isn't many hills around locally that I would need larger than 36.

anything else I need to consider or change?

JGTR

I bought a Superstar chain guard that works fine with Shimano bolts, re the rear cassette why not just suck it and see?? All the advice you'll find is just personal opinion.

iwilldoit

Hi.

I borrowed a Orange 5 in Glentress if I remember correctly it had 11-36 on the rear with a 32 on the front and it seemed ok, it was my go on a 1 x 10 there was nothing I couldn't get up.

rockmonkeysc

Don't bother with any guard or chain device.
I would recommend using an OneUp Components Rad Cage to get the top jokey wheel closer to the cassette.

swod1

[url=http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=19756997#p19756997]RockmonkeySC[/url] wrote:

Don't bother with any guard or chain device.
I would recommend using an OneUp Components Rad Cage to get the top jokey wheel closer to the cassette.

I was looking at buying one of them but for the time being, would it still work with a 36t sprocket on the cassette?

I was hoping I could get away with the setup, I have at the minute and adapt it to 1x10.

For the price of the narrow wide chain ring in superstars offer £15 it was a no brain to try out single ring up front as the cost of a new front mech would be even more.

I think the bigger challenge will be getting a good chain line so I can use all the gears on the rear cassette.

poah

used to run a long cage mech with a 1x10 and a 40T expander and had no issues with shifting or setting up mech jocky wheel 4mm cassette so no need for a rad cage etc.

MilesUK

When going to a single chain ring at the front I would always recommend a chain guard if you have hit your chainring in the past as a piece of plastic is cheaper than a frame, chainring or crankset. But if you have had no issues previously with this I would still recommend an upper chain guide piece. The narrow wide chain rings are great but the chain can still come off vertically. So a simple small guide up top will solve any problem/crashes before they happen

The Rookie

Never needed any retention on mine, and I don't even have a clutched mech.

Your 'chain guard' description is badly worded, I've never guarded a chain but I use a bash ring to guard the chainring.....which is what you then say the chain guard is doing.....

kinioo

[url=http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=19758100#p19758100]The Rookie[/url] wrote:

Never needed any retention on mine, and I don't even have a clutched mech.

Your 'chain guard' description is badly worded, I've never guarded a chain but I use a bash ring to guard the chainring.....which is what you then say the chain guard is doing.....

Same with me here.

Done 1 x 10 conversion recently on my Anthem X2.

Got a N/W 34T ring, Shadow mech (no clutch) and no tensioner/chain guide...after 200miles not a single chain drop!

C.

swod1

[url=http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=19757805#p19757805]POAH[/url] wrote:

used to run a long cage mech with a 1x10 and a 40T expander and had no issues with shifting or setting up mech jocky wheel 4mm cassette so no need for a rad cage etc.

I'll try it out and see how it goes because you can buy the smaller inner and outer GS plates for the xt m786 which I'm using from bikediscount.de for a few quid.

.blitz

NWs are really good have got two on non-clutch setups

One is on an ancient long cage 9sp XT and although there's a fair bit of chain movement it doesn't come off. Sometimes you can have too much tension in the drivetrain

RevellRider

[url=http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=19758100#p19758100]The Rookie[/url] wrote:

Never needed any retention on mine, and I don't even have a clutched mech.

I quite often forget the turn my clutch back on after re-fitting my rear wheel. Never dropped my chain once.

swod1

The narrow wide superstar chain ring arrived in the week, rather nice quality and surprised how light it was.

Just need to get some single chain ring bolts and I'm all set to try it out.

Getting a good chainline how do I go about this, is this just simply playing around with position on the crank?

I'm using a triple so thinking it would go on the middle or even on the outer where the 42t was?

cooldad

The middle.

swod1

thanks, I'm looking at chain ring bolts as superstar don't stock them on there site so couldn't order at the same time.

Are alloy chain ring bolts worth using and can anyone recommend some to use?

The Rookie

Alloy are lighter, so unless you need super strength (nope!) get alloy.

Lots of decent options, just find a set!
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SINGLE-Tensile-Alloy-Chainring-Bolts-Set-5-Gold-Red-Black-Blue-Onza-New-/251146042539?var=&hash=item3a79787cab:m:m5dJUQ-qSYdt12R-Q-RM3WQ

swod1

[url=http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=19762411#p19762411]The Rookie[/url] wrote:

Alloy are lighter, so unless you need super strength (nope!) get alloy.

Lots of decent options, just find a set!
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SINGLE-Tensile-Alloy-Chainring-Bolts-Set-5-Gold-Red-Black-Blue-Onza-New-/251146042539?var=&hash=item3a79787cab:m:m5dJUQ-qSYdt12R-Q-RM3WQ

thanks I will have a look, just hope they are a standard size to fit this chain ring I've bought.

I was just thinking to use steel bolts to avoid stripping threads on the softer metals when tightening everything up.

fitting this smaller chain ring size I'll still be able to use the big to big sizing measurement to take some links out of the chain, using the long cage mech shouldn't matter?

its a jump down from 44t to 34t so should be able to take some links out of chain.

The Rookie

They are a standard size, and you won't strip alloy ones unless you behave like a total rock ape!

swod1

I have last night finally got around to converting my bike to 1x10, I waited until the chain and cassette were well worn to start a fresh with new everything.

So fitted the chain ring and new chain/cassette all was fine until I went for a little test ride.

There seems to be a bit of noise on the largest rear gear is this normal due to the angle of chain?

I am thinking to play with the spacers on the drive side, its a 68mm and I have 1, 2.5mm spacer on this side.

I'm using a long cage mech xt m786 and made sure the chain is right size big-big plus 2 links as its a hard tail bike, would I benefit from changing the cage length to the smaller GS size?

I checked and the chain doesn't appear to rub the derailleur cage in this gear, I'm guessing this is just a limitation of running a single front chain ring setup.

cooldad

If the ring is in the middle position, it shouldn't be any different to the previous middle ring.

68mm shell should have 2 spacers on the drive side, 1 on the non drive.

supersonic

I find N/W chainrings make more racket - they have higher teeth (and of course some thicker) which accentuates the noise at angles.

swod1

cooldad wrote:

If the ring is in the middle position, it shouldn't be any different to the previous middle ring.

68mm shell should have 2 spacers on the drive side, 1 on the non drive.

It is in the middle position on 3x chainset and slightly larger at 34t.

I didn't know that, I had the bike shop fit the chainset and face the frame as it originally had an internal threaded BB and moved to external HT2 deore setup.

Since then I've changed the BB many times and just copied what the bike shop did.

Forgot to mention I'm only using a 11-36 cassette and not one of them range extenders.

I'm thinking of ordering the small plates and convert the mech in to a GS model.

cooldad

If the spacers are wrong it's worth fixing them before you start messing with the mech. A small change in chain line can make a significant difference.

The Rookie

supersonic wrote:

I find N/W chainrings make more racket - they have higher teeth (and of course some thicker) which accentuates the noise at angles.

Running 1x9, I only really notice it in the lowest gear I have to say.

swod1

The Rookie wrote:

supersonic wrote:

I find N/W chainrings make more racket - they have higher teeth (and of course some thicker) which accentuates the noise at angles.

Running 1x9, I only really notice it in the lowest gear I have to say.

Yes its more noticeable in the 36 and 32t gears, I thought it might have been due to the long cage mech putting more tension on the chain?

Otherwise I am impressed on how well it works do you even need to bother with the clutch on?

The Rookie

The nature of the spring means there is little difference in chain tension through the sweep of the mech, more likely it's the forward movement of the lower jockey wheel making a steeper angle off the chainwheel on the bottom side to my mind.

As I run 1x9 I don't have a damper (the 'clutch' is actually a friction damper) never dropped a chain.

swod1

The Rookie wrote:

The nature of the spring means there is little difference in chain tension through the sweep of the mech, more likely it's the forward movement of the lower jockey wheel making a steeper angle off the chainwheel on the bottom side to my mind.

As I run 1x9 I don't have a damper (the 'clutch' is actually a friction damper) never dropped a chain.

Thought it was something around the jockey wheels, maybe I need to take a look at them could need some grease in the bearings.

Can you get into the sealed bearings on the xt derailleurs?

The Rookie

I think it's a function of chain angle and not the jockey wheels themselves to be honest.